New to reloading...

Knottybuoy

Knottybuoy

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My Lee-Loader classic kit is arriving tomorrow from budget shooter supply, and I have everything else I need component wise except some powder (waiting to read the load data in the instructions)

Being my first time reloading any caliber (I'll be reloading .303 british), does anyone have any experience using these kits? Is there anythig I should be aware of that the instructions don't mention?
 
No not really. The kits are simple, easy to use. I use Lee stuff for all my reloading for 12 different calibers and never been an issue. Any questions, just ask.
 
"...any experience using..." Yep. Started out with one in .243. You can load decent ammo with 'em, but throw away the scoops and get a scale. The scoops can vary the powder charge plus or minus a full grain and they're graduated in cc's. CC's are not a standard unit of measure for reloading. Secondly, buy a manual and read it. At least the powder etc chapters. The Lyman book is the best.
You need to slug the barrel of your rifle too. Lee-Enfield barrels can vary in ID between .311" and .315" and still be ok. Over .315" the barrel is shot out. The bullet makers only make .311" or .312" bullets. Neither will be of much use in a .313" or .314" barrel.
 
sunray said:
"...any experience using..." Yep. Started out with one in .243. You can load decent ammo with 'em, but throw away the scoops and get a scale. The scoops can vary the powder charge plus or minus a full grain and they're graduated in cc's. CC's are not a standard unit of measure for reloading. Secondly, buy a manual and read it. At least the powder etc chapters. The Lyman book is the best.
You need to slug the barrel of your rifle too. Lee-Enfield barrels can vary in ID between .311" and .315" and still be ok. Over .315" the barrel is shot out. The bullet makers only make .311" or .312" bullets. Neither will be of much use in a .313" or .314" barrel.
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What is meant by "slug the barrel"? how do you do this? a .312 bullet stops in the muzzle about a 1/4" from the canellure so I'm pretty sure the barrel is in fine shape.

Kit arrived this morning, playing around with it a little, decapping and resizing my brass. neat little kit!
 
TargetAcquired said:
Spolier alert - IMR4895, readily available from Henry @ Budget Shooter Supply. Order now so you can start sooner.
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The IMR4895 is listed for use with a 150 grain bullet, I'm using 174 grain, it doesn't include that powder for that bullet weight...The only common powder listed between the two bullet weights is H-Varget
 
Check a decent reloading manual for powder choices for the 174 gr bullets....

You can use a lighter bullet with a powder charge specified for a heavier bullet, but not the other way around. In the vast majority of loads I've made or checked the recipes for, the heavier bullets have a lighter maximum powder charge. If you were to take a maximum charge for a given bullet, then replace the bullet with a heavier one, you've set yourself up for an overload, along with the likelihood of nasty things happening....


Stan
 
I agree on the need for a good reloading manual....or two or three.
I would also say, don't just use them for recipes. Read them! They are full of good information.
 
yeah Ill definitely look into a reloading manual, but for the moment Ill stick with the load data given with the kit - its obviously a highly technical hobby with a bit of a learning curve when it comes to getting the charge right. Here's what the load data lists for a 174gr bullet, which one of these are the easiest to find?

BL-C(2) - Budget Shooter supply has this one but only in 8lbs which is too much for me right now
v-N540
v-N140
Ram Big Game
H-Varget
H414
Win 760
Hybrid 100
 
Just checked reliable gun's website and they have BL-C(2) by the pound so I'll pick some up there and practice with that load to begin till I get more confidence to play around with different charges.

thanks for everyone's input!
 
Well - BL - C(2) is a fine ball powder, generally requiring magnum rifle primers. I've not had much luck with it. RE-15 has consistently worked the best for me, closely followed by IMR 4064.
 
