New reloading bench project

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Pinard

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Hi guys, I just bought a house and made myself a dedicated reinforced gun room... wich means I can now make myself a custom built bench to replace my old work bench.

Specs I'm going for:

2 glued .5'' plywood for the top
79'' large x 24 '' deep x 36'' high
supported by 6x 4''x4'' legs
2''x4'' planks all around for added rigidity

all of this bolted to the wall and floor

Top is gonna be two open face cabinets 15'' large x 12'' deep x 24'' tall on each side. The middle s'gonna be topped by a tablet with a neon underneath it.

My question is how do you guys finish the plywood ? Stain it? varnish it ? paint it ?

Any suggestion about my build before I start ? something you regret about yours for doing or not doing ?

Cheers
 
Here is what I did (probably overkill - but rock solid and looks great)

I got a 4 x 8 sheet of oak veneer, cut it into 4 pieces (Home Depot cut it to my specs in store), then glued them together. This gave me roughly a 2' x 4' bench (I didn't need a big bench).

Trimmed it with some board around the edges, stained and clear coated it.

Created a ledge with 2x4's on the wall as a ledge, then created 2 diagonal legs fastened to the bench that go down to the floor.

Also built a shelf that sits on the top out of a 2" x 6" scrap I had from something else (you can see it on the floor).

All in all, cost me about $100 to build.

Bench.jpg


Bench2.jpg
 
For prettiness, I use a laminated 1/2" pine panel on the top of 3/4" plywood.
(removed kent.ca link) - they have 24" x 96" pine laminated boards for shelves.

Pine is soft, and doesn't make a great bench top. Neither does plywood. I have 3/4" plywood underneath the pine panel for my table tops. I then use a diamondcote (diamondkote?) clear product on the top, about 5 or 6 coats with light 600 grit sanding in between. Makes for a rock hard surface, impossible to scratch and is very nicely finished.
For my presses, I have 3/8" metal plates on the top and bottom of the table bolted together where they sit on, and bolt the bench to the floor and back wall of course. It's very, very stable - no movement even on the largest of die sets (Martini Henry .557/450 brass resizing).
I'll eventually post pictures here of my setup, so I can show people what I'm talking about. :)

As for finishing the room itself, I would suggest looking up a product called "abuse resistant drywall". It's super tough, but weighs a tonne. one 4x8 sheet is 102lbs. I did the interior of my gun room with this, with 3/4" plywood behind it attached to the studs. No one is using a box knife to get into my gun room. It's twice the cost of drywall, or more.. I don't recall.. I just bit the bullet and bought it for the added security from would-be thieves and it's awesome fire rating. If there is a fire in the house, the last place I want it is in the reloading room.
It's also great for hanging stuff on the walls, with the plywood behind the drywall, you can screw anywhere - you never have to find a stud. :)
 
Pinard said:
Hi guys, I just bought a house and made myself a dedicated reinforced gun room... wich means I can now make myself a custom built bench to replace my old work bench.

Specs I'm going for:

2 glued .5'' plywood for the top
79'' large x 24 '' deep x 36'' high
supported by 6x 4''x4'' legs
2''x4'' planks all around for added rigidity

all of this bolted to the wall and floor

Top is gonna be two open face cabinets 15'' large x 12'' deep x 24'' tall on each side. The middle s'gonna be topped by a tablet with a neon underneath it.

My question is how do you guys finish the plywood ? Stain it? varnish it ? paint it ?

Any suggestion about my build before I start ? something you regret about yours for doing or not doing ?

Cheers
Click to expand...

If you're going for mass, I'd use two layers of 3/4" plywood for the top.

Try mocking up a smaller table that's 24" deep and 36" high and try standing at it, sitting at it, and doing typical tasks on the table. Get a feel for the depth and height to see if those are right for you. 24" might be a little deep to reach the back of from a sitting position. 36" might be a little tall for sitting work, too. Maybe look at typical kitchen counter dimensions for some ideas and proportions. But whatever dimensions you settle on, be sure to try them out with a mock up first to be sure they fit you. Mock it up with a plywood sheet on some saw horses or even with some carboard boxes.

