Next step for precision .308 loading?

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MartyK2500

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Just looking for opinions out there
I have started reloading .308 with information that i have read and tools commonly used.
Looking for opinions and discussion, on my next suggested step to bring my 308 loads up a notch

Currently using Federal 1F brass, Win large rifle primers, Hornady match BTHP 178gr bullets, Varget powder, Lee classic breechlock press, RCBS chargemaster combo, Lee .308 Ultimate die set, Lee trimmer that bolts on press like a die.
Already wet/SS tumbling as i had setup for pistol, so i deprime before tumbling and get nice primer pockets.

I have a feeling that FX120 scale with auto trickler, benchsource annealer, and using never fired Lapua brass will pop up.
Just wanting to make sure i'm not missing a less expensive step that will make my reloads better.
 
You have a good start, yes some of those things you mentioned are nice, if you do not really want to upgrade your equipment I would start with weight sorting all your brass in to batches and also length sorting your bullets from base to ogive and this will help with better consistency as well. I would also look at switching to a match primer in either CCI or federal.
 
Federal brass would be my last choice. Lapua being my first. Weight sort after trimming into at least 1 gr batches, 1/2 gr batches would be better. Get a scale that will weigh to .02 gr for powder. I also use a RCBS chargemaster but reweigh every charge with an Accu-lab scale.
 
What rifle are you loading for? The approach for precision handloading is different in several respects for a semi-auto (like a National Match M1A) vs a bolt-action rifle.

A couple of things to think about:
- Bullet selection - a big deal. I went from Hornady to Sierra and Bergers and there was a big difference in my R700. Projectiles over 168gr should be used with caution in semi-autos like the M305.

- Chamber measurement, headspace and seating depth. Consider getting Hornady headspace and bullet ogive comparator assuming that you already have a good set of calipers. Then get the lock and load gauge with a .308 modified case and measure the chamber using the specific bullet you wish to use.

- Lapua brass, Varget and CCI Benchrest primers are your friends!

- get access to a chronograph to measure load velocities, extreme spread and standard deviation.

- read lots, especially books by Litz and Zeidiker.

Tell us more and keep us posted on your progress. Handloading is a very rewarding aspect of my shooting experience overall!
 
Not sure about your Lee dies - how is your run out with them? Forster (and others) makes a good gauge to check your run out on 1) your sized brass and 2) your completed ammo.

I generally cull my fired off federal brass lol. I might use it once in my AR10s, but generally it is for the scrap.
Use Lapua and don't look back.
 
I consider federal brass to be JUNK with a capital J- I prefer Winchester or remmy when I can get it- I can't afford lap brass so I settle for what I know is second best
 
Thanks for all the replies

From what i read, the FX120 scale would be the first equipment upgrade down the road.
Not only for more precise powder measuring, but something i had not considered, weighing brass

And reload material wise, in the meanwhile of getting lapua brass, i could switch from my lots of Federal 1F to my lots of winchester 1F. Keep the federal for 150gr M14 plinking ammo. Will also switch for match primers next time i buy some.

My equipment. Savage 10TR bolt action, and caldwell chronograph. Also have the RCBS empty casing measuring tool to determine headspace. Altough i have no real idea what to do with my known headspace measurement.

Still into plinking and not serious target, as my chassis has not arrived yet.
I dont want to load develop right now as the chassis will allegedly change harmonics and would have to start over development
 
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Does your Lee die kit include the .308 collet die? If not, I swear by mine - sizes the neck in a unique way and I have noticed smooth, consistent bullet seating as well as excellent concentricity of loaded ammo. The die works a bit differently than most - check out some of the videos online, especially the one by "Ammosmith" on this die.

Keep asking questions and building your knowledge. Sounds like a good place to start based on your post above is understanding headspace measurement, what it means, bumping the shoulder back, neck re-sizing, and bullet seating depth.

Then of course there is ladder testing or Optimal Charge Weight to determine the best load - after you change your chassis of course.

It's a fun journey and the learning never ends!
 
OP, with your Lee trim die - is it the one that you install on the press, then file the case mouth? If so, do you have a chamfer and deburring tool for doing the inside and outside of the case mouth? Critical to accuracy.
 
Right now, my Lee Ultimate die set, comes with a full lenght resizer, which they say is to resize 1F brass shot from unknown rifle.
Also has a collet neck sizer, which is what they say you should use on your 2F brass that was fireformed to your bolt action chamber.

Yeah i guess Lapua brass will be my next investment, purchasing a Spuhr one piece scope ring mount in a week or two, once the cashflow gets back up Lapua brass will be my priority. I figure 300-500 pieces should maybe last my barrel life (expecting 6000)

As for headspace measurments or brass measurments, the only info i know of right now is how long is my chamber using a spent casing and RCBS precision mic, i know my OAL obviously, and trim lenght. All the rest i need serious reading as it's chinese temporarily. Been reloading bulk pistol for 5+ years (more than 60,000 rounds of 40) and rifle is a whole other world.

This is my Lee trimmer exactly : http://leeprecision.com/deluxe-quick-trim-case-trimmer.html
 
You can also start adjusting the jump. I found my Savage 10 FCP-K likes .010" jump with my 168 projectiles. This year I have changed projectiles to 175 grn and will have to see what that particular projectile likes.
 
maynard said:
Federal brass would be my last choice. Lapua being my first.
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FirearmsEnthusiast said:
Lapua brass, Varget and .... are your friends!

