new to reloading
- Thread starter zeddy32
- Start date
- Location
- West Quebec
What rifle /pistol calibers are you going to shoot and for hunting or target etc ?
If you are, as you say, "all set up now", then I would start by turning to the reloading manuals which you bought and have no doubt read and begin by carefully following their data. The manual will tell you the min and max load for a variety of powders and bullets. Take the list of powders/bullets from the manual into your LGS and ask "Do you have any of these in stock?" (Getting a recommendation for a powder here that you can't get access to can be very frustrating.)
Once you have the powder and bullets start doing your load work-ups. Expect that to be at least two separate trips to the range. For the first "cut", start at (or near) the minimum and load 5 bullets in that powder load. Then increase the load by 0.5 grains, and do 5 more at this load. Continue until you get to (or near) the max load. Put your targets at 200yards (or meters) and shoot your 5 round groups. You will likely find a sweet spot that is accurate in your rifle. Using that sweet spot , start your second cut at finding your ideal load. Load 10 rounds at that sweet spot, 10 rounds 0.2 grains below it, and 0.2 grains above it. Shoot these 10 round groupings at a minimum of 200 yards (200 m). It should become fairly apparent what works best for your rifle.
Anyone on here can tell you what works best in their rifle (and there are many on here who are an absolute wealth of knowledge), and assuming that they are shooting exactly the same rifle as you are, their recommendation might be pretty close, but the trick with reloading is to spend a little more time and effort up front so that when the moment comes, that time and effort pays off by knowing exactly were your rifle will send that bullet.
Hope that helps.
Once you have the powder and bullets start doing your load work-ups. Expect that to be at least two separate trips to the range. For the first "cut", start at (or near) the minimum and load 5 bullets in that powder load. Then increase the load by 0.5 grains, and do 5 more at this load. Continue until you get to (or near) the max load. Put your targets at 200yards (or meters) and shoot your 5 round groups. You will likely find a sweet spot that is accurate in your rifle. Using that sweet spot , start your second cut at finding your ideal load. Load 10 rounds at that sweet spot, 10 rounds 0.2 grains below it, and 0.2 grains above it. Shoot these 10 round groupings at a minimum of 200 yards (200 m). It should become fairly apparent what works best for your rifle.
Anyone on here can tell you what works best in their rifle (and there are many on here who are an absolute wealth of knowledge), and assuming that they are shooting exactly the same rifle as you are, their recommendation might be pretty close, but the trick with reloading is to spend a little more time and effort up front so that when the moment comes, that time and effort pays off by knowing exactly were your rifle will send that bullet.
Hope that helps.
Yup the typical get manual read manual. Great way to help a newbie out. Someone give this man some load recommendations. I'm sure someone will help you out soon. 180gr Partition with H4350 or Varget. Start below max 10% and work up. Hope it helps at least it's what your asking.
Actually it is a "great way to help a newbie out". Reading and understanding the manual is critical to safe reloading and allows for the formulation of alternatives when "Plan A" isn't available or practical. What you use in your rifle may not work at all in his and if your preferred load is near the pressure limit, in your gun, it may, in fact, be unsafe in another gun. What if I recommended a type of powder or a bullet and when he went to go get them they weren't available? Without reading the manual, he's back at square one. Looking for help. By doing it himself, he develops self reliance, not dependency.
So yes. I did have his best interests in mind.
The first third or so of a loading manual is background technical information. Before using the book as a recipe book, read the information. it will make the hobby more fulfilling and interesting.
Hoag nailed it.
Hoag nailed it.
Chinbullco
Regular
- Location
- NW Alberta
Hodgdon's load data site has the most up to date loads. When new powders are released load data shows up on Hodgdons before powders are on the retailers shelves.
Giving this man some load recommendations isn't going to help. Neither does "Start below max 10% and work up." 10% below the max loads listed by Hodgdon is below minimum.
You must work up the load for your rifle. I'd be thinking Sierra Pro-hunters or Game kings with IMR4831, IMR7828 or H1000. Those powders give the highest velocities.
You must work up the load for your rifle. I'd be thinking Sierra Pro-hunters or Game kings with IMR4831, IMR7828 or H1000. Those powders give the highest velocities.
Very vague. Not much to go on.
But you didn't. Where is your recommended load data? And you told him to look for powder. Why? Shouldn't you just have told him the data?
Where the hell did you get partitions from? So, 10% below max what? Where are your recommendations?
Yes, he did.
Not always the guy with the answers, but this time Sunray is right. But where did you get gone kings or pro-Hunters?
You guys are throwing bullets around and the OP has only stated the cartridge. What type of hunting? Perhaps it's 1000 yd hunting, pro-hunters would be less efficient than game kings. Is it 50 yd shooting? Then SSTs would blow up.
OP, we really do intend to help, but there are many, many ways to answer an open question like the one you posed. One could have answered, "Yes, I suggest a lead bullet and smokeless powder. I also think the starting point should be at the beginning."
However, we have been here before. A little more info is needed as Hoag stated. Myself, I think there is no hunting in NA that requires a .300WM. But that's me. You have it, info brings more assistance.
