Newbie and the 6.5X55 Swede

ontgunner

ontgunner

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I've done the standard searches, so hopefully I won't make you guys cover too much old ground here.
As the title states, I'm new to the reloading world (haven't even bought any powder yet!).

The one rifle cartride I'll be reloading for now will be this dandy.
So here's what I'd like to know.

1 - From what I've read, as I'm a one rifle (of this calibre) man, I should be neck sizing... am I right? I'm fairly sure I'll be going with RCBS dies for this venture.

2 - Further to the above, why does one neck sizing die cost about the same as the two in a full length resizing set? Will I need this other (I suspect de-capping) die?

3 - I don't yet own a case trimmer... will I need one?

Well, I think that's it for now.
If you've got any tidbits or little tricks for loading this round you'd like to share, that would be great.

If it helps, I'll be shooting a Husky built M96 sporter. I'll also be loading mild rounds, as I'm not into pain and don't plan on dropping any elephants in the near future.
 
Like you said, if you re-use the brass for the same bolt action rifle, then neck sizing is perfect. I have a Lee Loader for the 6.5X55, it's very simple to use, it's cheap and it only neck sizes. I'm not too sure about using the measured scoops for the powder so I also have a scale. If you're wondering about which powder to try, I use H414 with great results. (use magnum primers with this powder, they have been proven to be more efficient)
Regarding case trimming, I always check the brass for correct length and I use the Lee case trimmer, again it's cheap, foolproof and the cutter and shell holder can be used for other calibers, just change the rod.
I hope this helps some!
 
ditto on the scale perferably a digital as i found the balance scales are not as accurate. I never used the measuring cups at all.. If you load only a few casings, a hand trimmer will suffice.I used one when I only had the 6.5 x55 Swede, but I have since added many calibers, so I have a pro trimmer. Several good loading books are a necessity, and a good understanding of the loads for your caliber. The reason for the pricing is that it takes about the same time to machine a neck only sizer as it does for a full length.
 
1- Yes... but I still like to do a full lenght re-size the first time I use a piece of brass

2- Except for the 7.5x55 for the K31, I reload everything else using Lee Deluxe Rifle Die... Works good for me.

3- Yes, case lenght is very important... The Lee case trimmer works good and is quite inexpensive

If you are looking for reloading supplies, Andrew is a great guy to deal with.

Higginson Powders Phone: 613-632-9300
2708 Hwy 34
Hawksbury , Ontario K6A-2T1
http://www.higginsonpowders.com/

Once you're comfortable reloading, you'll have to try your hand at casting ;)
 
Thanks for the input guys... I'm sure I'll have more questions as I get further into this.
As for casting, sillymike, the thought has crossed my mind, as 38/357 will probably be the calibre I load the most!
 
everything said here is good, but would like to add that just neck sizing is great I do it to but if you are hunting with this amo sometime it is a little tight going in the chamber so it is a good idea to test fit all the amo you are taking hunting.

i use varget for my 6.5x55 cant remember the gr right off hand but can find out if you like,I have shot 1"1/4 groups with it.
 
No one mentioned that you only neck size the brass that has been already fired in YOUR gun. Do not just neck size brass you may have bought or found at the range. That stuff has to be full length sized, THEN once you've fired it in your gun, then you can neck size.
I just trimmed and chamfered 200 .223 cases. I used that little thimble like chamferer from Lee. Never again...its fine if you have 50 cases to do but then it dulls. At least mine did.
 
Two suggestions; first is that when I neck size, I use the full length sizer and stop about 1/16" short of a full length size. Because of the tapered case, I am not sizing the body of the shell. Second point is that the 6.5 Swedes that I had, apparently had longer chambers than my dies were made for so that if I full length sized the cases, the shoulder was too far back and I got case separations after about 3 shots. I would suggest neck sizing only just to guard against that problem.

cheers mooncoon
 
Great choice of caliber. Nice hunting round that's for sure. Want to support what others are saying here. You will definitely need to trim cases. Cases actually stretched quite a bit in any Swedes I have owned. I would certainly have a die set that included a full length resizing die for the reasons stated above by others and if I had to choose only one die it would be a full length die. That having been said, I certainly have hunted with neck sized rounds with no trouble and I know guys who do this routinely. When I hunt with neck sized reloads I always chamber my rounds before going on the trip and I restrict my reloads to my own rifle, like the other guys have said. The only round I would give to someone else is a factory issue one. Good luck with the caliber you have chosen. There are some nice days ahead. fred
 
ontgunner said:
I've done the standard searches, so hopefully I won't make you guys cover too much old ground here.
As the title states, I'm new to the reloading world (haven't even bought any powder yet!).

The one rifle cartride I'll be reloading for now will be this dandy.
So here's what I'd like to know.

1 - From what I've read, as I'm a one rifle (of this calibre) man, I should be neck sizing... am I right? I'm fairly sure I'll be going with RCBS dies for this venture.

