Newbie question .303 sporter modification

In terms of value for dollar, you would be way ahead buying a Husqvarna 1600 sporting rifle from Tradeex, or a seller on the EE.
The cut down Lee Enfield was a good option for a bargain hunting rifle in 1965, when I was young.
Now, they are overpriced for the value that they offer.
 
Study all of the Parker Hale Sporter info you can find. Learn how to identify them well. Then watch shops and the EE for .303 "cut down' "Sporter" etc and you will see the well done Parker Hales mistaken for Bubba guns for a song. Great hunting rifle and grand old cartridge. What's not to like?

Darryl

I've owned a few PH sporters over the years, I think I sold the last one a few years back when I was thinning out the herd. They are good rifles for the most part, well done conversions, PH did not bother with the junk as there were lots of surplus in good condition back then.
 
I've seen and worked on lots of PH sporter conversions. They were almost all put together from NOS parts or NOS rifles.

The other thing I found with them was they seemed to check the higher end models for tighter bore diameters and they usually shoot very well.

They weren't as fussy with some of the lower end offerings, but even they were made up on platforms that were in excellent condition before they started.

I believe PH did sell some of their conversions to other distributors and didn't have PH identification stamps. Not sure though, I believe the Sears and Eaton conversions were mosty done by Parker Hale.
 
Yeah, I was given a PH conversion a while back, and it was the first LE based Sporter that I ever thought looked half decent. There are a LOT of ugly guns out there. It seems a shame to make more! :)

Along these lines...

img_0915-1.jpg
 

Attachments

  • img_0915-1.jpg
    img_0915-1.jpg
    35.8 KB · Views: 102
A follow up to my Post #16 - I think is done. Barrel was cut back to 46.5 mm, so just under 18 3/4". Recrowned with 11 degree hand tool. Forearm is original Maltby that was already sawed off - I shortened it even more. The barrel sling QD attachment is Uncle Mikes for a 20 gauge shotgun barrel. Weaver K3 MicroTrac scope in Parker Hale RALS.3 rings on A21 and A20 bases. Was a bit disappointing - as is - no sling or ammo - weighs 8.3 pounds - so like only 1/2 pound less than an original with full stock, etc.

And I was in error in my earlier post - is not a Mk.1/2 - is a Mk.1 - FTR 1948, so still has the trigger mounted on trigger guard.

E202B674-F8D0-4C7A-B741-F3F2DD3AD3A9_1_201_a.jpg

8380F19C-7217-48B5-A842-68AE0464CB55.jpg
 

Attachments

  • E202B674-F8D0-4C7A-B741-F3F2DD3AD3A9_1_201_a.jpg
    E202B674-F8D0-4C7A-B741-F3F2DD3AD3A9_1_201_a.jpg
    67.8 KB · Views: 70
  • 8380F19C-7217-48B5-A842-68AE0464CB55.jpg
    8380F19C-7217-48B5-A842-68AE0464CB55.jpg
    73.4 KB · Views: 69
Last edited:
Potash - I see you attached the forward sling swivel to the barrel - smart. Attaching it to the fore-end can cause trouble down the road. Did you use a 20 g barrel band?
 
Potash - I see you attached the forward sling swivel to the barrel - smart. Attaching it to the fore-end can cause trouble down the road. Did you use a 20 g barrel band?

Yes, as mentioned in my Post #25 - Uncle Mike's #1597-2, sold for .700" to .750" diameter barrels - the package lists Browning rifles, and specifically, the Ruger Over/Under 20 gauge, which is what I had bought it for. I ordered another from Amazon.ca - hopefully will install it on the Ruger Red Label, this time!!! That "band" on barrel not really a band - more like two halves of a "clamp" - grabs maybe 300 degrees around the barrel - is "open" on top.

Might have to "zoom in" to see it - a view from above, looking back at it:

4F1DEEA9-F40C-434F-B360-6341C4A504CD.jpg
 

Attachments

  • 4F1DEEA9-F40C-434F-B360-6341C4A504CD.jpg
    4F1DEEA9-F40C-434F-B360-6341C4A504CD.jpg
    34.9 KB · Views: 48
Last edited:
Yes, as mentioned in my Post #25 - that "band" on barrel not really a band - more like a "clamp" - Uncle Mike's PN #1597-2, sold for .700" to .750" diameter barrels - the package lists Browning rifles, and specifically, the Ruger Over/Under 20 gauge, which is what I had bought it for. I ordered another from Amazon.ca - hopefully will install it on the Ruger Red Label, this time!!!

I use the same idea for mounting a sling on any Cooey shotgun, on the barrel and not the forearm
 
Yes, as mentioned in my Post #25 - Uncle Mike's #1597-2, sold for .700" to .750" diameter barrels - the package lists Browning rifles, and specifically, the Ruger Over/Under 20 gauge, which is what I had bought it for. I ordered another from Amazon.ca - hopefully will install it on the Ruger Red Label, this time!!! That "band" on barrel not really a band - more like two halves of a "clamp" - grabs maybe 300 degrees around the barrel - is "open" on top.

And that clamp being open on the top is tight enough to not slip on the barrel?
 
"tight enough" - might be related to how tight that you torque up the little screw that holds the two halves of the clamp together. By opening the label in the package, I found installation instructions - "For more permanent installation, use Gun-Tite" - I have no clue what that is. "Tighten with Allen wrench until band is securely held in place." - no mention of an actual torque number to apply.

I have never used this product previously, so no clue how well it works or not. Maybe it does slip - I do not know. Because of how the draws fit on a No. 4 Lee Enfield, I did not want to unnecessarily load that fore arm - but I did want a way to attach a carry strap. I do not use a "shooting sling" - is not what this installation is intended for.

I am not so far away from my "prairie farm boy" origins, that the attachment to the barrel could not be a lacing with baler twine or leather thongs. I mostly use a carry strap for the walk out - I seldom have a sling or strap on my rifle when I am hunting - I never really learned how to "sling up" into a shooting sling, and knew no one who did, while hunting, to show me how to do that or why.
 
Last edited:
They actually work quite well and don't slip off, if properly tightened at the correct dimension on the barrel.

One thing about them, you don't want any pressure on that sling when holding for off hand shooting or any type of shooting.

Changes harmonics dramatically.

I have a couple of those in a bin. I didn't know they were still being made.
 
Chas - I do not need a picture, but thank you for offer. I think I get the idea - to be like a "glue" to hold it on the barrel, beside the clamping force of the little allen screw. As mentioned, is my first time to use this product, so I have no idea how well it will hold or not. I hope it does work - I want to install another on my Ruger Over / Under.
 
Chas - I do not need a picture, but thank you for offer. I think I get the idea - to be like a "glue" to hold it on the barrel, beside the clamping force of the little allen screw. As mentioned, is my first time to use this product, so I have no idea how well it will hold or not. I hope it does work - I want to install another on my Ruger Over / Under.

I think it was meant more for the allen screw to prevent it from backing out
 
Back
Top Bottom