new stock install

[Odinson]

So, a long story shortened: a year or so ago I bought a 1941 Husquavarna 6.5x55 at a gun show. The vendor did not disclose that someone had messed with the chamber. I subsequently was able to buy a new barrel (still in the white) from Tradex. I took it straight over to Gunco and Jason did his magic with installing the new barrel. So far, so good but now that I essentially have a brand spankin' new rifle, I started thinking about a new stock so I ordered one from Browells. Beautiful walnut with a gorgeous grain.
A couple of questions that I need help with ..... Do I free float or glass bed the barrel? Secondly, any recommendations for finish?
This is my first venture into doing this sort of thing. Thanks!

 

[bearhunter]

Free float it first. You can always add pressure points later, if needed.

As for finish, you need to be a lot more specific

One of the cheapest and easily maintained finishes on wood stocks is KIWI shoe polish, mixed 75% polish with 25% Boiled Linseed Oil. Very easily applied and easy to touch up when needed.

 

[Odinson]

Free float it first. You can always add pressure points later, if needed.

As for finish, you need to be a lot more specific

One of the cheapest and easily maintained finishes on wood stocks is KIWI shoe polish, mixed 75% polish with 25% Boiled Linseed Oil. Very easily applied and easy to touch up when needed.

Thank you! I had never even thought about the KIWI shoe polish. Like I said, this is a whole new adventure for me.

 

[BigUglyMan]

There was an article in Gun Digest several years ago (Gun Digest 2001...I guess it was a few years ago!) entitled "The Lemon Meringue Gunstock". Now, being a fancier of pies, this intrigued me. So far I've only done two stocks using the method...the factory take-off that I bought for my A-Bolt project (I hated the factory finish on Browning wood stocks) and the replacement stock that I bought from Brownells for my M98 Mauser in 9.3x62. A quick Google search saved me dragging the book in to work to scan (but I will if you'd like the whole article).

Materials: wet or dry papers in 400, 600, 800, 1000; one lemon, one egg, clear surgical rubbing alchohol, a small bottle of artistic grade linseed oil and a large rubber earaser to use as backing.

1. Polish stock with 400 grit

2. After polishing liberally coat with lemon juice

3. After lemon juice is absorbed comes surgical alchohol, about 5 passes with cotton wool

4. Next need to fill the pores. Rub eggwhite into stock by hand. Once dry, rub down to bare wood with 400 grit

5. Apply alshohol to stock, let it dry and put on more eggwhite. Repeat routine untill most of the pores are filled in.

6. Start with 400 grit untill all traces of egg-white are gone. Go on to 600 and always use eraser backing. Move onto 800. Move onto
1000. When done take some used 1000 and polish again.

7. Now hand rub thin coats of linseed oil. If any oil on the surface wipe off with clean cotton rag. Average density walnut stock will take about six coats.

8. Time for automotive rubbing compound. Finest grit body and paint shops use to finish cars. Make sure compound is not combined with wax.
aplly it thinly over stock and let dry. Polish gently with a leather chamois.

9. Next comes beeswax polish. If you can't find it, you can make it. Need 1 block of real beeswax, about the size of a shotgun shell.
shred it on a cheese grater and drop it into a jar with four spoonfuls of real turpentine (the stuff the comes from pine resin, not
synthetic). The wax will melt in the turpentine

10. Spread a little paste on stock with clean cloth and leave to dry for hour or so. Once dry rub well with a leather chamois.

 

[hunter5425]

I've refinished a few stocks and I like Tru-oil as its fairly forgiving and relatively fast. Birchwood casey also sells a stock filler as well. Good luck on you project.

 

[Odinson]

There was an article in Gun Digest several years ago (Gun Digest 2001...I guess it was a few years ago!) entitled "The Lemon Meringue Gunstock". Now, being a fancier of pies, this intrigued me. So far I've only done two stocks using the method...the factory take-off that I bought for my A-Bolt project (I hated the factory finish on Browning wood stocks) and the replacement stock that I bought from Brownells for my M98 Mauser in 9.3x62. A quick Google search saved me dragging the book in to work to scan (but I will if you'd like the whole article).

Materials: wet or dry papers in 400, 600, 800, 1000; one lemon, one egg, clear surgical rubbing alchohol, a small bottle of artistic grade linseed oil and a large rubber earaser to use as backing.