Solid 4-by-4 legs might twist and crack as they dry. Rather than use 4-by-4's, I'd make the legs from laminated 2-by-4's or maybe 2-by-6's ripped to width so that they make a sqaure leg when laminated together.

How are you mounting those 2-by-4's all around for rigidity? Are they going to be under the plywood or attached to the plywood edges to finish the edge? Just to make it look nice, I'd get some good-on-four-sides finished lumber and put that on the face of the table, rather than the 2-by-4s. Use the 2-by-4s where you won't see them all the time, but maybe use some nice lumber on the visible edge.

For finish, I'd use multiple coats of polyurethane, sanding between coats. I like the look of natural wood so I would not stain it.

I've built several utility cabinet tops using those pine project boards fom Home Depot. Those look really nice when finished with poly and they turn a beautiful colour as they age. You want to protect the edges of those sheets with hardwood, though, as the edges can be fragile. The surface will dent if you are rough with it, but we are all careful with our guns and reloading tools, right?

You'll have to tell us more about how you're going to mount a Dodge Neon under the cabinets. I cannot picture it.
 
MDF said:
If you're going for mass, I'd use two layers of 3/4" plywood for the top.

Try mocking up a smaller table that's 24" deep and 36" high and try standing at it, sitting at it, and doing typical tasks on the table. Get a feel for the depth and height to see if those are right for you. 24" might be a little deep to reach the back of from a sitting position. 36" might be a little tall for sitting work, too. Maybe look at typical kitchen counter dimensions for some ideas and proportions. But whatever dimensions you settle on, be sure to try them out with a mock up first to be sure they fit you. Mock it up with a plywood sheet on some saw horses or even with some carboard boxes.

I used the dimensions from my actual work bench as for depth and height. I been reloading for two years on it and tried both sitting and standing... I prefer standing so these specs are good with me.

Solid 4-by-4 legs might twist and crack as they dry. Rather than use 4-by-4's, I'd make the legs from laminated 2-by-4's or maybe 2-by-6's ripped to width so that they make a sqaure leg when laminated together.

noted

How are you mounting those 2-by-4's all around for rigidity? Are they going to be under the plywood or attached to the plywood edges to finish the edge? Just to make it look nice, I'd get some good-on-four-sides finished lumber and put that on the face of the table, rather than the 2-by-4s. Use the 2-by-4s where you won't see them all the time, but maybe use some nice lumber on the visible edge.

my idea was to put it under the plywood but over the legs. didn't think to preotec the edges tho

For finish, I'd use multiple coats of polyurethane, sanding between coats. I like the look of natural wood so I would not stain it.

I've built several utility cabinet tops using those pine project boards fom Home Depot. Those look really nice when finished with poly and they turn a beautiful colour as they age. You want to protect the edges of those sheets with hardwood, though, as the edges can be fragile. The surface will dent if you are rough with it, but we are all careful with our guns and reloading tools, right?

You'll have to tell us more about how you're going to mount a Dodge Neon under the cabinets. I cannot picture it.

sorry I'm french... neon in french is fluorescent light
Click to expand...

SoylentD said:
For prettiness, I use a laminated 1/2" pine panel on the top of 3/4" plywood.
(removed kent.ca link) - they have 24" x 96" pine laminated boards for shelves.

I don't really care for prettiness, just want to protect the top of the plywood.

Pine is soft, and doesn't make a great bench top. Neither does plywood. I have 3/4" plywood underneath the pine panel for my table tops. I then use a diamondcote (diamondkote?) clear product on the top, about 5 or 6 coats with light 600 grit sanding in between. Makes for a rock hard surface, impossible to scratch and is very nicely finished.

so I put diamondcote clear coat on the top to harden the plywood surface because it's soft or you meant I should use laminated pine panel and then add diamond cote ?

For my presses, I have 3/8" metal plates on the top and bottom of the table bolted together where they sit on, and bolt the bench to the floor and back wall of course. It's very, very stable - no movement even on the largest of die sets (Martini Henry .557/450 brass resizing).
I'll eventually post pictures here of my setup, so I can show people what I'm talking about. :)

I'll look up the metal plates... I don't hate the idea.

