New Reloader needs help!

Kevin M.

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I have been doing a lot of reading in the past on the subject, so I know some things, but there are always questions that need asking, and I know that you guys are the best bunch to help a new guy out.


First off, let me state my intentions.

I am going to be purchasing the Lee 50th anniversary kit in order to begin reloading 30-06 for my R700 and Garand. I am looking to produce very accurate ammunition, not neccisarily the cheapest stuff. I am also going to be using used brass (Remington UMC 150 Grn) that I have fired out of my rifles, so I will need to do all things relating to resizing the cases as well.


I know that I need to follow the four basic steps of reloading:

STEP 1. Resize and deprime the spent case
STEP 2. Prime the spent case
STEP 3. Charge the case
STEP 4. Seat and crimp a new bullet.



It is here that I run into problems with trying to figure out what I need to get started reloading. Let me know if I am missing anything important, or have redundant items.

Step 1.

1) A case length gauge and shellholder for 30-06

2) Lee Zip Trim

3) Deluxe Rifle Die set. It includes both the Full Length and Collet neck sizing dies, dead length bullet seating die, shell holder, powder dipper and load data.

4) The Cutter, Lock stud, chamfer tool, and lube that comes with the kit.


Step 2.

I assume the 'safety prime' that comes with the kit covers this step, but I am not positive.

Step 3.

I assume the 'perfect powder measure' that comes with the kit covers this step, but I am not positive.

Step 4

1) Deluxe Rifle Die set. The components listed earlier should cover this step... I think. :p



Stuff I have been told would be good to get.

1) Vibratory case cleaner.

2) Digital Calipers

3) Bullet puller.

4) The ABC's of reloading. I intend to get this and several other reloading manuals. (More is better!)

5) A new powder scale for the future, but what is included is enough for me to start learning.

Let me know what you think of this list, wether it would be enough to start reloading or if my list is wrong.


Thanks!
 
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I would suggest a digital caliper. When they are on sale at Can. Tire or Princess auto they are about $ 15.00 .
Make sure that you use the lube when you resize the case. You don't need very much but if you forget it , getting the case out will be " fun ".

Find a good place to reload, take your time, only have on the bench what you are working on at the time & don't get distracted.

Finally, my last suggestion. Check your work, check it again & again.

Have fun.
 
At some point you'll need to trim the cases.You can usually get by with a couple of firings before doing so, might be wise to check case length with a caliper after sizing. Not all the required bits are in the Lee kit..
 
I think an excellent addition to what you are acquiring would be a decent powder scale to make sure of consistent loads. The dipper works fine, but leaves room for a fair bit of variation in charge weights. Regards, Eagleye.
 
Well, you will have a pretty decent book with a broad range of load recipes and data when you get your "anniversary kit". Modern Relaoding is included. The "ABC's of reloading" is fantastic. However, as you continue, several more books are good. Trying to match the best components to the gun is lots of fun. Good luck. Use caution. I have been doing this for 25 years or so and I have never had a significant problem. Concentration is best.
 
I think an excellent addition to what you are acquiring would be a decent powder scale to make sure of consistent loads. The dipper works fine, but leaves room for a fair bit of variation in charge weights. Regards, Eagleye.


his kit comes with a powder measure and a beam scale....both work well enough to get stated


i have the lee kit and the only thing i would reccomend adding is a vibratory tumbler and a case trimmer oh and a bullet puller and a few relading manuals....everyhting else is included to get started
 
"...will need to do all things relating to resizing the cases as well..." Yep. If you're planning on using the same brass in both rifles you'll have to FL resize when loading for one or the other. You can neck size only for the Rem 700, but only using brass fired out of that rifle. The M1 requires full length resizing every time. It's not a bad nor expensive idea to use a separate brand of brass for each rifle.
Stick with IMR4064, IMR4895 or Varget and regular large rifle primers for either rifle. The M1 likes 165 grain hunting bullets or 168 and 175 grain match bullets with any of those powders. A 150 will do though. There are match grade 150's available, but the 168's will be more accurate.
 
