NF 5.5-22x56 NXS v.s. S&B 5-25x56

kertef

kertef

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This is my second year of rifle shooting and after learning a little about F-class I am looking into the different scopes available in the high end range. 2 models I am interested in are the NF 5.5-22x56 NXS and S&B 5-25x56.

As far as price goes I am wondering how much extra do you get from the S&B over the NF for the extra $1400 or so other than the obvious extra magnification.

As someone new to long range shooting I would much rather have equipment I won't be able to out shoot for a very long time if ever and am prepared to pay the extra money involved.

When it comes to selecting turrets what are the benefits to each mil radian and MOA clicks and what is each persons reason for choosing each one.

I appreciate all input and look forward to the responses.
 
NXS is worth every penny, I love mine. I find it hard to belive that a scope can get any better...but they say you get what you pay for. From reading what others say about S&B, once you buy one you'll never want anything else.

From a competition stand point, Mils are too coarse for target shooting and F-class. You'll want 1/4 or 1/8 MOA adjustability. My NXS has the MLR retilcle and 1/10 mil is actually quite coarse when trying to hit really small targets. If I were to buy my NXS again, I would get the NP-R1 with 1/8 MOA clicks and zero-stop.
 
I think you are comparing base model NXS to a PM2. The S&B PM2 (FFP P4F) is what I am assuming you are comparing to the NF 5.5-22x56 NXS (SFP) If I am wrong then please advise but this what you are getting for 1400:

1.) Front Focal Plane vs Second Focal Plane - bit of a big deal here. On a FFP your reticle demarcations are good for any magnification on a SFP your reticle is only good for 1 magnification (frequently it is the highest). You may or may not care about this feature but if you are ranging and using the reticle for holdovers a FFP is the way to go here. If you crank your scope to the highest setting and leave it there then this feature is pretty pricey

2.) Magnification - you are getting 4x erector on the NXS and a 5x erector on the S&B.

3.) Coatings/Glass - you are getting better glass - some may argue that this is subjective but trust me S&B glass is better. Is it miles better - probably not but if you are shooting at distance at small targets you want nice clear glass with a high level of contrast. NXS is good but S&B is better.

4.) Zero Stop Turret (Elevation) - The PM2 has a dual turn zero stop turret. It means that you can (Depending on your cartridge) go out from 100m to up 2000m in 2 spins of the elevation turret. When you are done shooting at distance spin the dial alway the back w/o looking and you get to zero. If you are not a tactical shooter or someone who frequently cranks dials this may or may not be important.

With the NXS you can purchase a zero stop front focal plane version but this is no longer the 18-2000 dollar model you are describing. Frequently, depending on where you shop you will be within 800 dollars of the S&B configured similarly. At which point you need to decide if you want to commit to a S&B or an NXS.
 
I own a 5.5x22x56 NXS scope. I love it, personally.

I've used S&B optics on the Tac 50, as well as a Shortdot. The optics were crystal clear, and tough as hell.

I'm sure that either choice will serve you well - but as Glock4ever mentioned, you need to determine whether a FFP or SFP optic will be most appropriate.
 
+1 Glock4ever.

I own both scopes and there are a couple of additional points I'd like to make. I don't like the feature of turning the ocular at the same time as the zoom on the NF. That's particularly annoying when you have scope caps on.

Also the parallax ajustment serves 2 functions on both scopes - parallax and scope focus (as opposed to reticle focus in the ocular). On the NF that I own, the parallax fix is not exactly where the optimum focus is. In other words, as I set the parallax to zero, the scope is not at its optimum clarity. If I set to clarity, the parallax is off a little. On the S&B both are perfect on the same setting. I don't know if that's true of all NF and S&B scopes but it is sure noticeable on mine.
 
I really appreciate the detailed response Glock4ever and by the sounds of things FFP would be my best bet as it will allow me more in terms of different styles of shooting.

With the dual turn zero stop turrets on the PM2 how does it exactly work. If you zero at 200yards and set it does it make it so that lets say you dial in 5moa and are done shooting and spin it back, does it stop at your 200 yard zero?

For a scope such as the S&B what is the best setup for a scope rail and rings that will fit on a Savage 10?
 
Moosetracker said:
+1 Glock4ever.

I own both scopes and there are a couple of additional points I'd like to make. I don't like the feature of turning the ocular at the same time as the zoom on the NF. That's particularly annoying when you have scope caps on.

Also the parallax ajustment serves 2 functions on both scopes - parallax and scope focus (as opposed to reticle focus in the ocular). On the NF that I own, the parallax fix is not exactly where the optimum focus is. In other words, as I set the parallax to zero, the scope is not at its optimum clarity. If I set to clarity, the parallax is off a little. On the S&B both are perfect on the same setting. I don't know if that's true of all NF and S&B scopes but it is sure noticeable on mine.
Click to expand...



I'd touch base with NF... That doesn't soundright at all, FFP or SFP...
 
Kertef: You hit it on the head - you go to the range and establish your zero - I use 100m for my 338 LM and then you unscrew the cap and reset the dial to zero. It is that easy. The dial won't let you go past your zero. For a Savage - I would get the TPS 34mm rings and 20 MOA base. This will easily get you out 1000m on a .308 (probably even further) if you want to go past 1000m you should look to some sort of magnum as it will give you more oomph for say 1500-2000m shooting (flatter as well) The S&B has enough adjustment to get out pretty far but you should really determine the distance you want to shoot at first before buying your base and rings. 20MOA is pretty standard but you can get more angle if you need it...

Read this article on optics:

http://demigodllc.com/articles/optics-for-long-range-rifle-shooting-2009-update/

It is very detailed and explains better than I could how to pick optics and what purposes they serve. Zak also has a great article on the .338LM as well in the database. Before you rush out and buy a 5-25x56mm scope - you need to consider the rifle you are putting it on. These are big scopes - I mean really big. In my opinion I think that they are overkill for anything smaller then a 300 Magnum (either Win or Win Short). Most rifles don't need such large optics for practical shooting. I happen to have one for my .338LM but I would never get one of these for a .308 Win. My 700 LTR has a 3.5-10x40mm LR/T M2 FFP (custom) which is in my view a good sized optic for the effective range of this round.

I would add that if all you want to do is shoot at known distance ranges - it may not matter how big your rifle gets but if you want to carry this in the field this will be pretty weighty. My .338LM fully kitted out is 18lbs.
 
Excellent article, really covered everything I needed.

The one question I have that I keep seeing come up is how everyone seems to recommend matching your reticle to your turrets i.e. Mildot or Milhash reticle to Mil Click Turrets. Yet it seems S&B only offers Mil Reticles and MOA Turrets, what is the reason for this?
 
Sorry but Ive never owned a NightForce or S&B, but I've owened a few Sightrons and was very impressed. The limiteing factor compared to the more expensive ones Im guessing are the adjustments and reticles.

Just a though if you dont feel like spending upwards of $2000 for a scope like me!
 
If you are shooting F-Class, I'd very much doubt you'd take advantage of FFP, or the advantages the S&B has over the NXS line of scopes...but I don't shoot F-Class, so maybe get some of the shooters you compete with to chime in...
 
Im interested in both F-Class as well as tactical long range where I think FFP would be most useful where as in F-Class I'm sure it wouldnt provide any sort of advantage, someone can correct me if I'm wrong I am new to all of this after all :)
 
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