Get a good load manual as there is a lot of good info on the process as well as loading data. I also use the powder manu. web sites for data. Don't worry about slugging the barrel, a soft lead slug is used not an actual jacketed bullet, it is pushed through the barrel then measured to determine actual diameters. Just use .311 or .312 bullets for shooting and you will be fine. Enjoy your new hobby.
 
cosmic said:
Well - BL - C(2) is a fine ball powder, generally requiring magnum rifle primers. I've not had much luck with it. RE-15 has consistently worked the best for me, closely followed by IMR 4064.
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I've heard some people say that they've had the best results with ball powder in Lee-Enfields - anyone else care to weigh in on that?
 
Knottybuoy said:
yeah Ill definitely look into a reloading manual, but for the moment Ill stick with the load data given with the kit - its obviously a highly technical hobby with a bit of a learning curve when it comes to getting the charge right. Here's what the load data lists for a 174gr bullet, which one of these are the easiest to find?

BL-C(2) - Budget Shooter supply has this one but only in 8lbs which is too much for me right now
v-N540
v-N140
Ram Big Game
H-Varget
H414
Win 760
Hybrid 100
Click to expand...

My $0.02; you might want to consider getting into the manuals, or at least perusing some online resources, sooner rather than later. Besides getting the powder charge right, there are issues related to case trimming and flaw/overpressure recognition you'd be wise to investigate. I don't use or reload .303 but, as has been pointed out for you above, there may be issues related to that particular cartridge you'll want to be aware of before rushing into the chambering of rounds. The discovery is part of the fun.
 
HKMark23 said:
My $0.02; you might want to consider getting into the manuals, or at least perusing some online resources, sooner rather than later. Besides getting the powder charge right, there are issues related to case trimming and flaw/overpressure recognition you'd be wise to investigate. I don't use or reload .303 but, as has been pointed out for you above, there may be issues related to that particular cartridge you'll want to be aware of before rushing into the chambering of rounds. The discovery is part of the fun.
Click to expand...

Yes, I have been perusing online resources on the subject, and until I have gained some experience and confidence with the whole process, including observing what happens when its finally ready to go bang, I won't be straying from the exact letter of the instructions and starting load data that came with my lee loader kit.

EDIT:
There's also many youtube videos that show what to look for in signs of overpressure or case wear, which is good to get a visual reference. I'm using once fired Prvi Partisan brass, all the primers checked out fine before I decapped them (no cratering or anything), the primer pockets were all tight, and apart from the normal case expansion (which was pretty minimal, I'm lucky to have a No.4 with a tighter chamber than most I've come across), I'm not using any brass that shows excessive wear. For case length, the next tool I will aquire will be a lee case trimmer, which to my understanding, will trim the brass to the correct size with no need to measure. Comparing my once fired brass to new factory rounds, are still the same length @ exactly 56mm
 
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Knottybuoy said:
Yes, I have been perusing online resources on the subject, and until I have gained some experience and confidence with the whole process, including observing what happens when its finally ready to go bang, I won't be straying from the exact letter of the instructions and starting load data that came with my lee loader kit.

EDIT:
There's also many youtube videos that show what to look for in signs of overpressure or case wear, which is good to get a visual reference. I'm using once fired Prvi Partisan brass, all the primers checked out fine before I decapped them (no cratering or anything), the primer pockets were all tight, and apart from the normal case expansion (which was pretty minimal, I'm lucky to have a No.4 with a tighter chamber than most I've come across), I'm not using any brass that shows excessive wear. For case length, the next tool I will aquire will be a lee case trimmer, which to my understanding, will trim the brass to the correct size with no need to measure. Comparing my once fired brass to new factory rounds, are still the same length @ exactly 56mm
Click to expand...

If you haven't got one already, a 6" dial caliper is a tremendously useful thing for reloading. There are lots of things in reloading that you may want (need) to measure to 0.001"... Case length is one of them.
The calipers don't need to bet Starrett or Mitutoyo, the Princess Auto / CTC ones will suffice for accuracy. BTW, I have both a dial and a digital caliper, but I like the idea of not having to worry about a battery for the dial caliper...

As you mentioned, the Lee trimmer is pretty easy to use; I find it quicker to measure all my brass, and trim only the ones that are too long.
 
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