Tell us more and keep us posted on your progress.
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beltfed said:
I generally cull my fired off federal brass lol. I might use it once in my AR10s, but generally it is for the scrap.
Use Lapua and don't look back.
Click to expand...

t-star said:
I consider federal brass to be JUNK with a capital J- I prefer Winchester or remmy when I can get it- I can't afford lap brass so I settle for what I know is second best
Click to expand...

chrismc said:
Lapua brass will save you a bit-o-grief imho
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I learned on Federal brass and spent LOTS of time on it. I agree with the above IMO. Can't speak for other brass like Norma and Nosler but Lapua and PRVI are king here. From what I recall the common chamberings are not that expensive when compared to the touch labour (OCD) other brass may require for repeatable results. Winchester brass is the alternative based on my experiences.

FWIW

Regards
Ronr
 
What's your five shot group at 100 yards? if it's less than 1/2 moa, why bother buying all the fancy equipment. save the money, load more rounds. Most time at long range the new shooters cause more uncertainty than the equipment.
sad to see a reloading post not talking about accuracy.
 
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MartyK2500 said:
Right now, my Lee Ultimate die set, comes with a full lenght resizer, which they say is to resize 1F brass shot from unknown rifle.
Also has a collet neck sizer, which is what they say you should use on your 2F brass that was fireformed to your bolt action chamber.

Yeah i guess Lapua brass will be my next investment, purchasing a Spuhr one piece scope ring mount in a week or two, once the cashflow gets back up Lapua brass will be my priority. I figure 300-500 pieces should maybe last my barrel life (expecting 6000)

As for headspace measurments or brass measurments, the only info i know of right now is how long is my chamber using a spent casing and RCBS precision mic, i know my OAL obviously, and trim lenght. All the rest i need serious reading as it's chinese temporarily. Been reloading bulk pistol for 5+ years (more than 60,000 rounds of 40) and rifle is a whole other world.

This is my Lee trimmer exactly : http://leeprecision.com/deluxe-quick-trim-case-trimmer.html
Click to expand...

In my opinion you will probably run out of magazine length at around 4500 rounds.
I have gotten to 4500 rounds with 200 pieces of Lapua brass pushing 175 SMK's at 2600 fps.
I anneal after every other loading only because I can.
Don't forget your cost per round is close to $1.00 per round.
You will get to a point where your accuracy will begin to drop off and at that time it will probably be worth replacing the barrel for a match quality barrel sooner rather than later.
 
Does anyone else remember Warren Page? He was THE guru in the fifties and the author of "The Accurate Rifle" and a bench rest champion.
He measured the case neck thicknesses of hundreds of .308 W cases and found seven that had perfectly consistent neck thicknesses. There were five different makes of the seven and he used these cases for a season of BR shooting.
This was before neck turners became available.
Neck turning is always a good idea if you're after accuracy.
 
I saw a chart somewhere where someone measured 50 shells each of Federal, Remington, Winchester, Nosler, Hornady, and Lapua.
The last 3 companies were MUCH closer in regards to shell weight variation across the 50 shells. In my humble opinion, of my above, Hornady represents a pretty good value if you buy 40 rounds and weigh your tumbled casings before reloading them. You can also use the factory rounds as a benchmark to compare against your handloads.
I just had the misfortune of reloading Federal 223. My Aguila shells were 10x easier to reload.
 
MartyK2500 said:
And reload material wise, in the meanwhile of getting lapua brass, i could switch from my lots of Federal 1F to my lots of winchester 1F. Keep the federal for 150gr M14 plinking ammo. Will also switch for match primers next time i buy some.

My equipment. Savage 10TR bolt action, and caldwell chronograph. Also have the RCBS empty casing measuring tool to determine headspace. Altough i have no real idea what to do with my known headspace measurement.

Still into plinking and not serious target, as my chassis has not arrived yet.
Click to expand...

You could certainly use the federal with your M14, but in my experience it stretches out quite fast (sometimes after the first or second firing). Usually it is loosened primer pockets. With An M14 and the federal this could include incipient case head separation - I just wouldn't bother. For your M14, that is a whole other kettle of fish. Look at Zediker's page and the CMP website for good articles on loading for that rifle. Your Winchester brass would be good to use in the M14.

Lapua brass should probably be on the top of your list of equipment, IMHO. Dedicate it to your bolt gun. Your ammo will benefit from it, and all of this sorting, neck turning, etc. for brass prep isn't really required with .308 Lapua. Load it, shoot it, and repeat.

Once you've settled and want to continue chasing the dragon, you can putz with that stuff. Many, many competition winning shooters don't bother with the nitty gritty of that stuff, though - so read into that what you will.
 
Thanks all for the replies
In my first post i had written Lapua brass, as i knew it had some importance down the road once i commit more to it, but had not realised it was my very next step.
As soon as i free up more fun funds, i'll buy something like 500 casings of .308 Lapua brass.
Some of you guys mentionned that using quality brass saves prepping, and less prepping is good, as i had posted in earlier threads, i hate reloading, but love to shoot affordable custom match ammo.
It's a means to my ends, and am ready to complicate the loading process anyways for better ammo, it's just a chore.
 
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