Hey everyone and thanks in advance. Got into reloading for .300 savage. Watched videos and did some reading. So I cleaned all the old brass, deprimed, resized trimmed etc. So i was seating the projectile for 300 savage. I’m use Rcbs dies but also have a lee factory crimp die. For some reason after using the seating die and the factory crimp the projectile is loose. Can’t pull it out but can wiggle. I did ream the inside and outside of the . Is it possible I reamed too much? Is the case garbage or could I trim it a little bit? Thanks in advance.
New to reloading got some questions.
- Thread starter Aaron0313
- Start date
Measure the inside of your case neck, and thickness of the brass in the neck. You may have to resize your brass again to get proper neck dimensions. - dan
Your neck I.D. is larger than the bullet O.D.
The factory crimp only crimps at the very edge of the neck opening. This is giving you a fulcrum effect at the point of crimp.
As mentioned check neck ID and bullet OD
The factory crimp only crimps at the very edge of the neck opening. This is giving you a fulcrum effect at the point of crimp.
As mentioned check neck ID and bullet OD
Chamfering.....
- Location
- Western Manitoba
Reaming inside and outside of neck might be advantage if you have slightly sub-sized custom neck in your barrel that requires that - with the appropriate expander ball and sizing die (or bushing die) that goes with that. I have loaded since mid 1970's - I played with outside neck trimming for a factory 338 Win Mag rifle - I could not show myself any difference in 5 shot groups at 100 yards, so I decided that was "busy-work" - waste of my time and effort, if I could not produce results on target. Outside reaming may have merit to "even up" the neck thickness, but that thickness flaw is going to likely run down entire case body. I have not reamed at all, since early 2000's. If you are concerned about "bullet neck tension" - measure your case mouth wall thicknesses - sort your brass by that. If you want something to fuss about, look into loaded cartridge concentricity and how to measure that - I most definitely satisfied myself that 0.003" runout (or less) gives me better groups (with my store-bought rifles with factory production chambers and barrels) than 0.004" run out (or greater).
If you have reamed your brass so necks are now too thin for your chamber neck, expander ball and sizing die, then those brass are "ruined" - load them up as practice rounds, until the primer pockets get loose. Will be a LOT of difference among what is useful to do if you are 0.01% top bench rest or F-Class shooter with highly customized barrels and chambers, versus "normal" person using store bought production stuff.
In "Modern Reloading Second Edition" by Richard Lee - he suggests that you want the bullet to be about 0.002" LARGER than your sized diameter of your case neck - that is the "bullet tension" that you can achieve - as per him, making the neck to be smaller, simply stretches the brass in the case mouth when you seat the bullet - you will have gone beyond it's elastic capability, and will actually get SAME or LESS neck tension by making your case neck ID smaller - not MORE. In the end, it will be the holes that you produce on target that tell you whether you have improved things or not - holes on target do not lie.
If you have reamed your brass so necks are now too thin for your chamber neck, expander ball and sizing die, then those brass are "ruined" - load them up as practice rounds, until the primer pockets get loose. Will be a LOT of difference among what is useful to do if you are 0.01% top bench rest or F-Class shooter with highly customized barrels and chambers, versus "normal" person using store bought production stuff.
In "Modern Reloading Second Edition" by Richard Lee - he suggests that you want the bullet to be about 0.002" LARGER than your sized diameter of your case neck - that is the "bullet tension" that you can achieve - as per him, making the neck to be smaller, simply stretches the brass in the case mouth when you seat the bullet - you will have gone beyond it's elastic capability, and will actually get SAME or LESS neck tension by making your case neck ID smaller - not MORE. In the end, it will be the holes that you produce on target that tell you whether you have improved things or not - holes on target do not lie.
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Maybe. But there are inside neck reamers, I use a few for various brass I make from other brass. - dan
Its a .308, should not need to be reamed
A 303 savage mandrel would cause that problem
Ok I went off the newest Lyman reloading book. I think I reloaded a few rounds and everything was fine with those just this. Arch was different. I really on got into it for the cost of 300 savage rounds ($80-$100 a box) and how hard it is to fine. Just use the rifle for hunting. But I think ur right maybe the does not set properly
I can't make sense of what you're saying here but I would remove the expander from the die and measure it, then measure some bullets. Most full length sizing dies provide roughly 2.5 thou of neck tension. Occasionally you can get out of spec parts or stacked tolerances leading to insufficient neck tension. I wouldn't shoot them until you fix the problem since they can squib.
I just checked the two cases that were loose. Got a 7.84 od on bullet and 7.92 on neck Id. Would those cases be bad? Also It seemed that it only happened on the bullet seating die. The other shells been to be fine
303 Savage is 308 also.
And what is the diameter of the expander in the resizing die?
