New to shotguns, a question or two.

LeeEnfieldNo.4_mk1

LeeEnfieldNo.4_mk1

CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Rating - 100%
28   0   0
Location
Alberta
So, Never really been into shotguns. I am a rifle guy with pistols on the side. However, shot some clay's with a few friends not long ago, it was not any formal discipline but was fun none the less. So, decided to get into shotgunning for some casual clay shooting.

Got on old Browning Auto-5 12 guage not sure on choke, Don't have it at the moment so can't look at it. figure it should do the trick. now the question is, what should I be looking for for shells? Its an older Auto-5 so I would imagine no steel shot? just looking for some easy target loads for now, maybe hunting down the road since why not.

I know nothing about shotguns so any input would be appreciated.
 
The most important part in determining if your barrel is okay for steel shot is the choke. Anything tighter than modified is a no go. You fire steel from that and you're going to bulge the barrel or even crack it. Steel can't compress like lead can. The second part that determines if the gun is safe for steel is whats called Fleur de Lys proof mark. A barrel not rated for hard steel will gouge the barrel if steel is fired.

Just buy the standard target loads in the 250rd flats. 7.5 shot with a modified choke is pretty standard for trap from the 16 yard line. Remington, Winchester, Federal, Challenger, Score, Clever. Take your pick. Number 8 and even 9 is better suited for skeet while 7.5, 8, or 9 are all suitable for sporting clays.

For hunting upland game birds, my favorite load is a 2 3/4" 12 gauge or a 3" 20 gauge with a 1 1/8oz load of copper coated lead #6.
 
Read up on how to set up the friction rings on the auto 5 too, if you've not already done so. I've seen guys mucking and messing with them, trying to get the thing to function properly.

Mines an old 1953 model. I set it up for maximum friction, very lightly oil the tube with CLP or Ballistol, and it functions great with 1 oz loads.
 
The Auto-V is a great gun, built like a Swiss tank. Find out the choke and report back to us. And some pictures would be nice, too. The gun could either be a 2-3/4" gun or a magnum gun. Just use target loads, #7.5 shot for practice. That will break clays out to 40 yards.

Since you are new to wingshooting, it is up to you to shoot all the misses out of that new gun!
 
If your looking to shoot your A-5 informally trap/skeet with the boys then Number 7 lead of your brand choice is all you will need.
Years ago when i first started hunting ducks and geese we would go to crappy tire and buy a case of clays and several boxes of number 7's and have at it.
Nothing fancy nothing serious...well till it got to about 15 or 16 straight that is.
Anyways, the full choke handicaps you because of the tight pattern close up, but you can smash them at 40yrds or better if they are still flying that far .
Rob
 
Got the shotgun. its a Magnum model. anyone recommend a shell it likes. its older so lead would be what I would like. I tried some federal 2 3/4 target loads and it did not like them at all. Barely cycled and didn't feed very well. Set it up with minimal friction rigs as per the browning Manuel.
 
Has it been cleaned recently?
You Tube has some great guys and gals who have taken these guns down and show what and where to look for trouble spots.
The best part about you tube is you can search many different clips and find the ones you like before taking ones gun down.
Then when it is time to reassemble after having watched the clip 3 or 4 times is one can go back a few steps if one is confused or it appears something isn't lining up correctly.
By taking down and cleaning , I mean the trigger group out and the breach block assembly.
Dawn dish soap and hot water from the tea kettle for the metal parts..springs too and an old tooth brush.
Spray with G96 upon reassembly and hopefully no spare parts left over.
Rob
 
How light are the loads. I'm wondering if your shooting 7/8 Oz and its having a hard time cycling. I have a few semi's that have a hard time running light loads. Expecially since it's a magnum. It may require a bit more kick to push that bolt back.
 
It has not been detailed cleaned but I lubed it up with some fresh G96 before I shot it. It looks clean as well with a clean carrier and internals. SHould also note remington target loads ran fine. But would like to know another few brands incase I can't find these particular loads.

As for the loads themselves. both were 1 1/8 ounce target loads.

Also, how can you tell if a load is lead? I can't see any markings on the boxes that indicate specifically lead shot. Only way I know is the shop told me they were lead.
 
That magnum gun may not be able to cycle target loads. It was designed as a heavy duck/goose hunting gun, with commensurate heavy loads. A field load of 1-3/8 oz might have been the lightest it was designed for. If you set the rings for the 2-3/4" loads, and lube the magazine tube one drop at a time, you might be able to get it cycling. Might.
 
Grouse Man said:
That magnum gun may not be able to cycle target loads. It was designed as a heavy duck/goose hunting gun, with commensurate heavy loads. A field load of 1-3/8 oz might have been the lightest it was designed for. If you set the rings for the 2-3/4" loads, and lube the magazine tube one drop at a time, you might be able to get it cycling. Might.
Click to expand...


Kinda what I was thinking. My SBE sometimes hangs up on the light target loads
 
Just tried another brand, same problems. One thing that's happening that also happened with the federal, is the bolt is cycling back enough to lock back, however is not loading another shell. It looks like when a shell is fed from the magazine onto the lifting gate (lack of proper terminology) a second shell follows and stick out enough and prevents the lifting gate from lifting the shell and allowing the bolt to unlock and feed the shell into the chamber. Was having the same issue with federals the other day, but Remingtons ran fine for some reason.

I did try lightly oiling the friction rings and that did allow the Remington to function. Problem is I can't find any more of them around here.

The Manuel did state that 2 3/4 shell should function.

Im going to try a strip down, maybe its dirtier then it looks. Problem is these are not easy to strip down.
 
Last edited:
The A5 is like any other gun, it can be disassembled if you use care and follow the instructions. BUT. One slip of the screwdriver and you mar that big flat beautiful polished receiver. So strip it down as a last resort. There is an alternate way.

Remove the forearm and barrel. Also remove the stock butt (look online for instructions). There is a bolt return spring in there which you will want to clean and inspect. They do accumulate gunk, rust, etc. and could be hampering function.

Now that you only have metal parts to handle, use your favourite solvent to start loosening up old oil and grease. After that has soaked for a while, clean the receiver out now with lots of boiling hot water, or a pressure washer, garden hose, etc. You really want to blast everything out of there. Hit it with compressed air if you have it, or use the boiling water and shake it out really well. NOW go outside and spray the hell out of it with brake cleaner. Brake cleaner will destroy any finish on wood. And all that water wouldn't be friendly either, so that's why the stock stays off during cleaning.

So at this point the metalwork of the gun should be clean, preferably hot, but absolutely no oil or lube. Give it a good spray in and out, making sure to get into nooks and crannies and firing pin holes and bolt handle slides, etc. Use a thin, modern synthetic like G96 or BreakFree.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom