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BullseyeBob

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Got my new Urika II in the mail today, should I just run a patch through the barrel or do I have to pull it all apart and clean/oil everything?

Also, does anyone have a good writeup on using the supplied drop/cast spacers?

I'm a lefty so I'm guessing I'll want to change the cast a bit.

Thanks...I appologise for the nooblike questions.

My only other shotgun was an 870 Express and all I did for that was keep the barrel clean:)
 
BullseyeBob said:
Got my new Urika II in the mail today, should I just run a patch through the barrel or do I have to pull it all apart and clean/oil everything?

Also, does anyone have a good writeup on using the supplied drop/cast spacers?
Click to expand...

READ your owner's manual!!! It will tell you most, if not all of what you have asked here.
 
BullseyeBob said:
I did read it...guess I'll have to read it again.

It's not the best manual I've ever seen.
Click to expand...


Look at page 20 "Routine maintenance". Assume the firearm was test fired at the factory. Perform the Routine Maintenance before using and away you go.

Page 26 tells you about adjusting the butt stock using the spacers. As per Beretta:
"Stock drop and cast modification must be carried out by a competent gunsmith"
 
woolly said:
Page 26 tells you about adjusting the butt stock using the spacers. As per Beretta:
"Stock drop and cast modification must be carried out by a competent gunsmith"
Click to expand...
I think that's BS on Beretta's part. Adjusting the stock spacers isn't rocket science and the manual that came with my gun explained it clearly enough.

Otherwise on the Beretta you don't need to take it apart but cleaning the barrel is a good idea. Ensure there is a thin coat of lubrication on the moving parts and you should be good to go.

Some other suggestions: Ensure the forend is fully seated in the receiver. The receiver should be flush with the forend. This can be an issue with new guns and if not done properly can lead to forend cracks. Secondly, make sure the forend cap is loosened off when you store the gun. It can seize if left tightened down for long periods of time.

The choke tubes can back out and become loose when the gun is being shot. This isn't unique to the Urika but is common on other Berettas with Optima chokes and on Benellis.

When you get to the point that you want to do a full cleaning on the gun I've found that the breach and action bars go in easier if the trigger assembly is removed. The trigger assembly may be difficult to remove the first couple of times. After removing the cross pin move the trigger assembly slightly forward and then down. To replace the trigger assembly it is easier if you press the bolt release (button on the right side of the receiver) while inserting the assembly back into the reciever.

The Urika is a great gun. The best gas-operated semi on the market today IMO.
 
Good advice from Claybuster.

All the information you inquired about, plus much more is contained in the "Instruction
Manual" supplied with the gun.

The version I have is in Italian, English, French & Spanish ... although there are I
suspect, a number of versions out there.

Routine & Special Maintenance is found on p. 49-54.

Information concerning the plug (factory installed) is on p.55

Stock Drop & Cast Modification is found on p. 55-57 ... with no mention of such
modifications being carried out by a competent gunsmith.

You may have a different version altogether, however, changing the stock drop and cast spacers is easy enough.

Oh, and by the way, the more conventional translation of a "hexagonal tube spanner [13mm]" ... as found in my manual, is ... " 13 mm socket" ... ( you'll need a 6" extension on your 3/8 drive ratchet, and a small flashlight helps too ). For conventional recoil pads, lube the first inch or so of your Phillips screwdriver with a little vaseline or light grease before inserting it into the holes on the recoil pad to take it off or reinstall it . Helps to prevent any damage to the rubber ! Obviously not necessary for guns which come with the "Gel Tek" installed pads.
 
Claybuster said:
I think that's BS on Beretta's part. Adjusting the stock spacers isn't rocket science and the manual that came with my gun explained it clearly enough.
Click to expand...

Agreed most anyone can install a spacer, but what spacer is the correct one? Does the cast need to go left or right? And by how much? What effect does changing the cast have on drop, etc.. There are a lot of variables involved in fitting a shotgun to a shooter properly, which Beretta as a major shotgun manufacturer knows, thus their recommendation to have it done by someone in the know rather than trial and error which may work but calling BS on Beretta seems a bit much.
 
woolly said:
Agreed most anyone can install a spacer, but what spacer is the correct one? Does the cast need to go left or right? And by how much? What effect does changing the cast have on drop, etc.. There are a lot of variables involved in fitting a shotgun to a shooter properly, which Beretta as a major shotgun manufacturer knows, thus their recommendation to have it done by someone in the know rather than trial and error which may work but calling BS on Beretta seems a bit much.
Click to expand...
This is all explained in the manual. The spacers are marked in centimeters for drop. They are also marked for left and right. SX stands for "sinistro" which in English means left. DX stands "destro" which means right cast.

Cast is a right to left adjustment. It doesn't usually affect drop. The 391 typically comes with recoil pads of differing thicknesses to change length of pull. Changing the LOP does have a modest affect on drop at heel.

I don't think it's necessary for most shooters to have the spacers installed by a gunsmith providing they can read and follow simple instructions. However there are people who can't put a barbecue together without professional help and for them running off to the gunsmith might be a worthy recommendation.
 
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