NEW RELOADING ROOM AND BENCH FIT FOR A KING (or just me )

WestIslandRifle

WestIslandRifle

CGN frequent flyer
Rating - 99.2%
131   1   1
Location
QUEBEKISTAN, Canada
after many weeks of spending nights finishing my basement ( for the wife) i finally had 2 evening to build my self a reloading room and new bench with the help of 2 buddys who are also fellow gunntz and some liquid courage from the folks at coors light, it got completed is a somewhat timely fashion and i use somewhat quite loosely :stirthepot2: its not a large room ( the wife told me to use the cuboard but i was able to steal a 8ftX6ft space in the corner for my project and here are some pics of the room i didnt get any before pics just some half way and done pics please excuse the quality of pics (Iphone 4)

heres where we started these are my two buddy peter and derek
photo7_zps225db4ce.jpg


photo6_zps3c96665b.jpg


photo5_zps84a47850.jpg


photo4_zpsb12c2878.jpg


derek finishing up the last of the wiring
photo3_zps2fd7f484.jpg


photo2_zps2def972f.jpg


the mastercraft table was my old bench and was pretty cramped with having the lee and dillion on it now it will be used for cleaning and other projects of the sort
photo1_zps8f196b4c.jpg


planning on making a shelf to put odds and ends under the table ( media seperator etc....)
photo_zpsca66fa94.jpg


thank you for looking and maybe it might give you ideas for your own room or bench
 
Last edited:
I would like to make a couple of suggestions, you can decide if any of them make sense for you. The first thing I noticed was the position of your case trimmer. If you turn it 90 degrees, so it runs front to the back along the left side of your bench, when you turn the crank the handle will over the floor rather than the bench, and you won't bump your knuckles. Your pic shows your work bench is pretty close, to your loading bench so some adjustments might have to be made so you can comfortably work from the left side.

If you're going to use a crank type powder measure, be sure to mount it high enough that you can put a powder canister under it to catch the left over powder when you're finished; it would benefit from having the drop spout over the floor.

Your scale isn't visible in the pictures, but if you are going to use a balance beam scale, make a shelf for it at eye level, your readings will be more accurate and consistent. If you are using a digital scale there is no need, unless you prefer the idea of keeping your work surface clear.

I see you've reinforced your bench top, which is good, but if you still experience flex in the bench top, I found this could be cured with a piece of flat steel (a cutting edge from a big snow-blower that has evenly spaced square holes cut in it) that runs part way across the front of my bench, and is fastened with carriage bolts. In your case a short length that runs across the bench between each drawer section would be fine. An over lay of GOS three-eighths plywood behind the steel will provide a nice inlayed appearance and smooth work surface. Because drilling holes in hardened steel is difficult, I cut the heads off bolts and welded them to the plate at the proper spacing for mounting my press. A quarter inch piece of plywood acts as a gasket between the two surfaces. I find this plate particularly handy for all sorts of things from checking to see if primers area bit high, to using a kinetic bullet puller.

I put carpet in front of my bench, and that was probably a mistake, except that I stand at my bench rather than sit, so its easier on my back than standing on a hard surface for hours at a time. But when I inevitably drop primers, they are tough to find, and I don't hear them hit the floor. I probably wouldn't hear them land on a hard floor anyway.:rolleyes: The disadvantage of the cement floor is that the primers will probably roll to the most inaccessible spot in your room, and lodge under the wall.

Your overhead lighting looks good by the way, and the importance of good lighting cannot be overemphasized.
 
Boomer said:
I would like to make a couple of suggestions, you can decide if any of them make sense for you. The first thing I noticed was the position of your case trimmer. If you turn it 90 degrees, so it runs front to the back along the left side of your bench, when you turn the crank the handle will over the floor rather than the bench, and you won't bump your knuckles. Your pic shows your work bench is pretty close, to your loading bench so some adjustments might have to be made so you can comfortably work from the left side.

If you're going to use a crank type powder measure, be sure to mount it high enough that you can put a powder canister under it to catch the left over powder when you're finished; it would benefit from having the drop spout over the floor.

Your scale isn't visible in the pictures, but if you are going to use a balance beam scale, make a shelf for it at eye level, your readings will be more accurate and consistent. If you are using a digital scale there is no need, unless you prefer the idea of keeping your work surface clear.

I see you've reinforced your bench top, which is good, but if you still experience flex in the bench top, I found this could be cured with a piece of flat steel (a cutting edge from a big snow-blower that has evenly spaced square holes cut in it) that runs part way across the front of my bench, and is fastened with carriage bolts. In your case a short length that runs across the bench between each drawer section would be fine. An over lay of GOS three-eighths plywood behind the steel will provide a nice inlayed appearance and smooth work surface. Because drilling holes in hardened steel is difficult, I cut the heads off bolts and welded them to the plate at the proper spacing for mounting my press. A quarter inch piece of plywood acts as a gasket between the two surfaces. I find this plate particularly handy for all sorts of things from checking to see if primers area bit high, to using a kinetic bullet puller.

I put carpet in front of my bench, and that was probably a mistake, except that I stand at my bench rather than sit, so its easier on my back than standing on a hard surface for hours at a time. But when I inevitably drop primers, they are tough to find, and I don't hear them hit the floor. I probably wouldn't hear them land on a hard floor anyway.:rolleyes: The disadvantage of the cement floor is that the primers will probably roll to the most inaccessible spot in your room, and lodge under the wall.

Your overhead lighting looks good by the way, and the importance of good lighting cannot be overemphasized.
Click to expand...

Thank you for the input for the case trimmer I had it the way you suggested but I found it kind of ackward for me to use and it's high enough that my knuckles don't hit

The bench is solid as a rock it's reinforced in the rear and it's mounted to the wall . The table top is 2 pieces of 3/4 hardwood sandwich together with PL and 1/2 dowels about 20 of them and some 1" screws just for due cause

I use an electronic scale for my powder I keep it in the powder drawer
I have thought about an electronic powder thrower/scale combo either the rcbs or the Lyman I know the rcbs has a faster warm up time but its also 200$ more so for now I think it will be scooped and trickled

The light is just a 4ft neon centred in the room with a reflected cover
 
Thank you hound I think the room and the rest of the basement has turned out okay considering I know S.F.A about framing plastering or putting up gyproc or anything else along those lines so I will say I'm prou d of my handy work but I don't think I'm going to build any houses anytime soon cheers
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom