New Remington 700P .338 Lapua. New photos on page 5 now.

Kevin M.

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So I took the plunge and I now have a brand new Remington 700P in .338 in the mail to me. :D


This rifle will be shot only from a bench, and only from 100-300 meters, at least for now. (Not a member of the ORA yet)


What are the most important things I need to get for it to have good accuracy from a bench? What would be the first things you would purchase for your 700?


What brand of Base, Rings, Scope, and would you do anything to the Trigger, Stock bedding, etc?


Cheers,

Kevin.
 
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Bedding cause otherwise, it is just making a whole lot of noise.

Muzzle brake and a big effecient one. Top tier recoil pad - factory may be ok if a limbsaver type.

lighten the trigger - orig will suffice for now but timney and jewell are nice upgrades.

Bases - I would go steel for this level of kaboom - Burris XTB is a great set and well priced.

Burris Sig ZEE ring w/ inserts - holds well and gives you options to shim down the road cause 300yds is pretty much a chip shot for this boomer.

good front and rear rests with a properly fitting protektor bag - this rifle is going to want to torque something fierce and the factory stock is not going to offer much help. The varmint X style bags filled with heavy sand/sandblasting grit might work better.

reloading gear as quickly as possible not just for cost but also for performance.

I would lean you towards the Sightron SIII LR family of scope cause of the wonderful optics, great tracking and massive eye relief - you want beaucoup space between that scope and your head even if you have a muzzle brake.

Go make some noise, have some fun and the rest will quickly figure itself out.

Jerry
 
Yes, reloading equipment asap!

Those .338 rounds aren't cheap, but above cost reloading will give you more consistency in your groups. Horde your brass as it it were ##### gold!
Personally, IMO, I think .338 is a bit too much for shooting at 100-300 metres. If you were making 300-800 yd shots I can see the want/need for such a round. (and when you said meters, you meant meters right? Not yards?)

If you consider el-cheapo factory PHP .308 gets as low as .80 cents a round sometimes, stays flat in your 700 at 200-230 yds (at least my 700 was shooting lasers at that distance), and at that range even factory ammo will give you a somewhat decent group.

Controversially, some people claim that the .338 doesn't even stabilize until it travels 100-200+ yds. But I'm not an expert on that topic at all, just what I heard from the club.

Just like Mysticplayer said, do all of the above mentioned modifications/upgrades, hes got that bang on. Good solid rifle, and an excellent round choice.
 
For reloading, all I need are dies and the components. I have been loading for about a year now, so I will take care of that asap.

As for the distances involved, the only reason I am shooting such short range is I am in Ontario, and have limited choices for long range shooting. The ORA is my only solid bet, and I do not know if you have to join at the start of the shooting season or if you can join at any time. I will investigate further.

Cheers for the advice, and keep it coming!
 
Yeah, I mean .338 is one awesome round, but it's made for long range, and increased flat trajectories, if you're not going to be shooting at long range, and you don't want to be paying $3+ a round, .223, .308 etc fly just as straight at your limited range and at a fraction of the cost.

Would it be too late to exchange it for one chambered in a lower caliber, or do you want it simply cuz it shoots the .338 Lapua?

Which Is totally understandable :D
 
I am assuming that you have the basic range gear (front rest/rear bag etc..)for the rifle I would get:
A rail with recoil lugs, and a 20 moa cant, bed the rail to the action
Strong rings
Scope that has a top end of over 20x and can deal with having a big brake stop the recoil
A better brake
Scope level (Vortex makes a nice one for about 50 bucks)
Skim Bed the action
Aftermarket trigger (I have a tuned xmark, a tuned older design trigger, a Jewel and a rifle basics, the tuned factory are ok, but they are no Jewel..)


And before any of that I would definitely get setup for reloading with decent equipment, don't scrimp on a good scale and get match quality dies. Pick up some Berger 300gr hybrids and a pile of powder (H1000)... The price of admission is worth the boom!!

FWIW I have an edge built by ATRS, sure its expensive to shoot compared to a 308... but does a 308 blow your hair back when you touch one off?
 
A big ass muzzle brake. The MLR is a really light rifle with a crap brake on it so it will kick the crap out of you.

I recently spent an afternoon with a big heavy 338 Edge that had a big gill brake on it and I still went home with a sore arm. Personally I wouldn't be interested in pulling the trigger on that MLR without a more efficient brake installed cause it is gonna HURT!

FWIW H1000 is the WRONG powder to use in an MLR. The barrel is too short to take advantage of a powder that slow. All it would do is produce a great big fireball.
 
So I took the plunge and I now have a brand new Remington 700P in .338 in the mail to me. :D


This rifle will be shot only from a bench, and only from 100-300 meters, at least for now. (Not a member of the ORA yet)


What are the most important things I need to get for it to have good accuracy from a bench? What would be the first things you would purchase for your 700?


What brand of Base, Rings, Scope, and would you do anything to the Trigger, Stock bedding, etc?


Cheers,

Kevin.

Join the ORA. As far as I know the only official long shooting range certified for the .338Lap in ON is Mons range at camp Borden. The ORA shoots there. Precision rifle only with muzzle brake. Not F-class.

Check the ORA website for joining.

NormB
 
When was the last time you saw a factory rifle that came bedded? There are none that I know of.



The standard Model 700P features an H-S Precision® composite stock reinforced with Du Pont Kevlar and fiberglass. They'll stay dimensionally stable in any weather and under the worst tactical situations. The stock is laid up around an aircraft-grade aluminum bedding block that runs up the entire length of the receiver. It has a textured, black, non-reflective finish and comes with sling swivel studs.


I thought that meant it was bedded. Forgive me though, I am new to precision.
 
Alright, so I have picked up the following for her.

- XTB Bases
- 30mm Burris Sig Zee Med Rings with inserts

- 100 HRN Brass

- 1 box Sierra 300 Gr (50 projectiles)
- 1 box HRN HPBT Match 250 Gr (50 projectiles)

-Dies: Redding type S neck bushing die, Redding body die, the Forster Ultra (micrometer adj inline match seater)


I picked a cheap Leapers Accushot SWAT 3-12x 44mm scope to mount temporarily untill the next paycheck comes in, I will mount somthing a lot better on her then.

l4.jpg





Now all I need is some powder and I will cook up a few cartridges for her in the loading room.

I am super excited to get her and put it all together.
:D :ar15:
 
The standard Model 700P features an H-S Precision® composite stock reinforced with Du Pont Kevlar and fiberglass. They'll stay dimensionally stable in any weather and under the worst tactical situations. The stock is laid up around an aircraft-grade aluminum bedding block that runs up the entire length of the receiver. It has a textured, black, non-reflective finish and comes with sling swivel studs.


I thought that meant it was bedded. Forgive me though, I am new to precision.

The alum chassis stocks are some of the most in need of bedding - this regardless of manf.

Jerry
 
Change the brake..

After one trip to the range, first thing I did was change the brake....the one one the right is factory.., the one on the left is a NEAR , improved Sako type.

PICT1292.jpg


PICT1338.jpg
 
The new Sako TRG 42 from NEar are quite Nice compare to the Older one, Shooting edge carry them, might wanted to check it out.
 
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