2 - Further to the above, why does one neck sizing die cost about the same as the two in a full length resizing set? Will I need this other (I suspect de-capping) die?

3 - I don't yet own a case trimmer... will I need one?

Well, I think that's it for now.
If you've got any tidbits or little tricks for loading this round you'd like to share, that would be great.

If it helps, I'll be shooting a Husky built M96 sporter. I'll also be loading mild rounds, as I'm not into pain and don't plan on dropping any elephants in the near future.
Click to expand...


1. RCBS dies are good, so is Lee. Also Redding, Lyman, and Hornady. Get whichever you can get the best price on (probably LEE).

2. You need a 2 die set to reload rifle cartridges: a resizing/decapping die, and a bullet seating die. The resizing die can be full length or neck sizing only. It is possible to neck size with a full length die.

3. get a Lee hand held case trimmer setup, it will cost about $12 for the cutter, cartridge holder, and a 6.5x55 cutting guide. Yes you need it.

4. I suggest you buy a Lyman Reloading manual and read the first several chapters, which has a very good description of how to reload and what is needed in an easy step-by-step format. Will be the best investment you can make when you start reloading.
 
Thanks again all for the input.
It looks like a Lee deluxe die set will be ordered, as well as a case trimmer of some sort.
As far as books go, I'm well into the Lyman guide, started reading the ABC's (7th edition, 8th is on order), and picked up an oldie call Metallic Cartridge Reloading (doesn't even mention the 6.5X55).
I'm hoping to get invited on a hunt this year, and plan on working up a couple of good loads (140gr & 160gr), as well as a target load (probably in 120 gr).
 
Since this ammo will eventually go hunting, I would like to offer a few other tips.

Size the cases as you would hunt with them. Odds are the chamber you have will be on the big side so FL sizing WILL NOT BE EFFECTIVE. Case separation in short order and a chance for poor or different accuracy then your neck sized ammo.

Get the Lee delux die set, a Redding body die, a hand primer like the Lee, a way to weigh your charges (I have used a Lee balance scale forever), a trimmer (again, Lee is fine).

When you size, you bump your shoulder with the redding body die just enough to ensure easy chambering THEN you decap and deprime using the collet neck die. You end up with very straight brass that are a custom fit to YOUR chamber and your chamber alone.

The two steps ensures that your brass does not overly stretch and break in a few firings. Plus you know that all the practise you have done is with exactly the same loads you will hunt with. For practise loads, you can hold off the body bump until it starts to get a smidge stiff to chamber. For the hunting ammo, every single time so there can never be a sticky case.

I would also recommend a primer pocket cleaner of some kind. I use a Dewey. The Lee SUCKS. A deburring tool for the flashhole and case necks is a good investment. Both of mine are by RCBS.

For bullets, the 123gr Lapua would be an absolute hoot to shoot at reduced loads IF the throat is not too long. Otherwise, the 140gr Amax, 139gr Lapua would be good choices.

For bullets, I like the SST's and have had great success with them. Get the heaviest they make.

H4831SC should work very well for full hunting loads. H4895 and Varget for reduced loads/lighter bullets. See the Hodgdon site for reduced load info.

CCI BR2 primers will likely provide superb ignition but most LR primers will work.

Enjoy your rifle.

Jerry
 
mysticplayer said:
Since this ammo will eventually go hunting, I would like to offer a few other tips.

Size the cases as you would hunt with them. Odds are the chamber you have will be on the big side so FL sizing WILL NOT BE EFFECTIVE. Case separation in short order and a chance for poor or different accuracy then your neck sized ammo.

Enjoy your rifle.

Jerry
Click to expand...

Want to argue here Jerry. I worked with alot of 6.5's that gave good accuracy with full-length resizing, (probably 16 or so; 14 for sure) and reloaded for all of them. I did use a case gage to set my full-length die so that the shoulder was bumped a minimal amount. I have also heard the argument that full-length resizing can be superior in firearms that are slightly out of alignment (probably gas guns?). I know that most people neck size for alot of things and, in fact I do routinely in target rifles. It is less hassle to do for one thing, and I'm making the assumption I might gain some accuracy. But, I'm still not convinced that neck sizing results in much gain in the accuracy department. At least I couldn't demonstrate this to myself with much certainty when I compared my bushing style neck sizer to my RCBS Competition full length die in my 308. I'm doing the same thing with my 6BR right now and things are very close. Maybe at benchrest levels things would be different, the 308 was accurate but not by benchrest standards (neither is the 6BR, though it is closer). I've wondered how much one gains in case longevity too if the die is set correctly for full-length sizing. The biggest variable for case life imho is how hot the loads are. ;)fred
 
Fred, the reason for my two step approach is to ensure that none of the issues that might crop up with a FL sizer has to be dealt with. Including:

- runout introduced during the sizing stage.
- partial sizing leaving a bulge at the base of the neck which can cause chambering issues. A different form of donut.
- sizing that overworks the shoulder and/or web which can reduce case life. Possible in max chamber w/min spec die.
- reducing the case alignment with the chamber/bore if in a max chamber/min die situation.
- increasing case growth by pulling the necks forward with the expander ball
- having varying neck tension if lube is not properly used or removed.

