New to 303 brit loading, pointers needed

mikeystew

mikeystew

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im going to be reloading for a recently aquired parker hale sporterized maltby No4 Mk1. i have heard of issues with the old SMLE's and brass life etc, from an earlier thread on here, but how does that info apply to the parker hale? i've read that the factory sporterized models were rebuilt to tighter tolerances and frankly i have no use for under power loads. if anything i'd like to match or best factory velocity.

I have bought the lee deluxe kit and plan on neck sizing only, but i would appreciate any info poeple are willing to share on reloading the 303 brit, Thanks.
 
Tighter tolerances? Except for a limited number of rebarrelled PH rifles, all the parts are original. The absolute worst case of excess headspace I have ever seen in a No. 4 rifle was in a PH No. 4 fitted by PH with a new commercial barrel. You can tell if the barrel is commercial by the absence of a flat on the top of the barrel breech.
No harm in checking the headspace. Closer to .064" the better.
Inspect fired cases very carefully, looking for signs of incipient separations.
If you don't find any, and if the cases chamber, go ahead with necksizing. You can work up loads as you would for any rifle. Hotter may reduce case life. You may find that case life is short no matter what you do.
Check cases for incipient separations before each reloading.
 
Buying a reloading manual will give you all the info you need - I use the LEE. If you're a newbie at this you are best off getting a complete kit, which comes with a manual. Read the manual from cover to cover 3 times, then you're in a position to ask questions to the internet experts.
FWIW - Until you develop some personal experience at reloading, shooting full house loads in a LE is a good way to hurt yourself.
 
"...how does one go about checking/measuring headspace..." Headspace is checked with headspace guages. It's a rifle manufacturing tolerance that allows ammo made by all makers to be used in a firearm. Brownell's, Stateside, sells 'em. About $30US each.
Bits of tape, empty cases, etc tell you nothing.
The set consists of a Go, a No-Go and a Field. They don't measure anything though. They just tell you if the headspace is within tolerance. The bolt should close completely on a Go(minimum). It should not completely close on a No-Go(high), but if it does, you try the Field(maximum). If the bolt completely closes on a Field, the headspace is excessive and the rifle is not safe to shoot with any ammo. The key is 'completely' close.
Unless you're rebarrelling or fitting a new bolt/bolt head, just the No-Go and Field will do.
It's best to remove the extractor, put the guage in the chamber and gently close the bolt. It can be done by putting the guage under the extractor and closing the bolt.
 
I reload for a couple other rifle calibers already, and i have read the lee, lyman and hornady books from cover to cover a couple times... does that qualify me to ask the experts?

I know from reading those manuals that 303 brit can be a finnicky round to reload thats why i thought i'd ask, i shot the rifle today and noticed the case head was expanding more than i would feel safe to reload, but is that necessarily a case of excessive headspace or could it be an oversized chamber?

also the shells i was using were 30+ year old imperial and one round of norma. the norma did not expand as much as the imperial FWIW...
 
I reload for my .303.
This site is a big help

http://carteach0.########.com/2009/03/hand-loading-303-british-sizing.html
Oversized chambers were a necessary evil for these tried and true battle rifles.
 
I use IVI brass most of the time, milsurp brass seems to have a longer case life, I shoot near max loads and neck size with an RCBS neck sizer. I can usually get 3 full power loads from my brass, after that they get relegated to light cast loads also some good info here

http://www.303british.com/
 
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