No1 mk3 bending cases

Tinman204

Tinman204

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So I bought a 1916 no1 mk3 Sporter as some of may know from my previous thread. Before shooting it for the first time today I measured the headspace with a spent case that I measured the rim and shim I made from a feeler . I then added the rim measurement and the shim measurement together. I could close the bolt all the way but it was very tight. The headspace I got was .069 from that method. Beimg satisfied with the headspace I shot it, I inspected the cases and knowticed 7 out of 10 seem like they expanded ununiformley. They're straight except the primer end is cocked a little. The barrel is shiny, rifling good etc. This gun was unfired for 20 years plus and the previous owner who is a friend of mine said he only shot it to hunt once a year. That being said could this be a worn out barrel at the back end or excessive headspace still?

Any help would be appreciated!

Thanks Steve
 
It's just a sign of a generously sized chamber, as was common in lee enfields. The bolt holds the cartridge in a given position in the chamber, not necessarily centered, and when it fires, it expands unevenly. Not really anything to worry about as long as you're not getting splits in the case.
 
Thanks for the quick replys. I was shooting 150 grain run of the mil federal ammo. It may be best to post this in the reloading section but I'll ask here, I'm looking to start reloading for the first time. Can I reload these cases granted that they're not split which they aren't even if they are slightly cocked? If they're sized for length etc will I still be able to press the bullets in straight?
 
I'm not sure but myself being pretty green at reloading I didn't chance it. I have 150 of the once fired saamni spec cases in a bag in my gunroom. I won't load them again. Instead I've been using PRVI cases. Theyt are mil spec like these rifles are chambered for and do not deform at all.
 
I have some cases marked "imperial" they seem to be straight and not deformed at all they seem to be good candidates for reloading. I sware I've read that people put a rubber band around they're brand new brass for the first firing and it helps the bullet seat better in the chamber lessening the chance of a deformed case.
 
Tinman204 said:
So I bought a 1916 no1 mk3 Sporter as some of may know from my previous thread. Before shooting it for the first time today I measured the headspace with a spent case that I measured the rim and shim I made from a feeler . I then added the rim measurement and the shim measurement together. I could close the bolt all the way but it was very tight. The headspace I got was .069 from that method. Beimg satisfied with the headspace I shot it, I inspected the cases and knowticed 7 out of 10 seem like they expanded ununiformley. They're straight except the primer end is cocked a little. The barrel is shiny, rifling good etc. This gun was unfired for 20 years plus and the previous owner who is a friend of mine said he only shot it to hunt once a year. That being said could this be a worn out barrel at the back end or excessive headspace still?

Any help would be appreciated!

Thanks Steve
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I have once fired 303 brass you can have.Just paying it forward to a fellow gun nut. PM me for details and i'll send it to you. Mine is a 1917 and no problems.
 
Tinman204 said:
Thanks for the quick replys. I was shooting 150 grain run of the mil federal ammo. It may be best to post this in the reloading section but I'll ask here, I'm looking to start reloading for the first time. Can I reload these cases granted that they're not split which they aren't even if they are slightly cocked? If they're sized for length etc will I still be able to press the bullets in straight?
Click to expand...

you can neck size. Then you're not trying to push the shoulder back to where it was. RCBS no#15430.

Lots of threads here regarding reloading for the 303.

god luck =)
 
Like I say all of mine do it from my Ross MkI right up to my LE No1,4,5s, Parker-Hale converted No4, you name it. Shoot PRVI or Dominion, Imperial etc that uses the thicker rim and it stays straight. Guys on here have also suggested using a rubber band ahead of the rim to keep the case pressed back against the bolt, basically sucks up the excess headspace left by the thinner rim of the SAAMI spec cases.
 
flying pig said:
Like I say all of mine do it from my Ross MkI right up to my LE No1,4,5s, Parker-Hale converted No4, you name it. Shoot PRVI or Dominion, Imperial etc that uses the thicker rim and it stays straight. Guys on here have also suggested using a rubber band ahead of the rim to keep the case pressed back against the bolt, basically sucks up the excess headspace left by the thinner rim of the SAAMI spec cases.
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Thanks for the info, I got a whole bunch of brass with this gun and a lot of it is imperial. I see what you mean about it having a thicker rim on it. I happen to have a bunch of ammo and some small o rings, think I'm going to try that method for next 10 rounds and compare the difference.
 
When you get around to reloading, try the Lee Collet Die; it neck-sizes only and does nothing else to your brass.

If you have brass from another rifle, likely it will need to be FL sized. Lubricating the INSIDE of the case-mouth will minimise stretch wonderfully so you can re-use without trimming, most likely. THEN you use the rubber O-rings (I use pony-tail ties from the Dollar Store $1 for 100) which will centralise the brass in your chamber, THEN you use the Collet Die.

You are now on your way to making Match-grade ammo.

For a HUNTING load try a 150 Hornady Spire Point with 40 grains of 4064. Seat the bullet so the WHOLE cannelure shows. This load is as hot as I would want to go with an SMLE; it pretty much duplicates a .308W but the Rifle will handle it.