As for finishing the room itself, I would suggest looking up a product called "abuse resistant drywall". It's super tough, but weighs a tonne. one 4x8 sheet is 102lbs. I did the interior of my gun room with this, with 3/4" plywood behind it attached to the studs. No one is using a box knife to get into my gun room. It's twice the cost of drywall, or more.. I don't recall.. I just bit the bullet and bought it for the added security from would-be thieves and it's awesome fire rating. If there is a fire in the house, the last place I want it is in the reloading room.
It's also great for hanging stuff on the walls, with the plywood behind the drywall, you can screw anywhere - you never have to find a stud. :)

the room is already finished with standard drywall. It's in the basement so I have three walls that are cement fundations. The wall I added to close the room is drywall, plywood,studs, plywood, drywall. door is solid core and hinges are inside the room.
Click to expand...

text in red is my answer
 
I went a little different with my most recent one and put it in the center of the room, no 'up against the wall' shelf or pegboard. That way, I had a 24" x 58" tabletop with lots of access. Put a bench mount primer on one end, RL550B on the other, and two single stages down one long side with room between for charging and weighing equipment. I presently use the other long edge and surface for an MTM cleaning rack someone gave me as a gift. Cleaning rods and stuff lives there.
 
I'd echo the idea of going with two layers of 3/4 over the 1/2" plywood. No one ever regretted making a more solid bench top. And the cost for the thicker plywood is minimal.

On the bottom layer I'd suggest you drill and countersink a pattern of holes that start two to three inches in from each long edge and then repeat rows and columns at 8 inch centers. That's a lot of screws but it'll ensure that when you glue the layers together that they are well clamped and have no air spaces. And preferably do this on a known very flat surface. Any twists you glue and screw into the top will be there for life. 1 1/4 drywall screws are fine for this job.

If you do not have a good flat area to bond the layers together then build up the support framing so it has some cross pieces and accurately level all parts and pieces then do the laminating step upside down right on the lower framing. Once screwed together flip the top over and screw it into place. Or just leave it to try and afterwards remove the screws.

Stain it if you want but follow it with varnish after the correct drying time for the stain. By itself no stain will stop oil or other liquids from entering the pores in the wood. For that you want a good durable varnish. Frankly I would not stain it a dark color. Too many gun parts are blued and will be hard to find against a dark bench top. Leave it the natural color or at most use a very light stain before you varnish it. Or if you prefer paint use a good urethane floor paint that will resist solvent spills. If you use varnish I recommend the oil based stuff as the water borne varnish seems to be more porous to some solvents than the oil based.
 
...nice pics

...i like oil finishes...no matter how much i swear i'll never ding my reloading bench, it has always happened...oil just reconditions the wood without my thinking i need to revarnish it all...then replace the top when it's bad enough...you may want a thinner piece of ply on top for that...

...if you don't want a ding then use a sheet of steel and screw that to your plywood...i did that in one house...it was a heavy piece of siding i got from a wrecker and cost only a few bucks...had to be cleaned up...i put thin plywood over it when i was laying a gun on it to protect the gun but everything else got done on it and it was GREAT! 4' x 4' piece...

...i'm building another shop here right now...one of the electricians in town was rebuilding his shop and i snagged this when it was literally going down the road to the dump!...

20gemc3.jpg


...it's a 4' x 8' x 1 3/4" laminated maple (bolted)...it took 3 hours of heavy belt sanding to get the gouges under control and it still has a lot of flecked dents in it...but virtually unnoticeable...linseed finish...it was free...

...the stand is made of 2 x 6 rough cut lumber i planed..can't wait to install it and build some shelves for it...

...all the best
 
Pinard said:
I used the dimensions from my actual work bench as for depth and height. I been reloading for two years on it and tried both sitting and standing... I prefer standing so these specs are good with me.
Click to expand...

