New T-Bolt

Al Flipo

CGN Regular
Rating - 100%
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That looks great. Wonder where it's made?
I've got a very nice left hand one.

Looking at that price, for what it will probably cost in Canada, I can buy buy two originals.
 
I love my heirloom t-bolt. The high grade stock is beautiful but it is cracked bad. Might get a replacement someday. Needs a trigger guard too. There is an origonal one at www.shootist.ab.ca . It looks mint, has the arperture sight still as well as spare mags. If I had the coin it would be moving in with me at my new doghouse residence when my wife found out!
 
Noel.
You should put that T-Bolt back in shooting condition. Talk to Jeff at WGP, they sell an aftermarket stock for the T-Bolt, it needs a little sanding and a couple coats of stock oil. They may also have the trigger guard, and I know that they have the rear sight and the single shot adapter in stock.
As for magazines, they come up for sale here at CGN, I picked one up for $48 recently.
 
Thanks Al Flippo!
It is still very servicable it's just that the barrel action moves the slightest bit in the stock. It has been repaired in a couple spots to try and hold it together but the joins of the crack shift every time the humidity changes so it gets shot as is. It really is a shame as the stock is beautiful. I already got a replacement trigger guard from WGP but it is just cheeze plastic crap and will not allow me to tighten the action down enough without breaking the edge of the guard hole. I even put a small steel sleeve in the hole to try to curb it.

When it's turn comes up, I am going to get a replacement stock but it has to be of equal beauty to the origonal. Then I will build a trigger guard that will never give out. It will never leave the family so I am going to deviate from the origonal look and add build one with more classic lines like the one on my Brno high powered rifle.
I have two of the arperture sights too, don't know why. My Great Grandfather bought it, I guess in the 70's as it was made in 1974. It had a couple spare clips too of which I was smart enough to loose since getting it 15 years ago. :( It came with a weaver 3/4" 3 or 4 power scope that was as bright as twenty minutes after legal light. It now wears high polished Burris rings and a Weaver 2-7x30 something. A bit overkill but it can really reel in those gophers away across the field.
If I get a chance I will put up a picture of it for all these 10-22 lovers to see what a real .22 looks like. LOL! :p
 
This rifle looks really good, glad Browning is going to bring it back. I heard that some of the originals suffered from rust where the metal was covered by the wood due to Brownings salt drying process used on wood stocks during the 70's. I really appreciate a high quality .22 and hopefully this will be one. Wonder if they will bring it out in .22 WMR and .17HMR?
 
Here is some info on salt-wood pinched from another site.

"Salt wood resulted from a process used on Brownings to speed up the curing time of wood...the salt would draw out the moisture and speed up the drying process, unfortunately the salt residue remained in the wood grain and caused metal corrosion where the metal and wood made contact. This was not a Browning problem, but a supplier problem.
About 1965, a large wood supplier sent wood not only to Browning for FN's use but also to Bishop, Fajen, Winchester, Ruger and to the US Military for M-14 stocks. This company was drying their walnut using granulated salt, by covering the wood with salt and placing it in quonset huts.
The wood dried so quickly that the workers said they could actually see a steady drip of moisture coming from the wood. The wood was already cut into the appropriate size planks and no one thought that any salt residue would remain on or in the wood after final shaping, sanding, and finshing.The US Government stopped using walnut for the M-14 rifles and went to other types of wood because properly cured wood was so scarce at the time.
In Brownings case, the problem first showed up starting in 1966 and ends on their guns about 1973. Superposes and T-Bolts made between 1967-1973 should be looked at; Safari, Medallion or Olympian made between 1967-1976; and any A5's 2,000,000 edition Commemoratives should be looked at.
Inspect any place the metal touches the wood. Take out the butt plate screws and look them over carefully. If you find no rust, the gun is probably OK. Sometimes you can test the wood with silver nitrate. Place a drop or two on a hidden spot on the wood, if it bubbles you have a problem
Browning procrastinated in signing the wood contract it Europe because there was a price spike. BA thought it was a ploy and put off the purchase knowing there was plenty of cheap California wood available if needed. By the time the European wood deal fell through the California wood was gone.
The only figured wood available was planks bought in California but sent to South America for furniture. BA was trapped and had to take it. *That's* where the salt curing was being done but BA missed it being a problem.
BA *tried* to sell some to TRW for M-14 stocks but Claro walnut failed the physical test and was never used. Bishop, Fajen, the so-called Warsaw (MO) pact, bought some and sold it in semi-inlets.
BA nearly went broke from the fiasco. A serious tax problem about the same time almost put them under and as a result they lost the FN connection and were forced to Japan and Portugal for guns and parts.
1968 was the “1964” of Browning Arms. That’s why round knob, long-tang, (RKLT) Brownings are more desirable.
If a Browning has French walnut stocks it can’t be salt wood. All Claro, especially the higher grades, is suspect."
 
Would this high speed drying process cause more cracking?
On mine, there is a big knot in the stock right at the beginning of the pistol grip, just below the bolt which in my mind is the weakest point. This is where the crack started. It also went from the front skrew mount forward. I wish they would have used two skrews to hod the barreled action in the stock, would have helped hold thing together better.
 
Slash5 said:
That looks great. Wonder where it's made?
I've got a very nice left hand one.

Looking at that price, for what it will probably cost in Canada, I can buy buy two originals.
Do you want to sell?
 
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