Newbie looking for bullet advice, Remington model 700 in 270win
- Thread starter Big Tom
- Start date
So I bought the 140gr Accubonds, got out the Nosler recipe book and it showed IMR4831 as the most accurate and I know online it's used alot in 270 loads so I bought 1lb of it (how many shells will this make approx anyway??)
But I was surprised when I read the Nosler manual and looked online it shows 49.5min and 53.5max and I believe the 49.5 was the most accurate (it has an asterisks beside it and the other values don't so assuming that's what it means?) but when I read online most guys are loading these bullets in the same style gun closer to 55-56grains. Of course I'm going to start with the Nosler book and work my way up, but how do I know when I'm getting too heavy of a load? I don't have anyway I measure velocity, and I definitely will error more on the side of keeping all my fingers then trying to squeeze every bit of power I can into the bullet, but I'd like to know some of the common signs to look for as you're building a load. I'm going to be researching it as well I'm sure there are a pile of topics on this already, but thought I'd ask on here as well to get some direct advice.
Nosler data
http://www.nosler.com/Reloading-Data/270-Winchester-140-Grains.aspx
But I was surprised when I read the Nosler manual and looked online it shows 49.5min and 53.5max and I believe the 49.5 was the most accurate (it has an asterisks beside it and the other values don't so assuming that's what it means?) but when I read online most guys are loading these bullets in the same style gun closer to 55-56grains. Of course I'm going to start with the Nosler book and work my way up, but how do I know when I'm getting too heavy of a load? I don't have anyway I measure velocity, and I definitely will error more on the side of keeping all my fingers then trying to squeeze every bit of power I can into the bullet, but I'd like to know some of the common signs to look for as you're building a load. I'm going to be researching it as well I'm sure there are a pile of topics on this already, but thought I'd ask on here as well to get some direct advice.
Nosler data
http://www.nosler.com/Reloading-Data/270-Winchester-140-Grains.aspx
The 140 AB's are good for anything that you might hunt... start at the minimum load and make up 5 loads in one grain increments... test for ACCURACY but watch for pressure signs (stressed cases, bulged, popped or flat primers etc...)... too much emphasis is placed on velocity IMO... accuracy is where it is at... take the best recipe of the loads that you have tested and make up a batch and settle down and do some shooting... get to know your load and your hold over/under at various ranges... I tend to sight my guns for the MPBR with a 3" radius (gives you some margin for shooter error)... good luck.
When I had a 270 I used 150gr bullets @ 2900 fps and 140gr TSXs @ 3000fps+-.
If I buy another I'll start with a 130 or 140gr TTSX.
As to guessing pressure, measureing the case head is a fairly popular method.
Personaly I prefer to use a chronograpf and cross referenced loading manuals,
when your velocity is too high the pressure is too high.
Flattened primers hard bolt lift and ejector marks on the bolt face can indicate you are hot or too hot allready.
A base model Chrony can be had for a bit more than a hundred bucks and works well until you shoot it.
If I buy another I'll start with a 130 or 140gr TTSX.
As to guessing pressure, measureing the case head is a fairly popular method.
Personaly I prefer to use a chronograpf and cross referenced loading manuals,
when your velocity is too high the pressure is too high.
Flattened primers hard bolt lift and ejector marks on the bolt face can indicate you are hot or too hot allready.
A base model Chrony can be had for a bit more than a hundred bucks and works well until you shoot it.
When getting near max published loads, I prefer to work up in .5 grain increments (1 or 2 shells at each weight), and stop when the bolt lift starts to feel a bit sticky (or you see cratered primers, or ejector marks on the head), then load your way back down from there for accuracy on your next outing with ~5 shells at each load, again in .5 grain increments. When re-sizing your brass, only bump the shoulder back enough to get the shell to re-chamber smoothly (no excessive force on the bolt to close). This will minimize your headspace, and should help accuracy. Make sure you don't confuse loads for IMR4831 and H4831. Loads listed for H4831 will always have more powder, due to being slower burning, and using IMR4831 instead could be very bad for your face. Don't worry about what people post online for max load data, they don't have your body parts to lose. Velocity figures online always seem to be a ####-measuring contest anyways, for some reason.
As far as how many shells you'll net, there are 7000 grains in a lb, so figure out your load and you can figure out how far a lb can take you. Keep in mind I am still very new to reloading, these are the things I've picked up and found online over the past year or so. Still got all 10, so I haven't messed up that badly yet!
You should get a chrono, not only is it extremely fun, but it's an important tool for loading and if you ever want to do any longer distance shooting (to get appropriate bullet drop, etc)
As far as how many shells you'll net, there are 7000 grains in a lb, so figure out your load and you can figure out how far a lb can take you. Keep in mind I am still very new to reloading, these are the things I've picked up and found online over the past year or so. Still got all 10, so I haven't messed up that badly yet!
You should get a chrono, not only is it extremely fun, but it's an important tool for loading and if you ever want to do any longer distance shooting (to get appropriate bullet drop, etc)
