No.1 Mk.III Trigger Pull

Drachenblut

Drachenblut

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Hello,

Ok fellows here is the situation. I stripped, cleaned, oiled and wiped down my entire No.I Mk.III 1917 Dated Enfield. No issues. I took it to the range, and though getting 4 inch groups on irons at 150 yards, I noticed that I may have made a mistake putting the trigger back into place.. where as before I noticed I had a rather crisp "Pull....stop...pull BANG" Now, I find the secondary trigger pull is virtually non existant, if it's there it's really a hair trigger. I got quite the shock when I set up for a shot down range and pulled the trigger back normally and she went off. Any ideas?

D
 
My first guess would be that during reassembly, maybe the forend didn't get pushed all the way on the receiver, or something else got missed. How tight was the forend when you took it off? I guess I should probably start by asking - how involved was the stripping.

Lou
 
With a No1 you need to remove the butt to avoid damaging the forstock. You should alway note the torque on the king and rear triggerguard screws. If you disassembled correctly I would check to see if the trgger has been correctly engaged on the face of the sear; then if the king screw space is in place. Sounds like you've overtigten the king screw and got too much pressure on the action. When done the barrel is resting on its bedding points and going to shoot poorly. Hope this helps.
 
Hi... stupid questions time... what's a king screw? Do you have a link to a diagram? I think I may have not engaged the trigger on the sear... though I'm not sure how I would go about doing it that way. Why would you have to remove the butt if you just wanted to pull the barrel up and out of the reciever. I could not find a guide so I sort of winged the proceedure... took out the screws and retightend etc... some help would be appreciated, I'm new at this
 
The long screw for the butt has a square head on it and protrudes through the butt sockett and generally embeds into the forend. Pulling down on the forend with the butt screw in place will generally split or shear off some of the wood and the contact area at the rear is no longer good. The king screw is the large screw in front of the magazine. Sound to me like you either do not have the trigger correctly engaged against the sear and perhaps the action is not setting down in the original position in the stock.
 
Sounds like your right there rgg 7. i will have to strip her down again and re-set the contacts and the trigger sear. Is there a guide or diagram to help me with this searing issue?
As for affected accuracy, she seems to be bedded well enough, I was getting a inch/half inch group at 50 yards with winchester super x ammo.
Also, I have a No.5 Mk.I I love. 11/44 made, bore is immaculate, no pits, good rifling. Accuracy is great and I am afraid to take her apart and somehow mess up the accuracy. What affects the accuracy when you re-assemble it?
 
Regarding some of the instructions noted here, I think a correction is in order. According to the Lee-Enfield Rifle website at http://enfieldrifles.profusehost.net, the order of removal is the forend first and buttstock second. This is because the butt screw end is squared and fits into a mortise slot on the back of the wood forend. The screw is squarely aligned in quarter-turns and thus cannot loosen while the rifle is assembled. If the screw is turned with the forend in place, the squared end of the screw will split the wood on the mortised end of the forend. With all due respect to rgg 7, the forend must therefore be removed before the buttstock.

Skennerton also has a paperbound book with a yellow cover in his series on Commonwealth weapons. This book has good info on stripping, reassembly, etc.

Hope this helps. If the king screw is loose, the pull can change from double to single due to incorrect sear alignment. This happens on the No.4 Mk. 1 and 1* as well.
 
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