I just bought a savage model 10mcmillan. With warne scope mount (20moa) and leupold 30mm rings (med). And a burris black diamond 6X-24X-50mm. Thats my lay out. My queston is, when attaching your base and rings, did you use lock tight, or just tightened it normally.
New to this
- Thread starter Emslie
- Start date
I use lock-tite on the base screws and on all the threads of the scope rings too. Chasing zeroes with a loose scope is pain in the ass.
Not everyone agrees with using it, but if you use the blue stuff and use it on the threads only it bonds extremely well and is not impossible to remove if or when required.
Not everyone agrees with using it, but if you use the blue stuff and use it on the threads only it bonds extremely well and is not impossible to remove if or when required.
Mystic Precision
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Summerland, BC
Get some aerosol brake clearner and spray the thread holes in the action. Paper towel on the action side will catch the overspray.
Now when you use the blue loctite the is no fear of it loosening.
With some recent major headaches traced back to loose base screws, I am also epoxying the bases to the action. I never want a scope base to go loose while in competition.
Jerry
Now when you use the blue loctite the is no fear of it loosening.
With some recent major headaches traced back to loose base screws, I am also epoxying the bases to the action. I never want a scope base to go loose while in competition.
Jerry
- Location
- Vancouver Island BC
Epoxying the bases.....good idea Jerry.
Kodiak99317
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Saskatchewan, Canada
That's why I use Hart rings on my Hunter Benchrest (HBR) rifles. No bases required, rings screw right to the action. One less thing to go "loose" eh. I have a base go loose in a BR National match. Found it, but way too late to come back. HBR is sudden death, you drop one point and you may as well pak up cause ya' aint win'n.
On my LongRange (LR) rifles, I use Burris Signature rings with the insert centers on 20 Moa modified Weaver rings. Watched my LR smith put it together and he cleaned and used blue Loctite on all the screws, except the ring screws.
To get my scope level, I used a heavy gauge steel ruler held against the flat top sleeved action, then a good level on this. This is to level the rifle left/right in my soft jawwed vise. I then move the ruler/level up to the top scope cap, to level the scope, left/right. This works... I shoot of a level rest.
The other way is to hang a plum bob on a string (or a nut on a string) at 100 yds and turn your scope left/right so the hair lines up with the string. This will align you, and the way you hold your rifle, and your scope so it is plum so clicks up only go up, not up and left, or up and right.
This is called Cant and it is critical!! I read in PS (June 1997) A one degree error in this at 1800 yds is two minutes out of line, or 3' on the target and at 2640 yds, one degree is 4.4 minutes out or 10' out!
i.e., if your scope x hair is out of line, not plum, as you add elevation, you are also walking to the left if the hair is is top left, bottom right, hope you get it... it must to dead on... plum
The other thing that is critical is the bullet. VLD's or BT with a high BC is what you want, and you don't have to drive'em at max, but close to it. You want a good velocity with great accuracy for testing at SR (300 yds) and what works there should work at LR, but test before you have to depend on it... Enjoy and welcome to LR
900 yds.... 1 moa out if one degree of cant, approx 9.4" out
On my LongRange (LR) rifles, I use Burris Signature rings with the insert centers on 20 Moa modified Weaver rings. Watched my LR smith put it together and he cleaned and used blue Loctite on all the screws, except the ring screws.
To get my scope level, I used a heavy gauge steel ruler held against the flat top sleeved action, then a good level on this. This is to level the rifle left/right in my soft jawwed vise. I then move the ruler/level up to the top scope cap, to level the scope, left/right. This works... I shoot of a level rest.
The other way is to hang a plum bob on a string (or a nut on a string) at 100 yds and turn your scope left/right so the hair lines up with the string. This will align you, and the way you hold your rifle, and your scope so it is plum so clicks up only go up, not up and left, or up and right.
This is called Cant and it is critical!! I read in PS (June 1997) A one degree error in this at 1800 yds is two minutes out of line, or 3' on the target and at 2640 yds, one degree is 4.4 minutes out or 10' out!
i.e., if your scope x hair is out of line, not plum, as you add elevation, you are also walking to the left if the hair is is top left, bottom right, hope you get it... it must to dead on... plum
The other thing that is critical is the bullet. VLD's or BT with a high BC is what you want, and you don't have to drive'em at max, but close to it. You want a good velocity with great accuracy for testing at SR (300 yds) and what works there should work at LR, but test before you have to depend on it... Enjoy and welcome to LR
900 yds.... 1 moa out if one degree of cant, approx 9.4" out
Last edited:
Glock4ever
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Edmonton, AB
I use the blue Thread locker from Loctite. It comes off but ensures that the screws don't back off.
I'm new to this too. When mounting my scope recently, I followed what I found to be the most common advice at the time. I put (blue) Loctite on the base screw threads after cleaning them, and the holes, with acetone. I used NO Loctite on the rings.
So far so good but only 15 shots (.338LM) fired to date.
So far so good but only 15 shots (.338LM) fired to date.