1. Polish stock with 400 grit

2. After polishing liberally coat with lemon juice

3. After lemon juice is absorbed comes surgical alchohol, about 5 passes with cotton wool

4. Next need to fill the pores. Rub eggwhite into stock by hand. Once dry, rub down to bare wood with 400 grit

5. Apply alshohol to stock, let it dry and put on more eggwhite. Repeat routine untill most of the pores are filled in.

6. Start with 400 grit untill all traces of egg-white are gone. Go on to 600 and always use eraser backing. Move onto 800. Move onto
1000. When done take some used 1000 and polish again.

7. Now hand rub thin coats of linseed oil. If any oil on the surface wipe off with clean cotton rag. Average density walnut stock will take about six coats.

8. Time for automotive rubbing compound. Finest grit body and paint shops use to finish cars. Make sure compound is not combined with wax.
aplly it thinly over stock and let dry. Polish gently with a leather chamois.

9. Next comes beeswax polish. If you can't find it, you can make it. Need 1 block of real beeswax, about the size of a shotgun shell.
shred it on a cheese grater and drop it into a jar with four spoonfuls of real turpentine (the stuff the comes from pine resin, not
synthetic). The wax will melt in the turpentine

10. Spread a little paste on stock with clean cloth and leave to dry for hour or so. Once dry rub well with a leather chamois.

Thank you for this information. I'm going to give this a try on one of my other projects.

 

[Odinson]

I've refinished a few stocks and I like Tru-oil as its fairly forgiving and relatively fast. Birchwood casey also sells a stock filler as well. Good luck on you project.

Thank you for the information. Wonder how it would work on a furniture project?

 

[hunter5425]

It would be a bit expensive for furniture, I use it for knife scales.

 

[Al-Sway]

If this is one of your first attempts at finishing a stock, I would recommend Tru Oil as the simplest to apply and relatively fool proof. It provides a reasonably good hard finish that is water resistant (note not waterproof).
I personally use Tung Oil, sanded into the finish with 400 grit Wet and Dry sandpaper.
I would not recommend any of the above: there was one article about the egg finish, and I have never before seen shoe polish as recommended. There is a reason that hundreds of years of stock finishes normally resort to the proven methods.

 

[guntech]

There was an article in Gun Digest several years ago (Gun Digest 2001...I guess it was a few years ago!) entitled "The Lemon Meringue Gunstock". Now, being a fancier of pies, this intrigued me. So far I've only done two stocks using the method...the factory take-off that I bought for my A-Bolt project (I hated the factory finish on Browning wood stocks) and the replacement stock that I bought from Brownells for my M98 Mauser in 9.3x62. A quick Google search saved me dragging the book in to work to scan (but I will if you'd like the whole article).

Materials: wet or dry papers in 400, 600, 800, 1000; one lemon, one egg, clear surgical rubbing alchohol, a small bottle of artistic grade linseed oil and a large rubber earaser to use as backing.

1. Polish stock with 400 grit

2. After polishing liberally coat with lemon juice

3. After lemon juice is absorbed comes surgical alchohol, about 5 passes with cotton wool

4. Next need to fill the pores. Rub eggwhite into stock by hand. Once dry, rub down to bare wood with 400 grit

5. Apply alshohol to stock, let it dry and put on more eggwhite. Repeat routine untill most of the pores are filled in.

6. Start with 400 grit untill all traces of egg-white are gone. Go on to 600 and always use eraser backing. Move onto 800. Move onto
1000. When done take some used 1000 and polish again.

7. Now hand rub thin coats of linseed oil. If any oil on the surface wipe off with clean cotton rag. Average density walnut stock will take about six coats.

8. Time for automotive rubbing compound. Finest grit body and paint shops use to finish cars. Make sure compound is not combined with wax.
aplly it thinly over stock and let dry. Polish gently with a leather chamois.

9. Next comes beeswax polish. If you can't find it, you can make it. Need 1 block of real beeswax, about the size of a shotgun shell.
shred it on a cheese grater and drop it into a jar with four spoonfuls of real turpentine (the stuff the comes from pine resin, not
synthetic). The wax will melt in the turpentine

10. Spread a little paste on stock with clean cloth and leave to dry for hour or so. Once dry rub well with a leather chamois.

Lemon Meringue was always finished in a hot oven... usually preheated to 350 degrees and in for about 10 minutes until it is a golden brown...

Don't forget this step...