No4 charger bridge replacement

quinnbrian

quinnbrian

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No4 charger bridge replacement...can it be done? I have a couple that have been drilled and tapped. And would like to replace them, with new ones. Both of them are on factory sporter...so no mil surplus will be hurt in the process...lol

I'm also going to try my hand at cutting the chamber back ( want to try to make a 7.62x39) out of one of my old sporter. I think, it'll be my Parker Hale, built on a Long Branch receiver.
Its pretty bad , when revamping a chamber , doesn't bother you and a bridge removal and replacement does....:rolleyes:

I think I'll uses a mini 30 mag...that's what everyone said , will or...any thoughts?
First things first...I have to make the barrel wrench and receiver fixture...Yes I know you can buy them..but I like to make stuff :)
BUT EVERYTIME I LOOK at the bridge...will you know..
Any help would be great.:wave:
I was going to put this in the gunsmith forum...but thought mil surplus are where all the LE guys are...but if need be, please move to the right forum.
Cheers
Brian
 
The charger bridges are press fit if I remember and would not be easy to replace.

A better and easier option to trying to replace a Charger Bridge is to find some screws that fit, "glue" them in with some loctite bearing retainer (permanent stuff), cut of the screw so its flush and file flat. Touch up with blue and unless you look closely you probably wont notice.

Cheap, and effective.

Or, since this will be a project rifle anyways, you can just find a mount to match the holes and throw a scope on it.
 
If you talking about the charger bridge insert it's either welded or screwed with "blind screws". Look carefully at the outside edges and you'll see a small circle on each side. Drill these out to head depth and pop out the charger insert. Replace reverse process. If welded you will need to mill it out. done a few. Ron.
 
Thanks guys for the response...I was thinking milling it out, or tig the the hole close, but was worried about shrinkage..there is 2 holes on the one bridge.
 
Holes could be filled with plug screws, tiny TIG to finish, dress smooth. Or, replace the bar, as suggested.
As far as pulling the barrel goes - No. 4 barrels can be tight. If you are going to alter it to 7.62x39, cut a relief groove around the barrel breech, just in front of the receiver ring - 1/16" or so, 1/8" deep - with a hacksaw. This will reduce the torque required to unscrew the barrel.
I have heard that a properly shortened .303 chamber will work with 7.62x39 as is. I don't know, I have a reamer, so didn't try. You can also set the barrel up to use a Savage style barrel nut.
 
Good to know tiriaq,
I heard of putting the grove around to reduce tension, but never thought of using a Savage type locking ring/nut, sounds like a great idea, and there will be enough threads on the barrel to do so....Nice! very Nice!
 
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