I've been reloading for modern smokeless rifle cartridges for a number of years now but I am looking to get into loading BP for my webley. I'm a newb when it comes to BP reloading and I am getting so conflicting info concerning reloading the. 455 cases I have. I have a couple hundred fiocchi MKII cases, but the data I have found for 455 in black powder is for the longer MKI cases. Is it safe to use the data from the MKI loads and seat my bullet accordingly? Also what is the best method to measure my black powder charge and confirm my bullet is seat against it but not compressing it?
new to black powder reloading
- Thread starter Jammed
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I have no experience with the .455 Webly but can help a little with general black powder cartridge info.
You want to compress black powder at least a little. It often performs best (most consistently and cleanly) when highly compressed but that often takes a special compression die. In days gone past it was compressed into solid pellets and dropped into cases during loading. The black powder .303 British loads were done this way and the neck was formed after the cases where charged with powder.
Black powder can be measured by equivalent volumetric weight (with a scoop or brass measure) but this is a tad crude but usually works. I prefer to measure by weight same as any smokeless (but don't use a thrower designed for smokeless). You want a consistent mass (number of atoms/molecules) of propellant in the case. Since it's the atoms that react in the combustion, they are what matters, not how bulky they are.
If you seat to the same OAL there should be the same volume inside the case no matter how long the brass is. This is assuming they will still fit in the chamber seated to this length. There will be more of the bullet shank exposed. Don't forget to lube your bullets and that some black powder lubes can migrate and contaminate powder if left too long.
Pretty much all black powder loads use an over-powder-card of some kind. It's just a disk of cardboard or heavy paper between the powder and bullet. I bought some for my 45-70 loads (.460") from Track of the Wolf in the US. They likely have some suitable for your bullet diameter.
Black powder cartridge is really messy, a PitA to clean, but a lot of fun. Have you looked at possible Trail Boss loads for smokeless? I remember reading about those a little for .455 Webly. Trail Boss often gives higher pressures for a given velocity compared to most other smokeless powders so keep that in mind. Also never compress it.
You want to compress black powder at least a little. It often performs best (most consistently and cleanly) when highly compressed but that often takes a special compression die. In days gone past it was compressed into solid pellets and dropped into cases during loading. The black powder .303 British loads were done this way and the neck was formed after the cases where charged with powder.
Black powder can be measured by equivalent volumetric weight (with a scoop or brass measure) but this is a tad crude but usually works. I prefer to measure by weight same as any smokeless (but don't use a thrower designed for smokeless). You want a consistent mass (number of atoms/molecules) of propellant in the case. Since it's the atoms that react in the combustion, they are what matters, not how bulky they are.
If you seat to the same OAL there should be the same volume inside the case no matter how long the brass is. This is assuming they will still fit in the chamber seated to this length. There will be more of the bullet shank exposed. Don't forget to lube your bullets and that some black powder lubes can migrate and contaminate powder if left too long.
Pretty much all black powder loads use an over-powder-card of some kind. It's just a disk of cardboard or heavy paper between the powder and bullet. I bought some for my 45-70 loads (.460") from Track of the Wolf in the US. They likely have some suitable for your bullet diameter.
Black powder cartridge is really messy, a PitA to clean, but a lot of fun. Have you looked at possible Trail Boss loads for smokeless? I remember reading about those a little for .455 Webly. Trail Boss often gives higher pressures for a given velocity compared to most other smokeless powders so keep that in mind. Also never compress it.
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Don't let this scare you, it's not that bad. Wipe out bore after each shooting session with windshield-washer anti-freeze, followed by light coat of oil. Done deal.
Chuck the brass in a jar of soapy water (dishsoap works good), slosh around, dump out to dry.
I don't mind the mess at all I enjoy cleaning my firearms. Thank you for the info on the over powder cards I forgot to ask about them. I have considered using trail boss or unique buy would prefer to use BP as the gun was designed for it.
Buy a copy of Lyman's BP Handbook and Reloading Guide. Runs about $30 at your local gun shop or you can buy directly from Lyman. (Worth every cent. And it's a good read.) Tells you everything you need to know. Starting with BP is loaded in grains by volume not mass like smokeless powder.
Not at home so I can't look, but there might be .455 BP loads in it.
Not at home so I can't look, but there might be .455 BP loads in it.
The standard info for any BP cartridges is that you want to have some amount of compression of the powder. A properly compressed load burns over a longer period and produces more of the proper THUMP! instead of an overall burn that is more like a detonation.
If you don't want to use that much powder than use some sort of filler that allows you to still produce a proper compression.
There's not much point in using an over powder card unless you are using a lube pill and need to separate it from the powder to avoid contaminating and killing the powder from the grease.
If you don't want to use that much powder than use some sort of filler that allows you to still produce a proper compression.
There's not much point in using an over powder card unless you are using a lube pill and need to separate it from the powder to avoid contaminating and killing the powder from the grease.
