New to the 10/22 Family - What Modification do you all recommend

F

fljp2002

Regular
Rating - 100%
15   0   0
Location
Moncton
So I broke down and picked up a 10/22 this morning. My local store had 20% off all in stock firearm so after taxes and rebate I ended up paying $303.59 for a 10/22 carbine model.

I have been looking for a while in the EE section and could not find anything that could beat buying new at that price.

This will be a build fun rifle for plincking. (My CZ 455 is my target gun).

So I plan to put a 4x scope or red dot on it.

I will eventually put it on a boyd evo or baracuda or richards Tac-Driver.

I will be be changing the recoil buffer to Volqartsen.

For a fun gun, what else do you all recommend.

image by fljp, on Flickr
 
Congrats! First mod would be the auto-bolt mod to make dropping the bolt a lot easier. Another recommended upgrade is the Volquartsen Hammer, changes the trigger weight from 6 pounds to 3 pounds. After that its all up to you. You can upgrade the stock to a hogue, boyds, titan or other. If you are putting a scope on it, you will need to find a way to adjust the cheek height to get a solid sight picture.
Its also worth trying a bunch of ammo out to see what works best for your rifle.

There's some videos on rimfire shooting and the 10/22 here: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCOdobJyntn4zA1t1vr0rFoA

Enjoy the rifle.
 
Advice if your getting FTE when you first start shooting it don't fret or start spending dough on extracters and such until you've put maybe 500 rnds through it as should smooth out the overspray from casting inside the action where the bolt rides. I bought 2 a couple yrs ago and at first couldn't get through a mag without a FTE but after a few hundred rounds they run smooth as silk.
 
Congrats on your new acquisition. Be carful with the Ruger mods. It can become an uncontrollable sickness. Ask my wife LOL. After countless 10/22 purchases and thousands of dollars in mod parts. I will now say keep it simple. Tuffer Buffer, BX trigger, Bolt mod, freefloat the barrel and ditch the barrel band. Then shoot the heck out of it and have fun.
 
If it were me I would not even shoot it once until I did the following:

1) Do the bolt hold open mod
2) Improve the trigger
3) Install a Volquartsen extractor
4) Install a minimum 2-7x scope (there are some great inexpensive scopes available in that power, I would not even consider a 4x)

Good luck with whatever you decide and be sure to try a variety of ammo to see what this rifle likes.
Cheers
TEG

ps: I'm not sure if your rifle has a slot head or hex head takedown screw holding the stock onto the barrel, but if it is a slot I would also upgrade to a hex head TD screw immediately.
 
Last edited:
I agree, do the auto bolt release modification, It is easy.
When these guns are new something has to be done with the trigger. IMOHO.
You may know someone who can take it down to around 2 pounds by doing a trigger job.
There is a drop in kit made by KIDD that gives a beautiful trigger pull.

These are not required, but I am very happy I put one on mine.
A friend and I free floated a 20" Stainless Kidd Heavy Barrel. The rifle is an absolute tack driver.
Be warned though these barrels, though excellent are in the neighbourhood of $300.00
No matter what you do though, Enjoy your new rifle.
 
Keep it stock!!! as soon as you start adding after market parts to it it becomes a vicious cycle and you will end up spending 3 times more than the rifle first cost you...lol...
 
Auto bolt release (using a Dremel is fast and easy). After that, the trigger (assuming you already did the bolt buffer as you mentioned). A drop-in KIDD or VQ will transform the rifle, but will cost nearly as much as the entire gun did. It's worth it if you can accept that inevitably you're going to replace every part on the rifle anyway though :evil:
 
I have just started my walk down the 10/22 path but have done a bunch of the simple mods to the stock rifle. Here's what I have done.
1. Auto bolt drop- pretty easy to do and worth the 10-15 mins of work it takes.
2. Remove overspray from inside of reciever- I used a Scotchbrite pad and it came out nice and shiny and smooth. Cleaned it thoroughly after. Tip: if you don't want to remove the barrel plug the chamber with a spent case to stop debris from entering the barrel.
3. Polish bolt- I polished any surface that makes contact with the reciever using a piece of glass with fine grit sand paper down to 1000 grit. I also gave the guide rod a polish as well as the flat spot on the charging handle where it contacts the reciever. I am a fan of moly paste and burnish these surfaces with a very small amount of moly in the final polish
4. Radius the bolt- I did this before the bolt polish but didn't take enough the first time although it did make a difference.
5. Polish the hammer- I polished the area where the bolt contacts the hammer and also the area where the sear makes contact.
6. Made my own bolt buffer- i bought a small coil of 1/4" tubing and slipped a piece of drill rod inside and trimmed to fit. Works like a charm and for the $5 I paid for the tubing I could make about 100 buffers

i am pretty mechanically inclined as I work with my hands but these are all pretty simple mods that will make a noticable difference ( or at least did for me).

Mike
 
I bought a Power Custom kit, and had AC Douglas fit it up. Also upgraded the extractor, bolt buffer, and the action screw to hex. So nice with the Ruger and having an over travel stop. It’s really nice for chasing gophers in the field with the red dot lol. I have not touched the barrel or stock as it’s the “boat paddle “ version.
 
^^^^ I disagree, they work pretty good most times, I think that some fellas go overboard with the mods and create some of their own problems.
I did the hold open mod and lightened the trigger pull by polishing up the stock trigger parts. ( lots of youtube videos to show you how) mounted a 3x9 scope and its a great rifle that shoots pretty good. After about 1500 rounds its time for disassembly and a good cleaning.
 
Something else you can do that costs you nothing and I found can make considerable difference in accuracy is playing around with the torque on your action screw. If you have an inch pound torque wrench, great, if not, just do it by feel and index the screw. It can make a huge difference in your groups, not always, but quite often.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom