No4 Mk1 Lee Enfield - Need help identifying and possibly fixing
- Thread starter bluemike807
- Start date
bluemike807
CGN Regular
- Location
- Eastern Ontario
No, in fact the only marking on it is on the middle of the ridge on the back of the magazine where it slots into the release mechanism.
Its an S in a square box, stamped.
Its an S in a square box, stamped.
Savage manufacture proof
bluemike807
CGN Regular
- Location
- Eastern Ontario
Thats what I figured. So much for all matching parts. Still, I wish I knew the story behind this old beater - if it ever saw combat, where and with whom.
Were Canadian soldiers issued weapons from random manufacture, or was it nationality by nationality (ie. Canadians - Longbranch, Aussies - Lithgow, Brits - Maltby, etc)?
I adjusted the lips but still having some issues; the topmost round doesnt sit quite right. I do agree with one of the earlier comments that speed of cycling might be an issue. I'll wait to find out for sure with some snap caps.
My next question is (and Im sure its been covered here, but I'd appreciate a point in the right direction). I want to take off the motley remnants of varnish and whatever else they finished the wood with, and apply linseed oil.
How do I do this, from start to finish? Would really appreciate advice. Thanks to everyone so far for all your knowledge and help
Were Canadian soldiers issued weapons from random manufacture, or was it nationality by nationality (ie. Canadians - Longbranch, Aussies - Lithgow, Brits - Maltby, etc)?
I adjusted the lips but still having some issues; the topmost round doesnt sit quite right. I do agree with one of the earlier comments that speed of cycling might be an issue. I'll wait to find out for sure with some snap caps.
My next question is (and Im sure its been covered here, but I'd appreciate a point in the right direction). I want to take off the motley remnants of varnish and whatever else they finished the wood with, and apply linseed oil.
How do I do this, from start to finish? Would really appreciate advice. Thanks to everyone so far for all your knowledge and help
bluemike807
CGN Regular
- Location
- Eastern Ontario
Whats the best way to apply the oil? I've heard that the best applicator is a paintbrush? How many coats usually does the trick and how long do I let each coat soak/dry for?
Myself, I simply use shop towels - kind of "scott towels", but the blue kind, found in the car dept. at Canadian Tire. Cheese cloth also works, as would other things too I guess.
Apply a very thin coat. Let it sit for 24 hrs. Repeat.
If the wood has already been treated in a previous life, it may not need too many coats; sometimes used stocks I work on look decent after 4 or 5 coats. If it's newer wood though, you could be in for a long haul - I did use new stock on one of my Longbranch No4's, must have put 20 coats.
The nice way of looking at it was mentioned by others to me: "Put linseed oil once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year, then once a year for the rest of its life" - that sounds cool and likely is pretty close to a perfect system!
Lou
Apply a very thin coat. Let it sit for 24 hrs. Repeat.
If the wood has already been treated in a previous life, it may not need too many coats; sometimes used stocks I work on look decent after 4 or 5 coats. If it's newer wood though, you could be in for a long haul - I did use new stock on one of my Longbranch No4's, must have put 20 coats.
The nice way of looking at it was mentioned by others to me: "Put linseed oil once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year, then once a year for the rest of its life" - that sounds cool and likely is pretty close to a perfect system!
Lou
Restoration is a very good way to get to know your rifle. A good Enfield at our local shows is currently selling for $450.00 and up. Much less they're not in great conditon.
Your rifle is "British" proofed and most likely a post war assembly by a company like "Surrey", "Parker Hale", "Churchill", and so on...it should be Ok for headspace and accuracy. Take it to the range and shoot it. If you're happy with the performance then restore it.
Hard to tell if you've got a Savage or Long Branch. You're budget prices are a little on the low side...decide if you want beech, brich, walnut or maple furniture....beech being "British" and the most inexpensive. I'd estimate...and I've done a lot of restoration work...that you are looking at C$300.00 in parts.....you should be able to fit these yourself.
Good luck with your project.
Your rifle is "British" proofed and most likely a post war assembly by a company like "Surrey", "Parker Hale", "Churchill", and so on...it should be Ok for headspace and accuracy. Take it to the range and shoot it. If you're happy with the performance then restore it.
Hard to tell if you've got a Savage or Long Branch. You're budget prices are a little on the low side...decide if you want beech, brich, walnut or maple furniture....beech being "British" and the most inexpensive. I'd estimate...and I've done a lot of restoration work...that you are looking at C$300.00 in parts.....you should be able to fit these yourself.
Good luck with your project.
maple_leaf_eh
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
...
Something tells me - not Longbranch - but I could be wrong.
Thanks!
Looks like a ROF Maltby made in 1942. Stratton's book indicates they made 737,000 rifles between 1941 and 1945. Single letter (Q, M, T and Z) and five digit serial numbers ended in 1942, then they went to two letter (AC and AE) and five digit numbers.
So when you order parts and there is a choice, do not order Longbranch or Savage. The UK rifles will have a wide spread of subcontractors and variation, so there is very little way of returning this to 'all-matching' or 'as-issued'.
bluemike807
CGN Regular
- Location
- Eastern Ontario
Aye but as I pointed out earlier - thats just the wood; none of the other parts.
I was considering stripping down and oiling the stock - and still might, but its dinged all to hell. Im going to wait until I can get it out at the range and shoot it before I make any more decisions.
Can anyone recommend a good way to break it in? Im a bit of a new shooter, so I was going to wait until I had put at least 100-200 rounds of .22LR downrange to work on basic skills until I brought out the .303.
Any advice would be appreciated
bluemike807
CGN Regular
- Location
- Eastern Ontario
Im going to try to replace the magazine as well. I've tried adjusting it and its still giving me problems. I notice though that it can hold 10 rounds. I know thats the standard for these rifles, but if I decide to go hunting with it (I would only load 5 rounds) would I catch heck for it?
Also, very very off topic - how suitable would .303 be for coyote?
I asked at the store where I bought it and the conversation went:
Me: "Would a .303 be overkill for coyote?"
Guy: Stops and thinks a moment. "Well, would you be trying to just kill it?"
Me: "Well I wouldn't be taking it out to lunch..."
Guy: "Then yeah, that'll be fine."
I take this to mean that, yes, it will put a very large, fatal hole in a coyote - but will it be so much so that it will render the pelt worthless?
Also, very very off topic - how suitable would .303 be for coyote?
I asked at the store where I bought it and the conversation went:
Me: "Would a .303 be overkill for coyote?"
Guy: Stops and thinks a moment. "Well, would you be trying to just kill it?"
Me: "Well I wouldn't be taking it out to lunch..."
Guy: "Then yeah, that'll be fine."
I take this to mean that, yes, it will put a very large, fatal hole in a coyote - but will it be so much so that it will render the pelt worthless?
