newbie question on rifle reloading accessories

[luckey]

Hi Gurus, I need some advice/help on rifle reloading. After reloading pistol(9/40/45acp/357mag/44spl/44mag) for about 2 years, I am slowly getting into rifles, focusing on 308 win(bolt action) and 223 rem(semi auto, x95/AR15). after getting almost everything from dedicated single stage press, dies(FL and Neck), case prep center(for trim, deburring etc), headspace gauge. the only things left to decide are rifle case annealer(TBD, mostly like will, but not for now) and bullet comparator with inserts.

the question is for the bullet comparator with inserts. do I really need it? my ruger shoots factory hornady 165sst/gmx really well. so it will be my template, and I am using the exact same bullets. So, I thought I would just match my oal with the factory, and use headspace gauge to make sure the headspace is correct which is more important I think.

Is it approach ok or am I missing something due to lack of experience?

Thanks in advance.

 

[luckey]

not sure if this answers my own question. if I compare the exact same bullets between factory and my own load, as long as the factory bullet is manufactured consistently, I should not need the comparator. If I am comparing different bullets, it's needed because the bullet shapes could be different. so measuring the ogive to base is more accurate.

 

[Keithjohn]

I like my comparator but I went 30+ years without one . If you research you can find ways to find your rifle lands with a dummy shell ( recommended *) but most bullets will be safe seated at factory OAL or even mag length if you stay to the common stuff like you plan

If you notice slight resistance when chambering check bullet for rifling marks and/or reduce length and always load under max powder guidelines UNTILL you are more experienced

*_ your chamber can be used as your OAL gauge

Edit - you got the jist of it with your second post

 

[luckey]

Thanks Keithjohn. That's what I thought. for the OAL, dummy round in the chamber is just like the same practice I have been doing on pistols. thanks for confirming. and yes, never go above or even near max load when just starting. progress as experience builds. safety first!

I like my comparator but I went 30+ years without one . If you research you can find ways to find your rifle lands with a dummy shell ( recommended *) but most bullets will be safe seated at factory OAL or even mag length if you stay to the common stuff like you plan

If you notice slight resistance when chambering check bullet for rifling marks and/or reduce length and always load under max powder guidelines UNTILL you are more experienced

*_ your chamber can be used as your OAL gauge

Edit - you got the jist of it with your second post

 

[OldDude]

I like my comparator but I went 30+ years without one . If you research you can find ways to find your rifle lands with a dummy shell ( recommended *) but most bullets will be safe seated at factory OAL or even mag length if you stay to the common stuff like you plan

If you notice slight resistance when chambering check bullet for rifling marks and/or reduce length and always load under max powder guidelines UNTILL you are more experienced

*_ your chamber can be used as your OAL gauge

Edit - you got the jist of it with your second post

Resistance while chambering could also be an indication that the shoulder needs to be bumped back. This is a concern if you are neck sizing, and going several reloads on the same brass. The way to determine if the shoulders need a bump is to try to chamber a resized case with no bullet seated.

Presumably, you already have a caliper capable of measuring cases to the nearest 0.001 inch? If not, get one. The digital ones which show up in Princess Auto's or Canadian Tire's sale flyers will work. I prefer a mechanical dial caliper, since the battery won't croak on me when I want to measure something.
BTW, I do have an electronic one as well, and it has its uses. Some guys prefer the electronic. You could go old school, and use a real vernier caliper......