Good to hear. Worst thing I ever did was build a work table where I thought the dimensions "sounded good". I learned from that to always try out dimensions with a mock up before building.

Pinard said:
my idea was to put it under the plywood but over the legs. didn't think to preotec the edges tho
Click to expand...

I recommend protecting the plywood edges with something. It's only a matter of time until an edge gets caught on something and you chip or tear the veneer.

Pinard said:
sorry I'm french... neon in french is fluorescent light
Click to expand...

Yeah, Neon in English is "cheap little 1990's car from Chrysler".

Will you be using electronic scales for your reloading? Lots of people claim that fluorescent lights can mess with digital scales, especially the more expensive scales.

Another idea for the table top: maybe consider a sheet of 1/4" MDF on top of the plywood. As the top gets beat up or stained you can just remove it and either flip it over to use the other side or replace it. MDF is pretty smooth and may not even need finishing, but it does not look bad with polyurethane on it.

Nice work on the room finishing, by the way. Looks good.
 
I'm in the process of doing the exact same build as you accept with doubled up 3/4" plywood. I'm thinking i will be making it 36" deep though, not sure about height just yet. I'm used to sitting down for reloading but maybe i will make another bench at standing height. I've got 5 presses to mount and have setup up all the time so the bench will wrap around the back of the basement in a u shape. I was also going to use 6x6 posts for the main support on top of 2x6 boards lagged into the basement foundation. Drywall and studs as the backing which i also plan to add lag bolts into the foundation walls 3 feet up. If the bench moves in the slightest while reloading i will shocked.

EDIT: I'm thinking i will top the bench with this then seal it with something. https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.4-feetx8-feetx52mm-revolutionply-plywood.1000811055.html
 
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Yeah I hear y'all about going .75 thick plywood instead of .5 but I have a leftover sheet of .5 and didn't want to bother buying more plywood as I already have some laying around...my tought was that it would be reinforced by the 2x4 under it. I might go and buy one more .5 sheet and make it 1.5 overkill thick top lol.

I'll also cover the edges as I can see how it could become an issue.

thanks for the quick replies guys... I'll post my creation once it's done for the ones that are interested
 
I took a bit of a different approach, my room has laminate flooring and it just used that as the top to my bench and shelves. It looks good, to me anyway, it's durable and if any part should get damaged I can just change out that piece.
 
For mine, 2 2X4's screwed together for the legs to make nominal 4X4's but easier to cut and cheaper, 2 X 4 lower perimeter frame, 2X6 upper perimeter frame. Two layers of 3/4" plywood fastened together (countersunk screwed together). Fibreboard top above the 3/4 plywood, tacked into place, one side is white which makes things easy to spot and is very smooth. The fibreboard is just tacked on so I can replace it easily if and when required, but no damage in the past two years with hundreds of rifle and thousands of handgun rounds reloaded.

Lower shelf plus bench top with 10" center cross 2X4's for support using those stamped steel cradles (I keep my powder in plastic bins with lids, tumber, case prep center there when I'm not using them).

My bench is rather tall - 42" from floor to table top - since I'm over 6'4". I often stand to reload, but for long sessions I have one of those PAL swivel top shop stools. Helps when I'm switching from weighing powder to the press and back again.

Bench top is 3' wide by 36" deep. Steel shoe rack from Costco to hold dies, press parts for the progressive used for handgun, reloading manuals, odds & ends.

The whole bench was only about $65 or $75 in materials - just one sheet of plywood, a few pieces of 8' 2X4, deck screws, and the fibreboard 4' X 4' cut to the bench top size.

I've never been able to make it move.

O.N.G.
 
King_Pin said:
Just an FYI you can get 24x74 x 1 1/8 or 1 1/2" thick countertops from IKEA.
They are more expensive but saves time from laminating 2 pieces together and you have a finished product ready to go.

http://www.ikea.com/ca/en/catalog/categories/departments/kitchen/24264/
Click to expand...

Would have been great but I custom made the specs to cover the entire wall behind it so there would be 5 inches left on one side (or 2.5 inches each side)

But for someone that doesnt care about this fact it's great option
 
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