Newb Question after range report

Generally as the bullet weight goes up, the powder weight goes down. This is to keep the pressures down as a heavier bullet takes longer accelerate.
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Yes I know. that's not what I'm asking about though.

The Lymann manual only shows one Nosler bullet. It lists it at 52gr max. Nosler themselves say 50gr max. So for the nosler bullet, the Lymann manual is actually 2gr hotter than nosler's manual.

However, when the Lymann manual talks about a different brand of bullet, suddenly, they're no longer hotter than nosler's manual, they're 2.5gr less hot.

So is the nosler bullet actually that much better able to handle hotter loads? It would certainly appear so...
 
you are using an IMR powder check the hodgens on-line data,see what they say.they make the powder.just checked the data.
180 sie spbt start 45.0/max 47.8,pressure on max load 58 000 psi
168 hdy hpbt 46.0/ 49.7 58 400
165 sie spbt 48.0 51.2 58 600
150 nos bt 49.0 52.3 58 000
all max loads have roughly the same pressure,other powders listed for the different bullets have way less pressure with more powder.it all depends on the burn rate.the length of your barrel will also effect the pressures created.short barrel will have less pressure than a longer one.the highest pressure i saw for a maxload in 30-06 with any powder hodgens handles was 59 000 psi.
 
Hmm...well I've been loading what nosler recommends (49gr) which is 1.2gr heavier than what Hodgens says is the max. It seems to be fine. That's with a HPBT though - I've noticed that in the Lymann manuals, the nosler ballistic tips and accubonds can all handle more powder than the other bullets.

Oh well, seems to be working.

Meh.
 
Since the name of the game is accuracy not speed, it isn't important to try achieve max loads IMO.

Since there are so many factors that come into play(barrel length, tightness of chamber ,bullets and cases, etc.....)I kinda went way to other extreme of the curve.

I took all my manuals, compared data for loads, barrel length etc. and went to below the lowest published charge and worked up in increments.

I let the groups and their spreads speak for themselves while ignoring velocities but still recording to determine the most consistent charges.

I never had issues with pressure or trying to make hot loads, just always found accuracy at less than max loads, and some loads were actually very low and still producing moderate velocities.

Just reporting what works for me on new load development and my thought process through the testing.

Start safe and low and let the patterns do the talking, starting @100 yards of course.
 
I agree with Kelly, i`ve found my most accurate loads are usually a grain or 2 lower than max in most of my rifles. As far as published loads they are a good starting point, but i don`t like running back and forth between books. Pick one good source, i perfer the powder company. Everybody has a different way of reloading after a few years, usually get to the same place thou.
 
Thanks for the input guys.

I'm not doing some loading for 223 and I'm starting with 20 rounds of the recommended start load of 26.1gr of H335 and 20 rounds of 27.5gr. The max load is listed at 29gr.

I will try them both and then load another batch based on the results.

As for the 30'06, well, I have 40+ left already loaded and they show no signs of pressure so I might as well shoot 'em off...
 
The scope doesn't have an adjustable parallax so I can barely see the cross hairs and the parallax is horrible.
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There is a way to work around this.

When you shoot, set yourself up so that your eye is "too far back" from the scope - so that you see only a partial image inside the rear eyepiece. Notice how if you move your eye up or down, or left or right, the image moves around in the eyepiece.

As you aim each shot, move your eye so that this partial image is centred up in your eyepiece, then aim and fire your shot. This way you can know that your eye was in the exact same position for each shot, and therefore the parallax for each shot was exactly the same.
 
It is a hazardous practice to pick the max load out of any manual, load that load and shoot it.
The listed load may be conservative in some rifles, and may be over max in others.
Custom barrels tend to be more consistent [and slightly tighter] than factory offerings.
Many factory chambers have long throats, which reduce pressures somewhat.
Changing from one bullet manufacturer to another can be a factor, since I have seen bullets marketed as .308" diameter, that actually measured .3089", which is close to a thousandth oversize.
On the other side of that, I have measured 308 bullets that barely made .307"
There are so many factors that can alter pressures that is is simply good practice to work up from below max listed loads [I use 6%, some prefer 10%]
You may be able to safely exceed listed maximums in SOME rifles, but your chrony is your friend here.
You need to know how fast your projectile is going when it leaves that barrel to have an indication of pressures.
Additionally, be aware that the fastest load may not shoot the highest on the target.
As has been mentioned, no point in introducing paranoia to the mix. Just apply common sense liberally.
I have not managed to blow up any rifles, and I have been reloading since 1963.
Regards, Eagleye
 
Also food for thought is that max loads listed are tested under varying conditions and temps, as in they are meant to be safe presumably all the time.

If you mess to much above the max and the temp changes results could definatly be unwanted explosion of a firearm in your hands
 
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