New Reloader- powders to avoid?

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Walknby

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I'm yet to do my first reload. From talking to experienced reloaders and eavesdropping at the range I understand there are some powders a beginner should avoid. I shoot 9mm and plan to load Campro 147 gr RN FP.

Can anyone offer recommendations for powders to avoid?
 
I think what they're referring to by ones to avoid, are ones that can easily be double charged. For instance, and don't quote me as I haven't been at my bench in a few months, but powders like titegroup can fit twice the charge weight in the case without over flowing where as others may over fill and you'd (hopefully) notice the error. Simply find your case capacity and then divide that by your charge weight. If you can fit twice the charge weight or more, maybe avoid those powders if you lack the attention span.
 
You have to use what the load data recommends for your particular load, usually you have some choices in the selection given in the books, but it is going to be one of them for your load.
 
Some will say to avoid high enery powders cause you can double/triple charge. Since you're gonna be doing pistol rounds, buy a progressive with an automatic powder drop and the chance for a double or triple charge is almost 0%.

If you can't manage not to double or triple charge, then you shouldn't be reloading in the first place.
 
FoxAlpha said:
I think what they're referring to by ones to avoid, are ones that can easily be double charged. For instance, and don't quote me as I haven't been at my bench in a few months, but powders like titegroup can fit twice the charge weight in the case without over flowing where as others may over fill and you'd (hopefully) notice the error. Simply find your case capacity and then divide that by your charge weight. If you can fit twice the charge weight or more, maybe avoid those powders if you lack the attention span.
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So pay attention then. Really simple.
 
Walknby said:
I'm yet to do my first reload. From talking to experienced reloaders and eavesdropping at the range I understand there are some powders a beginner should avoid. I shoot 9mm and plan to load Campro 147 gr RN FP.

Can anyone offer recommendations for powders to avoid?
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FWIW I get really nice results with those Campro 147's and CFE Pistol. Load info on Hodgdon't site.
 
Should be more like what powder to get? I got into HP38/W231 because that what everybody uses that I shoot with. So if I run out I could buy some from them.

Personally It takes longer but. I got a flashlight with a goose neck mounted on the press. I inspect every round, to insure there is a powder charge. If it looks odd, I dump or measure. Before putting on the bullet for seating.
 
OkayShooter said:
Should be more like what powder to get? I got into HP38/W231 because that what everybody uses that I shoot with. So if I run out I could buy some from them.

Personally It takes longer but. I got a flashlight with a goose neck mounted on the press. I inspect every round, to insure there is a powder charge. If it looks odd, I dump or measure. Before putting on the bullet for seating.
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I load lots of titegroup in 9mm on a single stage. Not hard to look at every one to see there isn’t more then one charge.

I have used titegroup in 30-30 as well and let me tell you 4.5gr is hard to see in there. Mostly use unique for light rifle loads but still less then half full cases.

All comes down to paying attention.
 
I agree with the above posts. I will add that the finer granule powders like Bullseye, 231, AA#2, etc. tend to meter a lot more consistently than the coarser grain flake powders like Red Dot, Clays, Unique, etc., especially with very light loads. Powder bridging (where the powder charge stacks up in the powder thrower and does not completely drop into the case giving an undercharge) is more of a problem with coarse grained powder, especially if you are throwing very light loads (4 grains & under). This is a problem with some powder throwers more than others. I was using a Lee Pro Auto disk powder measure with light (around 3.2 gr.) loads of Alliant Promo powder for 9mm and it drove me nuts as I could guarantee that at least 1 or 2 rounds out of 100 would be squibs due to powder bridging in the thrower. It was not a problem with heavier charges but occurred consistently with light loads.
 
Thanks for all of the replies. It's good information. I usually research (that is to say, over think) things until it starts to hurt! I got the impression the concern for a newbie was about some powders that might be extra fast burning. I figured it must be about a possible overcharge having a greater impact than an equivalent overcharge with a slower burning powder.

As far as checking for overcharging I have a flexible mount and light I thought I'd use on the press possibly with a mirror and plan to check every case when I start. The truth is I wouldn't be able to stop myself from checking even if I wanted to.
 
I have noticed that newbie pistol reloaders buy the powder that gets top velocity.

And then they decide to download a bit, because they don't need max velocity to punch paper, so why develop a flinch and beat up the gun?

But powders like H110 or Win 296 do not download well. They have to be shot near max power to burn properly.

I suggest a medium speed powder for newbies, because it can be loaded quite hot and also quite mild. Win 231 is a good choice. I used to suggest IMR 7625, but it is no longer made.

I also suggest you avoid a flake powder like 700X and Unique. These are excellent powders, but do not meter well out of some powder throwers.
 
hometownhero said:
I load lots of titegroup in 9mm on a single stage. Not hard to look at every one to see there isn’t more then one charge.

I have used titegroup in 30-30 as well and let me tell you 4.5gr is hard to see in there. Mostly use unique for light rifle loads but still less then half full cases.

All comes down to paying attention.
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I'm using a turret. I lean forward to check, before sitting the bullet on. It's like my check mark.

But yes comes down to paying attention. Like I marked simply where "on" is on my powder measure to ensure I know its on. I throw a few charges to weigh. Check the primer cup to see if it seated the primer. I shot with 2 guys that had constant squibs. From not checking.
 
Using Titegroup from as low as 2.0gr for 32SWL to 4.7gr in 45ACP. Meters consistency in Hornady powder measure with pistol rotor and micro adjust stem is amazing.
 
Titegroup seems to get lots of hate... but it's the most universal powder out there in my opinion, I use it for most of my campro bullets. CFE Pistol is also useful.

Sorry, I don't have any advice on what to avoid, I've had success with what I've tried without any disappointing purchases to speak of.
 
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