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ryanf

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A friend and I bought a Dillon 550B and have started reloading for 204, 223, and 243 for the time being. We don't know anyone around here to learn from, so we've had to learn more or less just from the interweb and trial and error. The rounds that we have tested seem to shoot very well so far, and we're getting a little more confident in what we're doing. We are basically just interested in being able to work up good loads for coyote hunting for now. We are getting most of our load info from reloadersnest.com.

So, the questions I have are: a few of our 223 rounds seem to not cycle as well through our guns (bolt action, no semi autos here). When closing the bolt, it sometimes requires a bit of extra effort at the end. Its not like we have to really force it, but some just make you push a little harder to get the bolt handle down. Is this normal? I know sometimes it can be a gun issue, but it seems to only do it on certain rounds. We do check the OAL on a few rounds as we reload, and they are all fine. Is there something else we should be checking?

Secondly, I have read a lot of different opinions on whether or not crimping is necessary. So far we only do 223, 204, and 243. Anyone care to share what works well for them?

Also, I would like to be able to get our primers to seat a little deeper into the case. They are flush at best (if they do stick out at all its .01" at most), and I would rather see them 0.05" into the case. Does anyone know how to adjust this on a Dillon 550B? I haven't searched much for a solution yet, but I know the manual that came with the press said to make sure the shell plate is screwed down tight enough, which it is. Any tighter and it gets difficult to turn. We are using once fired Winchester and Hornady brass, none of the bulk/surplus junk.

Thanks for now guys.
 
Are you full length resizing? Rounds fired in one rifle may not fit in another. For load data I uually refer to manuals by the bullet manufacturer or powder manufacturer. Hodgdon has a good sight. (there is a stick at the top of this page to take you there). I can'y help with the rest as I don't use that press.
 
iceman makes a good point. If you bought the brass once fired then it's a must to full length resize. Are all your cases trimmed to the proper length? Be sure to measure AFTER you full length resize if that is the case.

There is no need to crimp bullets when loading for a bolt gun. I'd like to hear some arguments for it actually. There is a chance that a bullet in the mag could unseat a little during recoil if the neck tension is low enough. I doubt that is happening with the cartridges you are currently loading for. (Unless you are neck sizing with an improper bushing) Anyway if that does happen, when you chamber that round from the mag the bullet will be forced into the lands and the tightness you are feeling is the caming action of the bolt reseating the bullet against the rifling. It's a possibility but not likely with the kind of recoil a 204, 223 or 243 would generate. Are you single loading or feeding from a mag.

Are the primer pockets dirty? Full of residue and such? An important step in brass prep is to uniform the primer pockets with a quality tool. That way you can be sure the primers are seated to the proper depth. Not as critical in a bolt gun but if you ever start loading for a semi you better be damn sure your primers aren't proud!

Without changing your setup or methods run a dozen cases through the first stage in your Dillon. Don't even bother pushing the handle fwd to prime them. Then take those cases and chamber them. If the bolt is stiff then perhaps you have a problem with your sizing die set up. If not then there is a problem somewhere else. I could go in to details but lets take it one step at a time. If you can remove the firing pin that would be ideal. That way you can operate the bolt completely free of the tension caused by the firing pin spring. It's the only way to truly set up your sizing die perfectly if you are full length resizing. If any part of the case is not sized properly you can feel it through the bolt. With the firing pin installed subtle sizing problems can be masked by the spring tension. That being said I wouldn't worry too much about it because we're not talking about setting up a rifle for bench rest competition.

You'll get it sorted out. It's just the little hang-ups we all go through when we learn to reload. Soon such little issues will barely even cause you to raise an eyebrow. Good luck!
 
Thanks for the replies guys.
We are using Lee dies, and they are all full-length sizing dies. We use the Dillon case lube, and it makes a big difference vs. no lube at all. We have also ordered a carbide 223 die to try out. I guess maybe we'll play with the resizing die a little bit and see if we can make it better. Would it be a bad idea to fire the rounds that don't feed as well? Or is it not a big issue?

