Newbie question- recipe

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mighty_ruger

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Hi guys,
I just got setup with a basic reloading kit from a coworker and I'm ready to roll. Quick question about recipes: I'm having a tough time Finding recipes with the bullet and powder combos I was given.
For instance I have Winchester 147 gr FMJBT bullets and Alliant Powder Reloading 15 and 19 powders.

Reloading.308

I have found some references to 150 gr and Reloader 17. But nothing exactly matching what I have. All help is appreciated!

Thanks,
Marc
 
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when i saw 147gr i was thinking 9mm rounds :) what calibre are you loading for?

use the 150 gr data, using a light bullet is fine and won't have as much pressure since it's lighter. generally speaking you can safely load bullets +/- 5-10gr is weight, just start with the minimum load data and work up.
 
You can reference the online site as said above, but you NEED to go and get a manual to cross reference these numbers, with whatever caliber you are loading. I would recommend the Lyman purely because they have no bias towards bullet manufacturers
 
nevanevan said:
You can reference the online site as said above, but you NEED to go and get a manual to cross reference these numbers, with whatever caliber you are loading. I would recommend the Lyman purely because they have no bias towards bullet manufacturers
Click to expand...

+1, you can get by pretty good with the hodgdon website for load data and their powders, but alliant's website data sucks balls...
 
My Hornady manual lists 150-155gr bullets (GMX, BTSP, BT-FMJ, Target bullets...) RL15 38.3gr starting - 45.4gr top end with 47.2gr. being the maximum. No mention of RL17 and I wouldn't expect RL19 to burn quick enough to be ideal for 308win. Again, you need at least one reloading manual especially for instructions in proper reloading technique and verification of charges you find online from sources that are not necessarily reliable. (eg. I reread before typing in the above load but I am still a man and therefore imperfect) Besides, reloading manuals are not expensive - very cheap assurance for information accuracy.

EDIT: +1 on Spawn-Inc's summation of Alliants website... I don't know if they are deliberately trying to be obtuse or if it's a sure way to ensure reloaders have up to date reloading manuals? Even their online manual leaves much to be desired.
 
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New Camper said:
Without caliber being mentioned, there is nothing to work with. You will need a reloading manual either way, but you can try Alliant's website here: http://www.alliantpowder.com/reloaders/
Click to expand...

Try searching with the caliber as suggested .. Reloader 19 is a solid choice for 30-06 but may not be due to case size in another .308 projectile base. You are also under the standard 30-06 projectile weight of 180 grains for so that will also decide if safe or not.

Searching the Internet and posts for recipes is fast , but it is not safe .. Cross checking several published sources ( something with some legal liability ) and establishing a base load , then searching for specific cross referenced accepted practices for your projectile weight and specific fire arm is a better process .. Some poster may be pushing weights of powder across many boards, but only on one does he just mention his firearm has some specific advantage your firearm may not .. Like having a special barrel .. We are human and we forget ...

Case in point .. Red dot slug loads are in the 18 grain range .. Someone posts they have been pushing 19 grains for years in their hatsan .. You do not know that the semi-auto may need 19 grains to cycle properly, but the hatsan pump will do just fine on 18 . Why burn the extra powder, or take the extra pressure when not needed ..
 
rocor98 said:
Try searching with the caliber as suggested .. Reloader 19 is a solid choice for 30-06 but may not be due to case size in another .308 projectile base. You are also under the standard 30-06 projectile weight of 180 grains for so that will also decide if safe or not.

Searching the Internet and posts for recipes is fast , but it is not safe .. Cross checking several published sources ( something with some legal liability ) and establishing a base load , then searching for specific cross referenced accepted practices for your projectile weight and specific fire arm is a better process .. Some poster may be pushing weights of powder across many boards, but only on one does he just mention his firearm has some specific advantage your firearm may not .. Like having a special barrel .. We are human and we forget ...

Case in point .. Red dot slug loads are in the 18 grain range .. Someone posts they have been pushing 19 grains for years in their hatsan .. You do not know that the semi-auto may need 19 grains to cycle properly, but the hatsan pump will do just fine on 18 . Why burn the extra powder, or take the extra pressure when not needed ..
Click to expand...

OP later edited post to indicate caliber was 308. My second post reflected that new information and I presumed that meant 308win: I was clear in mentioning that presumption in second post. That clarified and settled I have no dispute with the remainder of your post.
 
You should really be picking up a couple reloading books like Hornady Handbook of Cartridge Reloading 9th Ed. etc. and a few others.

You can reference the 150gr bullet data on Alliant's website. For RL15, 49gr is the recommended max load so start off at 10% less and build up loads in 0.5gr increments. Hornady book, for 150gr projectiles, start off at 38.3gr and max at 47.2gr. I would go the more conservative Hornady route. Keep in mind to check for any over-pressure signs that your loads are getting too hot when you get near the max.

http://www.alliantpowder.com/reload...wderlist.aspx&type=1&powderid=12&cartridge=80
 
New Camper said:
OP later edited post to indicate caliber was 308. My second post reflected that new information and I presumed that meant 308win: I was clear in mentioning that presumption in second post. That clarified and settled I have no dispute with the remainder of your post.
Click to expand...

I am sorry I was not clear .. I was seconding your post .. I thought your post was spot on .. I should have made that more evident .. I think my response was being typed when you made your second ..

To many people rely on posted recipes with out doing the homework to understand their complex nature .. Using cast bullets multiplys the complexity .. But alas gaining the full knowledge makes us no longer newbies ..
 
mighty_ruger said:
Hi guys,
I just got setup with a basic reloading kit from a coworker and I'm ready to roll. Quick question about recipes: I'm having a tough time Finding recipes with the bullet and powder combos I was given.
For instance I have Winchester 147 gr FMJBT bullets and Alliant Powder Reloading 15 and 19 powders.

Reloading.308

I have found some references to 150 gr and Reloader 17. But nothing exactly matching what I have. All help is appreciated!

Thanks,
Marc
Click to expand...
You don't say whether you have a reloading manual...I suggest the Lyman Reloading Manual...It is excellent..I reload .223, 9mm and .308 and soon to be loading 6.5x55 Se....All in the manual...and an excellent manual it is.
 
Good points above. My call is:

1. Powder is cheap. Don't limit yourself to combinations which are not optimal. Invest $35 in a can of powder that works for you.

2. Buy yourself a reloading manual made by one of the major firms - Speer, Sierra, Hornary, Lyman, etc. They're all good.

3. Until you get some experience, never, under any circumstances, ever use loads off the internet (exception being those from websites of major firms). Most will be OK, but some I've seen (right here, on CGN, too) are 'waay too stiff, dangerous as hell. Take your recipes from a proper manual.

Welcome to the dark side.
 
Good points above. My call is:

1. Powder is cheap. Don't limit yourself to combinations which are not optimal. Invest $35 in a can of powder that works for you.

2. Buy yourself a reloading manual made by one of the major firms - Speer, Sierra, Hornary, Lyman, etc. They're all reliable.

3. Until you get some experience, never, under any circumstances, ever use loads off the internet (exception being those from websites of major firms). Most will be OK, but some I've seen (right here, on CGN, too) are 'waay too stiff, dangerous as hell. Take your recipes from a proper manual.

Welcome to the dark side.
 
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