Sorry for the dumb question of the day but can someone please explain what this scale is and how to read it? I understand the markings on the actual turret (the part that spins) are MOA increments but i am not sure on how to read the scale on the body of the turret. For example what does the "2" stand for, is it 20 MOA?
Newbie Question - what is this scale?
- Thread starter Buster of Clays
- Start date
Thunderhog
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- East Kootneys
You are not dumb at all. I've been hunting over 50 years and I did not know what those little scope marks meant.thank you! does the scale remain true if one were to adjust the zero stop or is it only accurate from factory settings? sorry feeling really dumb today...
I would venture to say not a lot of people actually knew what they were either.
Your question was a very good one as far as I'm concerned!........
Buster, You're right that the scale will NOT be "accurate" in that it will remain where the turret indicates, NOT showing "0", ie in Your Pic the scale is at ca "6", and if you would set the turret at "0" the 'Scale" would remain "near" the "6". Here is a vid showing how to set Zero stops.
that scale indicates the number of turret rotations starting at the maximum range of adjustment available in the scope
depending on distance chosen for 'zero' the travel will be near the middle of its range, theoretically, if the scope tube is parallel to the bore
Thanks everyone for the responses and totally get the purpose of the stop, etc..im still struggling on why i would need to have/know where im at on that scale? also agree that it could "get in the way" if needing to go down but i figure if i set it for a 25 yard zero (shortest range i have access to) then in theory i would be mostly only need to go up. some people also zero the scope at 25yards but then set their zerostop a half moa below it to provide some leeway incase its needed
Boxhitch - any practical example you could provide as to why you would want to know the number of revolutions available...in theory wouldnt you just crank up until you needed or ended up at the top of the travel?
Boxhitch - any practical example you could provide as to why you would want to know the number of revolutions available...in theory wouldnt you just crank up until you needed or ended up at the top of the travel?
As an illustration, consider a long range shooter who may be dealing with a lot of adjustment. For instance 30-some MOA up....then tries the shot and needs another 5 MOA up...adjusting until he is on target. Then put the rifle away without dialing back to zero. Tomorrow, when he again takes it out, how much does he have to come down to get back to zero? Forgot. But he knows zero is at the number one on that scale, so can accuartely get back. A zero-stop takes care of this of course, but you hopefully get the idea of how it may be used.....
You are making the assumption that everyone would be at the bottom of the adjustment range for their zero….
Main reason to know where you are is that you can visually check to ensure that your turret hasn’t moved prior to taking a shot. Without the lateral lines for reference you wouldn’t know if when you checked your turret and it indicated 9.75 moa if you were 0.25 moa low, or 9.75 moa high….
BoC, Knowing the number of revs can be useful, but not very user friendly
Lets say your Zero is at #5 on a 1-10 scale and you dial up 2 revs plus 5 clicks on the turret to shoot a particular distance, now you are at #7
You then dial another rev plus 7 clicks for another distance, now you're at #8
Then you want to return to Zero, l can you remember how many revs to get back to Zero
Watch the scale and return to #5
this is an over simplification, but it gives the idea
typed this while others replied
Lets say your Zero is at #5 on a 1-10 scale and you dial up 2 revs plus 5 clicks on the turret to shoot a particular distance, now you are at #7
You then dial another rev plus 7 clicks for another distance, now you're at #8
Then you want to return to Zero, l can you remember how many revs to get back to Zero
Watch the scale and return to #5
this is an over simplification, but it gives the idea
typed this while others replied
Buster, If you set the stop, you won't be able to go out to 100 or whatever from a 25-yd zero. It's a STOP. The number of revs would make it simple to go from 25 to 100 or More, likely would take 2-3 revs to get to 100. Depends on the scope and the rifle being used, some don't have that much adjustment anyway. You need to consider "TOTAL" MOA/MIL Adjustment available - as in UP and DOWN TOTAL. I bought a "target scope" without checking the TOTAL and needed to get a 20* rail to get out beyond 100-yds., but the 34X is still great !
I could be totally wrong but its not adding up in my head right now.
You will be able to go from 25 yards to 100 without 2 - 3 revs, that is a lot.
I use a zero stop on mine at 100 yards, at less then that I just use the hash marks on scope itself. That way I can dial it up and quickly zero it back to 100 without worry.
Buster I will let you know what I do, personal preference though. I use my rifle for hunting and target practice.
I find my 100 yard zero, get it all dialed in perfect then I reset the top turret to zero (by taking it off the scope, spinning it to zero then reattaching it), and put my zero stop at 100. As I said I am hunting with this rifle so at less then 100 its going to be right where it "needs" to be.
Knowing your full revolutions is very important if, IF I did not remember to rezero my scope at any time after target shooting. Here is an example...
MY scope is 15 MOA per revolution
zeroed at 100 yards (with zero stop)
at 100 = 0 moa adjustment
at 175 yards = 1.1 moa (2 inches)
at 700 yards = 16.1 moa (118 inches )
on the turret 16.1 MOA looks like 1.1 MOA as its 15 MOA per revolution. Thus why looking and seeing its 1 full rev up is important, only by looking at the markers below I can see I am +1 full revolution up.
With my zero stop, lets say I am shooting at the next target
675 yards = 15.0 MOA (107 inches)
Remember on the turret this looks like 0.0 MOA + 1 revolution.
As others have stated the revolutions markers dont always end up perfect based on your initial zero, bullet speed etc.
You find your next target, look at your turret, now did I adjust it back to 0.0 MOA, or did I forget and leave it at 15.0 MOA. With a zero stop you simply give it a little twist, mine will stop you just a hair under 0.0, if it keeps spinning down past 14.5 MOA then I forgot to spin it back after my last adjustment. I would have been +15 MOA off on the next shot.
Before zero stops there were little shims you could put inside the scope under the turret, they acted the same and would just physically prevent you from spinning the turret down below a certain point. They were not as precise as the newer zero stops though.
I find my 100 yard zero, get it all dialed in perfect then I reset the top turret to zero (by taking it off the scope, spinning it to zero then reattaching it), and put my zero stop at 100. As I said I am hunting with this rifle so at less then 100 its going to be right where it "needs" to be.
Knowing your full revolutions is very important if, IF I did not remember to rezero my scope at any time after target shooting. Here is an example...
MY scope is 15 MOA per revolution
zeroed at 100 yards (with zero stop)
at 100 = 0 moa adjustment
at 175 yards = 1.1 moa (2 inches)
at 700 yards = 16.1 moa (118 inches )
on the turret 16.1 MOA looks like 1.1 MOA as its 15 MOA per revolution. Thus why looking and seeing its 1 full rev up is important, only by looking at the markers below I can see I am +1 full revolution up.
With my zero stop, lets say I am shooting at the next target
675 yards = 15.0 MOA (107 inches)
Remember on the turret this looks like 0.0 MOA + 1 revolution.
As others have stated the revolutions markers dont always end up perfect based on your initial zero, bullet speed etc.
You find your next target, look at your turret, now did I adjust it back to 0.0 MOA, or did I forget and leave it at 15.0 MOA. With a zero stop you simply give it a little twist, mine will stop you just a hair under 0.0, if it keeps spinning down past 14.5 MOA then I forgot to spin it back after my last adjustment. I would have been +15 MOA off on the next shot.
Before zero stops there were little shims you could put inside the scope under the turret, they acted the same and would just physically prevent you from spinning the turret down below a certain point. They were not as precise as the newer zero stops though.
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