Newby - bullet stuck in barrel

The 303 is not too different in volume from the 308 Win and it is reasonably easy to develop subsonic loads for that. You'll need to use heavier projectiles than roundballs though.


These fit more in the realm of gallery or "cat's sneeze" loads and will be severely limited in range.[/QUOTE]


I only need it to take out a grouse, rabbit. So range = 20-30 Feet. I didn't think B.P. would be loud though. I guess I will have to try it and see.
 
Mercuryv8
Before you blow up something you may like ie (balls ,rifles,other body parts)
Remember you cannot have an airspace with blackpowder .The projectile has to be loaded tight to the powder.A ramrod is an accessory with a purpose.
Rich
 
ckc123 said:
Now here is an interesting idea.. whats to stop you from taking a case with the appropriate amount of powder (but no bullet) and firing that, to remove the bullet from the barrel??

you could drop the powder load to enough to get it out the barrel, and note require a full powder load.

???


That kind of a situation has the same potential as a grossly underloaded cartridge. Both can have sudden detonation rather than rapid burn causing barrel ring NOT ADVISED
 
Suputin said:
Don't you just LOVE the internet?

Let me get this straight, you are making a number of guesses about something of which you don't know and presenting this as advice?

Copper solvent is almost always ammonia based. And that stuff WILL eat the barrel steel so leaving it in the barrel to "eat away" a stuck bullet is a VERY BAD idea.

Where did you come up with the idea that a copper solvent containing ammonia will damage steel?

I thought that myth was long passed....
 
Now here is an interesting idea.. whats to stop you from taking a case with the appropriate amount of powder (but no bullet) and firing that, to remove the bullet from the barrel??
I know that any airspace between a blackpowder load and the bullet can bulge the barrel. I don't know the physical reason for this but would be suspicious that it could also be a problem for smokeless loads. Personally I wouldn't recommend it.
 
guntech said:
Where did you come up with the idea that a copper solvent containing ammonia will damage steel?

I thought that myth was long passed....


On the back of a barnes cr 10 bottle probably. And ammonia will erode steel,just at an extremely slower rate than copper
 
ckc123 said:
Now here is an interesting idea.. whats to stop you from taking a case with the appropriate amount of powder (but no bullet) and firing that, to remove the bullet from the barrel??
I have actual experience with that exact issue ;)... the primer tossed the powder down the barrel where it just slowly burned and didn't help one bit. Without a bullet seated in the case to contain the initial flame from the primer, the powder seemed to behave just like it does in open air. If the bullet was stuck right near the throat perhaps this approach would be more effective, but in the incident I'm refering to, the bullet was about a foot down the bore. In the end, we used my one piece Dewey cleaning rod and some cleaning patches to push the bullet out.
 
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blindside said:
On the back of a barnes cr 10 bottle probably. And ammonia will erode steel,just at an extremely slower rate than copper

There have been numerous tests done and no one has been able to etch, erode or in any other way cause damage to barrel steel by commercially made ammonia based copper removers.

Ammonia based cleaners will not erode steel. Try a simple test as many others have done....

here is one: Sweets, Shooters choice copper remover were used for test. Sections of barrels from old stainless and moly steel were placed in the liquids; some were sealed and some left open. Days weeks and followed by months later the sections were inspected. The stainless sections were not damaged and only thing we found was the barrel section inside and out were near spotless clean. Pores of the metal were as well. There was some rust of the moly steel sections where the oil protection was removed. The unsealed parts dried up with a goo left in the jar. The moly steel part in the sealed jar did not rust and was like the stainless as it was really clean. Stainless sections were oiled and looked like new. Oil of Wintergreen was stated to be the best stainless lube. FP-10 did a great job of lube. Gave protection to the bore of barrels for shooting as it gives a lube for a clean barrel. After that test I find the statement of Sweets and such damaging a barrel as hard to believe.

another: it,s not hard for me to answer.. I took a piece of a shilen ss barrel about 2 inches long split it directly in half took one half and rubbed in the sweets and actually slopped on more sweets left it set for 4 days rubbed it in somemore and slopped more sweets on it and left it set for for a week then wiped off the mess and checked that half under a microscope againist the other half that set all that time with nothing on it and you could not see any visible evidence of anykind of marring or erosion at all between the two pieces of the barrel. And it was a piece of excess that was cut off a new barrel. So in my opinion sweets does not harm a ss barrel, at least it didn't after soaking in it for 11 days.

another: Here we go with the background on Sweets solvent. Jim Sweet was an industrial chemist in Sydney,Australia. Jim was also just about the best fullbore (Like national match) shooter in Australia, he coached me back in the 70's, probably been dead about 15 years ago now.
We were not even using stainless barrels when this solvent was first concocted. This formula will not harm any chrome moly steel and definatly not stainless, however it contains ammonia which is hydroscopic which means it will attract moisture if left in the barrel.
Use it with a nylon brush,preferably while the barrel is hot, dry with a patch and oil after with a patch, like Jim told me 30 years ago.

another: Amonnia is harmless
To anyone concerned:

I know alot of you will argue with me on this, but here it is.
In the development of Butch's, I have done a lot of research,and have documented proof from Dr's of Chemistry, and Metalergy, and they have told me that 100% raw amonnia will not harm 400 series stainless, or chromemoly barrels.
With that being said, why would solvents with 5% amonnia harm the barrel? Most of the shooters in the benchrest crowd know me, and use my product with great success with no complaints.
I get calls on this subject every day, and I am not writing this to tout my product. There are many fine solvents on the market today, all of which do a good job, used with common sense.
Try not to mix solvents, that's where you can get into trouble.
I do know that my product is compatable with sweets,because I used it as a test bed, while making mine.
One last thing I like to tell people, is if you're afraid of a little bit of amonnia, what do you think happens when you pull the trigger?

Thank You, and Good Shooting
Butch Fisher
BBS Industries

Personally I have been unable to harm steel with Sweets no matter how hard I try. I think the biggest problem if an ammonia based cleaner is used, is when it is patched dry and left with no oil on the surface. The steel will be so clean it will rust very easily.

Stop pushing the "myth" that ammonia cleaners harm barrels......

.
 
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Stop pushing the "myth" that ammonia cleaners harm barrels......

OK this gets a phone call to the techs at barnes. I'll call em on it,see why their printing it on their labels
 
Wilson said:
Happened to me once... went to crappy tire and bought a 36" wood dowel , cost about .50Cent. anyway while I waited I put my rifle in the freezer.

2 hrs later I put dowel down the barell and tapped the bullet out. This info. was given tome by my gunsmith, it might not work for you but it did for me.

btw mine was stuck fairly close to the chamber, hence the descion to push back to the chamber....


So it seems my temperature trick has some merit after all! Even without warming up the barrel, and leaving the bullet cold.
 
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