No consistency

Sunray,

They shortened the barrel.

I figure if it was bulged, I'd pretty much forget about that barrel, but that's in a perfect fantasy world.

In the real one, I'd probably be hard pressed to use better than a 2" group anyways, and 8" (minute of pie plate) at 250 yards would cover anything I have shot at in the last 20 plus years, other than gophers...

Cheers
Trev
 
Its not as easy as it sounds until you find the problem. I'm going to check out the scope base screws again today. I believe the hole in the receiver is not blind and therefor they can't bottom out. Got myself a Utica torque measuring screwdriver, so I hope the Farrel instructions have torque numbers for the screws. I'll try again when I get my scope back. I could live with 1 1/2 at 100 yards, would be happy with 1" and amazed if I got a tighter group than that considering the long thin barrel. But having them up to 4" off is way too much. What good's a magnum if you can't use its flat trajectory?
 
Sunray, All of the work done is by a gunsmith that has about 40 years in the business so it's been done right. My description of the process may be a little off. And yes I did chop the stock but that was to compensate for the length of my arms not the bulge. :D The rifle is in very good shape and bore is very good except the very slight bulge right at the end of the barrel.
 
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barrel problems

Occasionaly barrels leave the production plants with the exterior machined non-concentric to the bore. This gives us a situation where there is more material on one side of the barrel than the other.
When the gun is shot the problem manifests itself by producing groups that string in one particular direction as the barrel heats up, the hotter the barrel the more the tube bends. And it allways warps toward the direction of least resistance.
If you were an experimenting type of guy you could set the barrel back into the reciever half a turn recut the chamber to spec and I bet you would find that the barrel would string in a downard direction.
This would only be to prove a point as you would still have a barrel that would drive you nuts as far as accuracy is concerned.
Savage warranty should take care of this, as it sounds like you have done more than your part allready to try and make a shooter out of this gun.
Regards David.
 
Got the scope back from Korth Group, the Leupold repair folks here in Canada. Very fast service. The invoice (no charge) says

Complaint: Point of impact

Services Performed:

Complete internal inspection
Reworked System and Selector
Recollimated
Mechanical inspection
refilled / water tested

Any idea what this means in terms of whether they found a problem? What does reworked system and selector mean? Was something loose or out of adjustment?
 
Longshot said:
Sometimes you just have to realize that certain rifles aren't capable of 1 inch groups not matter what you do to them.
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3-4" at 100 yards is too much. And the vertical stringing gives me hopes that its a curable problem. Time will tell. Wish I understood what the scope repair sheet means. Was there a problem?
 
TedB said:
Come on now, don't let this thread drop here. You got the scope back, so what happened? Did the rework solve the problem?
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Just got the scope back from service today. I'll post the results the first chance I get to go out and do some testing. I am actually going to ditch the Leupold and use a new Burris I just bought. I'm going to use the Leupold on my Savage muzzleloader instead. I think the ballistic plex on the Burris will be useful on the 300WM. If the scope doesn't fix the problem, I'm ready to blame the barrel.
 
sunray said:
"...Tried putting pressure points..." One, not several. Put the pressure point about an inch or so aft of the end of the forestock. Leave the rest of the channel alone.
"...the stock was changing with the humidity..." Unsealed wooden stocks will do that. Now that you're getting consistent groups, it's time to work on the load. Mind you, some rifles will only shoot so well.
"...off came 3/4 of an inch..." You shortened the stock? You should have sanded out the barrel channel.
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He cut the barrel
 
Got out and re-sighted it in last night with the new scope. The accuracy in my opinion is unacceptable. I tried both 165 and 180 factory loads and the groups at 100 yards are poor. Good enough for a deers vitals at 100 yards, but that's not what I bought a 300WM for. I wanted a long range rifle. I even had one shot 4 1/4" to the right of centre. Either I buy a new barrel or I disassemble the gun and sell it for parts. Looks like the Sharp shooter supply trigger, laminate stock and Farrel scope mount were all lipstick on a pig.
 
First thing I would do now is bed a pressure point back in about 1.5 inches from the end of the stock. Then try another brand of ammo or some handloads. If that doesn't work I would like to start the bidding at $50 for the complete package.:p
 
Similar mis-adventure to what I have.
My next step is to correct the bedding so that there is 2" of bedding under the barrel (it's a Mauser), if that doesn't fix it a pressure point as described above.

If it still won't shoot straight then it's time for a new barrel.
 
What are the chances that a pressure point on a laminate stock will be consistent with changes in temperature? I'm thinking a laminate should be the best candidate, but I'd hate to have it shoot tight groups but not be where it was when I sighted it in in the fall because now its -15.
 
Strung out groups with a rifle that has a wood stock and a light/pencil type barrel isn't really that much of a surprise is it? I'm sure a heavier profile barrel would help.
 
Your laminate stock is very stable. The pressure point shouldn't change much with the temp, it is more about reducing the barrel vibration.
 
Longshot said:
Strung out groups with a rifle that has a wood stock and a light/pencil type barrel isn't really that much of a surprise is it? I'm sure a heavier profile barrel would help.
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I've got an M70 featherweight which is wood and a skimpy barrel and it's a solid MOA rifle. I'm not positive how it's bedded but I would think that from the factory it would not be free-floated.
 
I'm not saying that some rifles aren't capable of MOA or less.All I'm saying is that it's not that surprising considering.Remember it's a hunting rifle not a precision rifle.I think a new barrel would be the best bet at getting this bad boy to shoot to grizzlypegs standards.
One thing I learned in Bisley is that sometimes you are going to get a rifle that can't shoot a one inch group at 100m no matter what kind of tinkering you do to it or how badly you want it to.You either except it and carry on or you start replacing parts like barrels.But even then there is no guarantee it will shoot.
 
I'll lend or sell you a new unfired barrel if you can swap it. Send me the rifle if you want and I'll do it. Otherwise, there should be a warranty dealer in winnipeg, can't remember his name at the moment.

Cheers,
Rob
 
I'm currently bedding the barrel about an inch's worth, one inch from the tip of the foreend of the stock. I've applied 5 lbs upward pressure while the epoxy sets. Rob, I appreciate your offer. It will be interesting to see if this has any effect. The stock is a Boyd's target varminter laminate. Its quite robust in the foreend and shouldn't be too sensitive to flex.
 
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