Newbie to Re-Loading Question About Presses

R

Rockmcdock

New member
Rating - 100%
2   0   0
Location
Calgary, AB
I have never reloaded; wanting to do rifle ammo up through .300 win mag. I have some money. I am quite handy and quick to learn. I am considering the Hornady Lock-n-Load progressive press, which looks like it would give me years of functional service. Good choice?
 
I started reloading many years ago, doing all calibers on a Lee Reloader C-frame. Then I picked up a Lee Turret to do the handgun cartridges a little faster. Eventually I replaced the c-frame with a Challenger O-frame, and then added a Hornady LNL Progressive to do those calibers I shoot the most.

I still load my lower volume stuff on the simpler presses. It is cheaper to set them up without all the automated widgets, the processes are simpler and the machines have fewer moving parts. I guess I have to admit I am far more prone to make mistakes on the progressive press. I never owned a bullet puller when I had only a single stage, I wouldn't be without one with the progressive.

I have no doubt the LNL Progressive can be made to work for what you want to do, but my first instinct is it might not be the best choice. For me, I wouldn't bother with the progressive for anything I didn't plan on loading 200 or more at a time, multiple times per year. If your attention to detail is better than mine, maybe your numbers are different.
 
Lee Classic Turret kit. I load from 9mm to 300 win mag, not a single problem over the last three years. You can remove the auto-indexing rod which essentially turns it into a shingle stage, while having your dies all set up on individual turrets for ease of use.

I can crank out 200 9mm in under an hour and a half with visual powder checks on each. Works for me.
 
Would you consider buying once and crying once? If so get a dillon, i just bought a xl750 and i am new to reloading. Its an amazing press easy to setup and crank away.
 
One approach is to get a good single stage press for rifle and learn on this press.

I really like the Forster Co-Ax press. Expensive but will literally last you a lifetime and a great all around press.

Starting with a progressive can be too much complexity and not effective for larger rifle cartridges that you will likely load in smaller batches anyway.

Pick 1 or 2 simple calibers you shoot a lot to start with, and invest in a good scale and a basic set of tools.

We’re here to help!
 
I started out with Lee classic(Cast) turret press few months back, without any prior experience. Using all Lee equipment- dies, power trim, auto drum powder measure for my setup and so far no complaints at all. With just a couple months of experience I can crank out around 100 rounds in an hour of 44 Magnum to 303 Brit. Look up Higginson's Powders for the best deal in Lee equipment and you will probably save more on the side for powders and bullets.
 
Rockmcdock said:
I have never reloaded; wanting to do rifle ammo up through .300 win mag. I have some money. I am quite handy and quick to learn. I am considering the Hornady Lock-n-Load progressive press, which looks like it would give me years of functional service. Good choice?
Click to expand...

If you plan on doing high volume pistol ammo too, I can understand and somewhat agree, but not for strictly rifle ammo.
If you plan to shoot many calibers that require different size shell plates, it can get expensive. Shell holders for single stages are much cheaper.
I found Dillons with their requirements for "conversion kits" prohibitively expensive for doing all the calibers I wanted to load for. Great presses and real work savers if you leave it dedicated to one "popular" American caliber, but out of my practical budget.

I have a LNL AP and a RCBS RC with Piggy Back for Progressives, a couple of Lee turrets for small batches of pistol and three Single Stages, Hornady Classic LNL, The RCBS RC and an OLD CH C press for the dirty jobs like de-priming which can cause grief on a progressive press.
For large rifle cases also there is the issue of flex on the shell plate when doing full length neck resizing. .308 is on the upper level there. Meaning brass may not be symmetrical from the FL sizing without adding a hard shim under the shell plate at the resizing position.
 
Last edited:
I agree with the majority of posters who said start on a single stage press for rifle reloading. LEE classic cast iron, RCBS Rockchucker, etc. Lee Turret could work for you too.
 
For rifle calibers, you really need a single stage.
Progressive presses are for pistol calibers, and in this case, go Dillon and be happy.
 
For rifle loading , get a single stage press.
I like the idea of a single stage so you can learn the steps. Even to learn handgun calibers.
I enjoy reloading equal to shooting. So I'm never in a hurry to reload as if it is a necessary evil.
My first press was a rockchucker.
I Still have it along with several different Lee single stage, from the reloader to the classic cast.
90% of my sizing is done on an old Lee challenger. You'll always have a use for the SS press.
One suggestion on dies, ( l'll use Lee for the example.)
If available buy the ultimate set vs the others, RGB or pacesetter.
I found after buying the lesser set, I had need of the greater.
 
Last edited:
300 WM is not a calibre you're likely to go out and shoot high volumes of. Maybe if you were looking to load .223, or 6mm, or even .308.

