That's what I was going to say, I have had a couple of very accurate rifles that after I removed all the copper fouling and REALLY cleaned them were less accurate until they became fouled again.
New rifle - brake in needed or a myth worth ignoring???
- Thread starter smitas5
- Start date
That's what I was going to say, I have had a couple of very accurate rifles that after I removed all the copper fouling and REALLY cleaned them were less accurate until they became fouled again.
Buy box of ammo, and clean bore before shooting.
Go to range, bore sight, and fire first shot at 25 yards, then clean.
Adjust scope, fire two more shots, then clean. By now you should be zeroed at 25 yards.
Three shots at 100 yards, then clean.
Adjust scope to preferred point of impact at 100, shoot four shots to confirm poi, then clean.
Fire five more shots at 300 yards to determine drop, then clean.
You are now sighted in, know the trajectory of the load, and have five left in the box to go huntin'.
Ted
Go to range, bore sight, and fire first shot at 25 yards, then clean.
Adjust scope, fire two more shots, then clean. By now you should be zeroed at 25 yards.
Three shots at 100 yards, then clean.
Adjust scope to preferred point of impact at 100, shoot four shots to confirm poi, then clean.
Fire five more shots at 300 yards to determine drop, then clean.
You are now sighted in, know the trajectory of the load, and have five left in the box to go huntin'.
Ted
John Krieger, probably the greatest barrel maker/guru of our time, calls it BS. I'll go with that.
There's a lot of reasons why various manufacturers say to do it, that has nothing to do with making the gun more accurate. One of the key ones is that it gives them a "get out of warranty work free" card.
There's a lot of reasons why various manufacturers say to do it, that has nothing to do with making the gun more accurate. One of the key ones is that it gives them a "get out of warranty work free" card.
Well there you go.
You have a custom barrel and where provided with appropriate details on how to care for your new barrel.
I doubt a factory stock average rifle will be up to the challenge yours is .
Routine cleaning and care for a general duty firearm is all that is needed .
What do the men and women in the Military do when they are training?
They dont all get a brand spanking new gun every time there is an intake into the service or do they?
Rob
I only every tried it once, with a 7mm mag....the shoot 1 clean, shoot 2 clean, etc, and noticed no difference at all vs my normal "routine". Still takes 50+ rounds to smooth the bore out.
The most noticeable copper fouler I have, is a Zastava Stainless 7x64. After 3 boxes (60 rounds) and my Gunzilla/Wipeout treatment after each box, it no longer copper fouls at all.
The most noticeable copper fouler I have, is a Zastava Stainless 7x64. After 3 boxes (60 rounds) and my Gunzilla/Wipeout treatment after each box, it no longer copper fouls at all.
Ah I been doing it backwards. I always started with WOLVERINES!!
The Kreiger video is interesting...some companies (I believe Diemaco is one) hammer forge their barrels AND chambers at the same time...this eliminates (significantly reduces) the reamer marks perpendicular to the bore that Kreiger identifies as the major cause of copper fouling. I believe that Steyr does the same on their SSG barrels as they do not advise break in for a new barrel and suggest only a 'silk noil (whatever that is!) or cotton wool and barrel oil' for cleaning.
hometownhero
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Toon Town, Sk
I have custom barrel now (I know not much to draw from) my shillen barrel never did have a spec of cooper in it. First day after install went and shot it for hours. Took it home and put in some wipeout and there was nothing. 800 rounds later still no copper.
I have tried to do the proper "break in" and after half an hour I said F this and shot the hell out of the gun the rest of the day. Shot that gun a lot in the 4 years I had it and always shot great and very minimal to no copper at all.
Best way I found to break in a new barrel
I have tried to do the proper "break in" and after half an hour I said F this and shot the hell out of the gun the rest of the day. Shot that gun a lot in the 4 years I had it and always shot great and very minimal to no copper at all.
Best way I found to break in a new barrel
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Perhaps the break-in matters and makes a diference to the paper puncher shooters, but for the average hunter does it realy make a diference? I doubt it.
For me on a new gun I clean it well before shooting the first round, and pay particular attention to the chamber. I expect the new gun has some sort of preserving oil or grease from the factory, and wether it does or not I clean it as if it does. { I do the same with a used gun also }
That out of the way I shoot it , and sight it in, and then take it home, give it a good soaking with G96, and let it sit 10 minutes before running a brush and patches thru it and finish up with a final G96 wet patch .
I never shoot enough to get a barrel hot , when it feels warm it sits for a bit with the action open , and pointed up to let it cool to the touch. This has worked good for over 40 years.
My interest is for a hunting rifle that shoots good at practical ranges, not at something in the next county. sighting 3" high at 100 YDS works for me with all calibers, hold center of ribs , and don't worry about Kentucky elevation , because if this sighting is going to shoot to low it's to far in the first place and I let it walk or get closer. Know the limits of the gun and yourself .
I only load Nosler Partitions, and at the price they cost I am not going to blast hundreds a day into a target.
For me on a new gun I clean it well before shooting the first round, and pay particular attention to the chamber. I expect the new gun has some sort of preserving oil or grease from the factory, and wether it does or not I clean it as if it does. { I do the same with a used gun also }
That out of the way I shoot it , and sight it in, and then take it home, give it a good soaking with G96, and let it sit 10 minutes before running a brush and patches thru it and finish up with a final G96 wet patch .
I never shoot enough to get a barrel hot , when it feels warm it sits for a bit with the action open , and pointed up to let it cool to the touch. This has worked good for over 40 years.
My interest is for a hunting rifle that shoots good at practical ranges, not at something in the next county. sighting 3" high at 100 YDS works for me with all calibers, hold center of ribs , and don't worry about Kentucky elevation , because if this sighting is going to shoot to low it's to far in the first place and I let it walk or get closer. Know the limits of the gun and yourself .
I only load Nosler Partitions, and at the price they cost I am not going to blast hundreds a day into a target.
That never gets old.
hometownhero
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Toon Town, Sk
This thread was looking a little dead thought we could all use some laughs.