For a TARGET load which works fine on Moose, use the Sierra 180 Pro-Hunter with 38 grains of 4895. Seat to the OAL of a Ball round. This is NOT a heavy load (2250ft/sec) but it WILL settle a Moose AND it is extremely accurate.

For fresh ammo at $1.20 a box, or better stuff at $2 a box, load with a 180 CAST bullet (LEE makes a double-cavity mould for $25, use wheelweights for metal). Lee has a gas-check seater/bulet sizer at $18 that woks fine. Load with 13 (THIRTEEN) grains of Red Dot shotgun powder. You get 538 shots to the pound of powder, you get 1850 ft/sec out of your free bullets and you get about 2 MOA out of your rifle: 1-inch groupd at 50- yards, 2 inches at 100 yards, gophers out to 200 yards. Quiet, low recoil and your barrel will last FOREVER. Hornady makes gas-checks at $31 a thousand, which is where the price difference comes in; you CAN shoot the cast bullet without them, but some rifles shoot better WITH them.

Hope this helps.
 
Smellie, the last round you described is exactly what I want to reload. I really enjoy plinking/target shooting and simply don't need a very powerful round to serve my needs. My wife has severe nerve damage in her left arm causing reduced strength and grip but still enjoys shooting. She is like me a new shooter and is sometimes wanting to try the bigger guns. I would rather give her a lower recoiling round to shoot, one that won't scare the crap out of her! Also if I can keep the wear and tear on the barrel to a minimum that's not a bad thing either. Well still shopping for presses, reading books and watching videos etc. Soon I will start collecting reloading gear so this winter I can pass the time practicing my reloading skills.
 
Tinman204 said:
Can I reload these cases granted that they're not split which they aren't even if they are slightly cocked?
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I'm not sure what you mean by "cocked"- do you mean stretched at the web of the case? Could you post a few pictures of this brass?
 
Brass can also look a bit odd if the case walls are thinner on one side than on the other. Looks as if it is bent. This is accentuated by the generous chamber.
 
tiriaq said:
Brass can also look a bit odd if the case walls are thinner on one side than on the other. Looks as if it is bent. This is accentuated by the generous chamber.
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I believe that's what's going on. I just wasn't sure, as this is my second gun and first milsurp. The other thing is my buddy that I got it from said it hasn't been fired for 20 years. The bore, rifling, headspace all checked out. I'm the type of guy that has to take things apart and understand how things work. I figured I'd ask the question so some of you guys could let me know what's going on. The cases are stretched unevenly at the web and a couple are stretched enough that if you put the case on a level surface it leans one way. It stretched more on one side then the other at the web, causing the case to be "cocked" to one side and is buldged out a little bit at the web.
 
Reloading can be done, but the Lee-Enfield is infamous for separated heads - and let me tell you, that really sucks if you haven't got the tool to remove it.

The rubber band or O-ring trick keeps the base hard against the bolt face while the rest expands. That's easier on the case. Neck size and you'll get maybe four or five reloads before they start to go. Resize full-length and you'll be lucky to get one if your chamber is large enough. Using PRVI, Dominion or Imperial helps a lot, but good luck finding the latter two these days.

It's just the price we pay for the pleasure of shooting these old girls.
 
I use Lee Collet dies and Prvi and IVI brass - new commercial brass for the 303 isn't really adequate. I actually prefer the Prvi to the IVI. When you get another LE, make sure you keep your brass seperated.
 
ATOM said:
Reloading can be done, but the Lee-Enfield is infamous for separated heads - and let me tell you, that really sucks if you haven't got the tool to remove it.

The rubber band or O-ring trick keeps the base hard against the bolt face while the rest expands. That's easier on the case. Neck size and you'll get maybe four or five reloads before they start to go. Resize full-length and you'll be lucky to get one if your chamber is large enough. Using PRVI, Dominion or Imperial helps a lot, but good luck finding the latter two these days.

It's just the price we pay for the pleasure of shooting these old girls.
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I got 80 or so once fired pieces of brass with this gun, and all of them were fired by this gun. A good portion of the brass is imperial so I guess I lucked out. 99% of the old brass given to me is perfectly expanded and don't look stretched. The rest is old federal but they sure seem thicker then the new federal cases that I fired yesterday. So I guess if I want to reload I should look for milspec brass or rounds rather then buying the normal Remington etc. brass that seems to be for sale around here?
 
If brass fits tight in the chamber and you DON'T load her to the nuts, the brass will last a lot longer.

How long?

I don't know.

I DO have a box here which has been 15 times through my Mark III Ross. It STILL does not require trimming. My load for the Ross is 2 grains under the load I gave for the SMLE with the Sierra 180 Pro-Hunter bullet. That extra 5 inches of barrel brings the MV back up to 2335: about 200 ft/sec less than you get with MilSpec ammo in the same rifle.

Go easy on the brass and you get better ACCURACY..... and it is much easier on the pocketbook.

I am using 1942 - 1945 Defence Industries brass in all my old .303s.

Hope this helps.
 
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