As far as the primer pockets, we have just been tumbling the brass in the corn media with the old primers still in, then punching out the old primers and putting in the new ones at station 1.
 
ryanf said:
Thanks for the replies guys.
We are using Lee dies, and they are all full-length sizing dies. We use the Dillon case lube, and it makes a big difference vs. no lube at all. We have also ordered a carbide 223 die to try out. I guess maybe we'll play with the resizing die a little bit and see if we can make it better. Would it be a bad idea to fire the rounds that don't feed as well? Or is it not a big issue?

As far as the primer pockets, we have just been tumbling the brass in the corn media with the old primers still in, then punching out the old primers and putting in the new ones at station 1.
Click to expand...

When setting up your dies, you want to adjust the die down until it sizes the whole neck of the case, and then very slightly pushes the shoulder back a little bit. If you stopped short and only size the neck, the shoulder of the case will be a press fit to the chamber, which makes it hard to close the bolt.

You don't want to push that shoulder back too much, as that can cause bigger problems with excessive headspace. Adjust the die down in 1/16th turn increments until the bolt closes without great effort.

Even with the carbide .223 dies, you will still need to lube the cases. It's just easier and the carbide dies last longer.

I've never used the 550, but there is almost certainly an adjustment for seating depth for the primers.
 
1) Full length resize
2)check for case length problems
3) DO NOT CRIMP (bolt gun)
4) If all that doesn't help, ditch crappy Lee dies, and buy Redding Deluxe die.
5) Slap self upside the head for buying Lee crap in the first place.
 
ryanf said:
Thanks for the replies guys.
We are using Lee dies, and they are all full-length sizing dies. We use the Dillon case lube, and it makes a big difference vs. no lube at all. We have also ordered a carbide 223 die to try out. I guess maybe we'll play with the resizing die a little bit and see if we can make it better. Would it be a bad idea to fire the rounds that don't feed as well? Or is it not a big issue?

As far as the primer pockets, we have just been tumbling the brass in the corn media with the old primers still in, then punching out the old primers and putting in the new ones at station 1.
Click to expand...

remember the resize die has to go down until it barely touches the shell plate.

.204 dies, there are bad ones and good ones, I have thrown out 2 sets, and now have a ... darn, let me look when I go home. These are nice and concentric, and do not stick cases, but I cannot remember if they are Lee Hornaday or RCBS. I know I tried all 3 before throwing the 2 worst one's out.
 
ryanf said:
Thanks for the replies guys.
We are using Lee dies, and they are all full-length sizing dies. We use the Dillon case lube, and it makes a big difference vs. no lube at all. We have also ordered a carbide 223 die to try out. I guess maybe we'll play with the resizing die a little bit and see if we can make it better. Would it be a bad idea to fire the rounds that don't feed as well? Or is it not a big issue?

As far as the primer pockets, we have just been tumbling the brass in the corn media with the old primers still in, then punching out the old primers and putting in the new ones at station 1.
Click to expand...

Clean your pockets! Well at least once.

You can fire the rounds that don't feed as well. It is just an annoyance really. However, if by chance you are or will be loading very stout loads and if the stiff bolt is cause by the bullet being jammed into the lands, you could run into to excessive pressure problems, especially when the temps warm up.

Another thing you could do to check if your bullet seating depth is the culprit or not is by marking up the ogive of the bullet with a sharpie marker all the way around. Chamber the round then eject it. If the marks left on the bullet (if any) are way longer than they are wide then maybe you should seat the bullets in another .040". There's nothing run with the bullet being pushed into the lands to a point but we're just trying to determine why your bolt feels excessively tight to you.
 
Offical Results for .204 Dies (i just checked the toolhead and the junkpile)

RCBS....................JUNK!
LEE......................JUNK!
Hornady................JUNK!


Winner, that does not stickcases, work the shoulder too much or burr the neck


REDDING! FTW
 
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