No.4 Mk.1 Questions

mmattockx

mmattockx

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I just inherited a bubba'd No.4 Mk.1 and have a few questions on it. I know nothing about Enfields and need a little guidance.

1) The mag is a bear to remove and insert. I know they were loaded with stripper clips normally and I can see why. It is nothing like swapping out mags on a 1911 Colt. Can I just load individual rounds through the action or do I need to buy a stack of stripper clips? Are all Enfield stripper clips the same and work in all models of L-E?

2) The wood is beat, with the finish worn off much of the buttstock. What should I strip it with to refinish? I figure on a light sanding to smooth off some rough patches then probably boiled linseed oil unless someone has a better oil type finish to use.

3) It has the micrometer sights (is that the correct name?) with a large aperture for quick shots and the finer aperture on the rack and pinion for longer ranges. What range is the big aperture zeroed for?

4) Is there a decent no-gunsmithing scope mount that will fit?

Thanks,
Mark
 
1) Leave the mag in. They were not meant to be removed other than for cleaning. Load it thru the action with chargers or singly.

2) BLO is the correct military finish.

3) The battle sight is 300 yds.
 
The mag is usually a Bi*ch to remove, In mine its hard as hell. You can put rounds in one at a time, I do it all the time if I am too lazy to load the strippers. All strippers for the LE will fit all LE rifles. I got mine off Ebay.

As for the wood, furniture stripper is what the restorers use, after that, a few coats of boiled linseed oil will finish it.

If i recall, the battle sight (large aperture) is sighted in to 300 yards. And for a no gunsmithing mount, I am at a loss on that one, but I heard they are not very good.

Edit: whoops, Stevo got to it first.
 
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As mentionned, the battle sight zero was 300 yards. This was based on Mk. VII ammunition, and the installation of the appropriate front sight. You will have to shoot your rifle, and find out what is going on. The front sight can be changed as needed.
Most of the scope mounts available will set the scope rather high, relative to the comb level of the stock.
 
Re. Mag difficult to remove - it is better when at the very least it is possible to remove it without Herculean strength. Remove the trigger guard, then the forend, then figure out which metal part is causing this, then adjust the metal part. You don't want the mag to fall out on its own but it's indeed supposed to be removable without making your fingers bleed.

Lou
 
If the wood is totally soaked all the way in with pure BLO it will survive tough conditions for years, but it may be difficult (or time consuming) to get it soaked...

Danish oil is usually Linseed oil with driers in it so it'll dry quicker (but will penetrate the wood less deeply).

Lou
 
If the mag is really difficult to remove,..might be that someone put on a SMLE No.1 mk3* mag .. a SMLE mag looks the same,.but has a different method of holding as compared to the NO.4 rifle....easy to get mixed up with a newby to Lee Enfields.
 
A Lee Enfiled can be loaded singly by placing a round in the mag, from the top, or directly into the chamber.

Please note that this is different than a Mauser, which has to be loaded from the magazine. If a round is placed in the Mauser chamber the extractor probabobly wont snap over the rim. The rifle is out of commission until the round can ber poked out. The extractor might break, too.

For the Lee there is no need of a clip unless you are in a match where re-loading in a hurry is required - but the 10 shot magazine is usully big enough without needing re-loading.
 
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x westie said:
If the mag is really difficult to remove,..might be that someone put on a SMLE No.1 mk3* mag .. a SMLE mag looks the same,.but has a different method of holding as compared to the NO.4 rifle....easy to get mixed up with a newby to Lee Enfields.
Click to expand...

It is not REALLY difficult to remove, not in a way that suggests it is the incorrect mag and jammed into place. The catch on the mag and the release inside the trigger guard look like a match for each other. But the spring on the release is Herculean in stiffness and the mag is a snug fit into the well. I think it was meant to be that way and used with stripper clips. No big issue for me, I just wanted to be sure as I am a total newb to Enfields.

Thanks to all for the info, I will take a look at finishes in my local Home Depot. I think I want to use BLO for the historical factor as much as anything. Even though it was bubba'd, I would like to keep it a true to history Enfield. The gun will not see massive amounts of use in inclement weather, so I am not too worried about the protection. Mostly I want to make it look good again, instead of worn out. Will the BLO darken the wood much? I will post a pic to show how light the wood is where it is worn off.

Mark
 
Here is a quick shot to show the wood condition. It is very light and faded looking on the butt and fore stock where the finish is worn through. Will BLO darken this up some?

100_0653.jpg


Thanks,
Mark
 
Battle sight zero

tiriaq said:
As mentionned, the battle sight zero was 300 yards. This was based on Mk. VII ammunition, and the installation of the appropriate front sight. You will have to shoot your rifle, and find out what is going on. The front sight can be changed as needed.
Most of the scope mounts available will set the scope rather high, relative to the comb level of the stock.
Click to expand...

The battle sight zero is 300 yards with BAYONET FIXED. It's actually closer to the 400 setting on the ladder.
 
mmattockx said:
Here is a quick shot to show the wood condition. It is very light and faded looking on the butt and fore stock where the finish is worn through. Will BLO darken this up some?

100_0653.jpg


Thanks,
Mark
Click to expand...

BLO will darken it a little. You will notice it darken slightly right after you apply it. After about three months it will darken even more. It will most likely be just a touch lighter then the dark portion on yours. My first rifle was a sportered No.1 MkIII* and I re finished the stock with BLO. Before I applied the oil it was a bright yellow color, now (Three months later) it is a handsome gold color.
 
LeeEnfieldNo.4_mk1 said:
BLO will darken it a little. You will notice it darken slightly right after you apply it. After about three months it will darken even more. It will most likely be just a touch lighter then the dark portion on yours. My first rifle was a sportered No.1 MkIII* and I re finished the stock with BLO. Before I applied the oil it was a bright yellow color, now (Three months later) it is a handsome gold color.
Click to expand...

Hmmm. I would like it to be darker than the dark areas on it now. Can I stain it, then do the BLO or is BLO not good over a stain? Any other oils that may darken it up more than the BLO? I have seen some nice finishes with Tung oil, maybe that should be my choice.

Mark
 
If you dont strip it, the newly applied oil will not penetrate evenly ie the existing finish will block absorption, giving a mottled effect.
BLO will go over stain. Just bear in mind that BLO is primitive compared to todays finishes. It will feel greasy when wet, and allow the stock to take on water. I use BLO on my full military rifles, as was done originally. I use tung oil, or danish oil for hunting rifles. Tung oil will darken it slightly, Danish Oil is available in various stains.
 
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