You mentioned the ABC's of reloading, and maybe one other manual.
That's OK, to start, but plan on getting more. I have a shelf full of manuals.
Most of the major bullet and powder manufacturers put out really great manuals. Hogdon, has some free ones, for IMR, Hogdon, and Winchester as well, as their online manual, in addition to a printed book. Many of the others also offer both free manuals, printed manuals, and online info. Visit their websites for info, or visit your local gunshop. You really can't get enough info. You will always be learning.
 
first off,will you be reloading a lot of rounds in one sitting or every few days?
if so,do yourself a favour and get a classic turret press.you set all your dies for 1 caliber in a 3 or 4 hole turret and then forget it.to change calibers,simply buy another inexpensive 3 or 4 hole turret. it's a quick and easy job to change a turret for another 1.
the press can be used either manually or semi-progressive.

get a "stamp pad" and lube as well as a tube of lee lube.lube inside the neck as well.

if you reload military brass,the brass is thicker and harder to resize and can result in a case stuck in the die.military brass crimps the primer inplace and needs a few turns of a pocket reamer to allow a new primer to be seated.

a vernier caliper is very important and of course a trimmer for brass.if i remember correctly,the kit includes only 1/2 the stuff you need to trim.one must also buy the cutter for each caliber to trim.

hope this helps...
 
Okie dokie, lots of good information here, and all of it helps!


So from what I understand...

- I do not need a decapping die, as it is included in with the resizing die.

- Digital Calipers would be a good idea for checking the length of the cases after trimming, alongside the case length gauge that I need to get with the kit.

- A slightly better powder scale would be a good idea to keep in mind for the near future, but what is included in the kit is enough to start me in the right direction.

- Vibratory tumbler and bullet pullers are a good idea.

- More reloading books is better.

- Always double and triple check everything you do to avoid a potentially dangerous or embarrasing situation.



What I am still unsure about.

- Is the 'Lee zip trim', Cutter, Lock stud, chamfer tool, all you need to trim the cases, or are there some tools I am missing for the job?

- What on earth is a 'Stamp Pad', and what is it used for?

- What is the difference between a digital caliper and a 'vernier caliper', and what are the advantages of it?


Answers to your questions.

Toyboy - I intend to load probably between 40-60 rounds once a week, so not a tremendous number of rounds per-say, but I will be looking for a progressive or a turret as soon as my factory handgun ammo stash runs low. I also do not intend to reload military brass as of now, because I have never been able to find any of it in Canada.
 
- What on earth is a 'Stamp Pad', and what is it used for?

- What is the difference between a digital caliper and a 'vernier caliper', and what are the advantages of it?

A stamp pad is what used to be used to put ink on for inking date stamps. I can only find pre inked ones So I improvised by taking a felt shoe insole & cutting a square piece. Then you put some lube on & roll the case. This is an easy way to apply lube.

A digital caliper has a digital read out as opposed to a dial & a hand. Just a lot easier to read.
 
A stamp pad is what used to be used to put ink on for inking date stamps. I can only find pre inked ones So I improvised by taking a felt shoe insole & cutting a square piece. Then you put some lube on & roll the case. This is an easy way to apply lube.

I guess I did not even think of a stamp pad in that context. (Somthing to stamp your foot on maybe ;))

Simple yet clever idea. I like it! :)
 
quote:

What I am still unsure about.

- Is the 'Lee zip trim', Cutter, Lock stud, chamfer tool, all you need to trim the cases, or are there some tools I am missing for the job?

- What on earth is a 'Stamp Pad', and what is it used for?

- What is the difference between a digital caliper and a 'vernier caliper', and what are the advantages of it?


Answers to your questions.

Toyboy - I intend to load probably between 40-60 rounds once a week, so not a tremendous number of rounds per-say, but I will be looking for a progressive or a turret as soon as my factory handgun ammo stash runs low. I also do not intend to reload military brass as of now, because I have never been able to find any of it in Canada.


stamp pad is what it is,just that you apply a small amount of liquid lube on pad and roll about 5 cases at a time back and forth(don't forget lee lube w/ qtip inside of neck)

digital caliper,vernier,same thing.crappy tire on sale last week for about $15.00 reg. price about 36.00.

as for the press,start off w/ a turret.i got REAL tired REAL quick w/ my single stage.MUCH quicker on a turret and you can dump powder automatically w/ a pro measure and disks(disks w/ holes in them-in c.c.'s need to convert w/ chart supplied--dumps measured amount when it detects a case(safety feature).
 
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