As this was asked by a novice, unlikely to have the tools and info to check for any of these issues. FL sizing can work and I have used it on several rifles over the years but I have the resources to ensure success.

There has only been two times with FL sizing was necessary. One was a WWI rifle where the chamber was bulged and the FL die was the only way to iron out that bulge (smart thing would have been to ditch the rifle instead). Secondly, when I did have a banana chamber and FL sizing did help in allowing for chambering and some decent accuracy. Again, better off putting on a new pipe.

The other few times, I was 'lucky' that the die and chamber were a good fit and I had excellent luck using a FL sizer. That is likely your situation with your 308 and 6BR. You FL sizers are a close fit to the chamber so little gain is seen using a neck sizer alone.

As always, there are so many variables that might lean one towards a different approach. These are the subtleties that you and I know to look for. For a novice, this two step approach pretty much always works giving them the highest chance to make match quality ammo.

Jerry
 
mysticplayer said:
Fred, the reason for my two step approach is to ensure that none of the issues that might crop up with a FL sizer has to be dealt with. Including:

- runout introduced during the sizing stage. (This can happen with a die that isn't true. I do get slightly less runout necksizing, say <1 thou with necksizing and <3 thou with full length...makes no difference with a hunting rifle)
- partial sizing leaving a bulge at the base of the neck which can cause chambering issues. A different form of donut. (Have experienced donuts, as you know, but haven't run across this problem with partial sizing. It might be because of the way I set my dies.)

- sizing that overworks the shoulder and/or web which can reduce case life. Possible in max chamber w/min spec die. (This can be minimized by proper setting up of the die. All brass will harden when it is worked, including neck sized cases. One will always end up full-length sizing the cases because of this if you keep the cases long enough.)

- reducing the case alignment with the chamber/bore if in a max chamber/min die situation. (I have heard the alignment argument used both ways and still don't know what to think, as I mentioned. I think full length sized cases align well. I'm more worried about poorly aligned chambers.)

- increasing case growth by pulling the necks forward with the expander ball (tapered expander ball or polished expander ball and proper lube eliminate this)

- having varying neck tension if lube is not properly used or removed. (Use lube properly, obviously. We are going to argue type of neck sizing die here aren't we:).)

As this was asked by a novice, unlikely to have the tools and info to check for any of these issues. FL sizing can work and I have used it on several rifles over the years but I have the resources to ensure success. (Full length sizing is something that is done in many situations involving firearms and it is as important to know it as any other procedure. It is important to do it well just as it is to do the other skills involved in shooting well. There is nothing inherently tough about full length resizing. Lube your cases properly. Buy a die that minimizes friction between the sizing ball and the case neck and one that is accurate.)

There has only been two times with FL sizing was necessary. One was a WWI rifle where the chamber was bulged and the FL die was the only way to iron out that bulge (smart thing would have been to ditch the rifle instead). Secondly, when I did have a banana chamber and FL sizing did help in allowing for chambering and some decent accuracy. Again, better off putting on a new pipe. (I agree)

The other few times, I was 'lucky' that the die and chamber were a good fit and I had excellent luck using a FL sizer. That is likely your situation with your 308 and 6BR. You FL sizers are a close fit to the chamber so little gain is seen using a neck sizer alone. (I think it is an assumption I would like to see tested that neck sizing improves performance in a loose chamber. I don't think it improves things any more than full-length sizing. I'm willing to be shown though. First we have to find a loose chamber...:))

As always, there are so many variables that might lean one towards a different approach. These are the subtleties that you and I know to look for. For a novice, this two step approach pretty much always works giving them the highest chance to make match quality ammo. (Not sure about the point concerning making quality match ammo. I think a bit differently when I am making my hunting loads.)

Jerry
Click to expand...

Alot of good stuff there. I have put some answers beside some of the points. You made full-length sizing sound like the bubonic plague. I actually felt relief when you said you actually used it once in awhile...lol... as ever...fred
 
tripalm said:
Just had the 6.5 recommended as a varmint/predator round, can this round be loaded for coyote/wolf and be cheeeeeep to shoot??
Click to expand...

I know I'm the newbie on this load, but I'll take a stab at it.
YES!! The 6.5X55 is a very popular varmint round (both Remington and Tikka make varmint guns in this calibre).
It is light on recoil, and due to the almost obsurd BC, is amazingly accurate for what is a relatively slow round.
As far as being cheeeeep to shoot... I can't say. That is why I want to reload for it.
If this is the determing factor, you might be looking at another calibre.
Hoping the others will chime in at this point.
:popCorn:
 
My friends 6.5x55 in a Tika varmint last Sunday using 4064 and 142gr Sierra MK start low work-up seated just off rifling
100 Yards he shot a ace,one very small hole, mind you he has a 8 by 25 Leuplod
http://

300 Yards
http://
 
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