For a new reloader, I think it's easier to crank out high quality rifle ammo on a single stage when the calibre you've mentioned is considered. I don't know your budget, but I'd say that if you went out and bought a quality single stage, quality dies/trimmer/powder measure, premium components you would end up with a better result and more cash in pocket.

If you were to take up IPSC or 3 gun (if we're ever allowed to do that again) or other high volume shooting sports, then I'd look at the Dillon 750/650.

Just one guy's opinion.
 
I uses single stage. Powder measuring is my bottleneck. I would buy a Chargemaster next. Everything other step can be done in groups of 20-50 or 100 for shooting from hunting positions. You are far better off shooting 20-40 rounds a week from hunting positions than reloading with obsessive detail to get extreme precision for a hunting rifle. If precision is the game there are multitude of expensive steps to be sure you are getting the best you can.
 
I appreciate so much all of what I expect is quality advice. So, what is the best single stage I can buy, and what are the best other components to the process that will allow me to turn out quality precision cartridges? I have had two custom rifles built, one in .300 win mag and one in .300 wsm, and I want to find the most accurate loads for each in various bullet weights. What will allow for precision? I also have purely factory rifles (.243, .308, .270 wsm) for which I also want to find the most accurate loads. I will not be loading for handguns.
 
I have both progressive and single stage presses. Dillon for 9mm and 223 in large amounts, use the old Lyman for all my other reloading, hunting rounds and target ammo. I started with single stage 40+ years ago and won't give it up, won't be getting rid of the Dillon either. Wouldn't want just a progressive as it gets expensive for change over kits and a pain if you only want a box or 2 of hunting ammo. Have fun with your new loading adventures.
 
Rockmcdock said:
I appreciate so much all of what I expect is quality advice. So, what is the best single stage I can buy, and what are the best other components to the process that will allow me to turn out quality precision cartridges? I have had two custom rifles built, one in .300 win mag and one in .300 wsm, and I want to find the most accurate loads for each in various bullet weights. What will allow for precision? I also have purely factory rifles (.243, .308, .270 wsm) for which I also want to find the most accurate loads. I will not be loading for handguns.
Click to expand...

A couple of thoughts for you:

Assuming these are bolt action rifles (most likely), then dies and brass processing become more important. Many reloaders do not full length resize the case after every firing, but just re-size the neck using either a bushing next sizer or a Lee collet die (I use Lee). Then re-size case only when empty brass shows some resistance on the bolt when chambering using a “body die” that only touches the shoulder of the case. 300WM headspaces initially off the belt on the head of the cartridge but after 1st firing, can headspace off the shoulder.

A simplified process would look like (starting from fired brass)

1. Deprime case using de-priming die or hand de-primer.
2. Tumble to clean (or maybe just wipe and use a case neck brush if getting started to avoid tumbler cost).
3. If brass chambers easily (no bolt resistance when closing) - use Lee collet die on single stage press (apply 15-20lb pressure on down stroke - this die functions differently than other resizing dies). So need press, collet die and shell holder for this step. Check case length and trim if needed.
4. Prime re-sized case. I use an RCBS hand priming tool.
5. Charge primed case - need powder scale (I use RCBS chargemaster). Also need funnel and a loading block to hold the cases helps. Buy a reloading manual for powder/charge selection and start low and work up slowly.
6. Seat projectile - need a seating die (I use micrometer seating dies from RCBS and Forster).
7. Measure - need bullet comparator set and micrometer to measure correct depth. A friend could help measure the chamber or get data from your builder for a specific projectile.

Later you’ll need to anneal and add a re-sizing step, plus case cleaning and trimming tools, case gauges, etc.

Over a few years, you’ll develop your process and accumulate the tools.

I find it as (or more) rewarding than shooting sometimes!
 
Depends how much do you shoot, progressive is faster and you don't loose much if any concentricity. Many professional shooters use progressive press. And they only full length resize. I do not fully understand why, but they use 3 seperate dies, decapping die, FL die without the expanderball, and a mandrel die. Instead of a full length resizing die. If you use 3 separate dies, you need a progressive press.
My guess is mandrel die can have adjustable neck tension, and the mandrel push in the neck of the case, so the case life is longer.
I don't shoot enough, and I'm happy with FL dies neck tension (2 tho) so I just use single stage press with full length die.

I recommend wet tumbling, to prevent lead dust in your house.
Since magnum brass are pretty expensive, you should consider an annealing equipment. Anneal everyother firing
Measurement equipment: concentricity gauge, caliper, hornady headspace and bullet length gauge.
Powder measurement: RCBS chargemaster.
RCBS Competition bullet seating die.
I recommend seat bullet 20-40 thousands off the land, so you don't need to chase after the land all the time.

Also, there are research shown, different batch power has up to 8% difference in velocity. So it's a good idea to stock 8lb powder once you have a load developed.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom