Non-1911 pistols to suffer from slamming slides?

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barnacle

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I read this thread with interest:
http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php?t=86459
So, general consensus is that empty gun and slide release is bad for the actions of 1911's.

I must ask what are the consequences of using the mag release or slamming the slide home on an empty pistol that is not a 1911?( i.e., a Glock, Sig, SD40, etc.)
Can you let the slide fly on other pistols that have an empty mag/chamber?
Can you let the slide fly on other pistols that DO have loaded magazines?

Thanks in advance.
 
My personal belief is that it will be bad for the firearm to drop the slide on an empty chamber. I will only drop the slide if theres a mag present in the firearm with either live ammo (and I am at the range of course) or dummy rounds/snap caps present in the magazine to slow down the momentum of the slide.
 
It will state in my owners manual (1911) that after assembly you carry out the slide lock release followed by a dry fire...etc etc. In IPSC, IDPA, etc we have to let the slide go forward and dry fire all the time and after each stage.

Now I could see if you did this 100,000 times it might damage something...maybe. If the pistol in question cannot handle a few slide slams followed by a dry fire then it would seem me to be a prissy sissy gun if it breaks.

If it cannot handle what is stated in your operators' manual then I suggest getting another gun. The gun is designed to handle it straight from the manufacturer.

I let the slide slam and dry fire all the time on my Glocks, XD40, and my 1911, so far all is well and i do not have any concerns.
 
I don't like to do it to any of my guns, including my sig. I also hate when I let someone else see the gun, and they slam the slide home, this is most anyoing. To me its like slaming a car door home every time, just unessasary.
 
By design, a battle pistol will handle repeated dropping of slides and dry firings. They are usually also blessed with mushy slushy creepy triggers.

The 1911's with hair/very light match triggers can skip which can chip the sear/trigger interface rendering the pull irratic or rough.

If a pistol has that little sear/trigger engagment, normal firing will eventually cause the hammer to follow the slide on recoil. Most well stoned and hardened match sears leave just enough 'extra' so that doesn't happen.

There must be creep in ALL triggers. Just some are so little that we can't feel it.

Many modern battle pistols (like DA only) have way different trigger to sear to hammer engagments so the above doesn't readily apply.

Jerry
 
With a snap cap in the magazine (or a live cartridge if at the range and pointing in a safe direction) release the slide and listen to the result and feel what it does. Then do the same with nothing in the magazine or with the magazine removed. Listen to the result and feel what that does. For me, the second instance makes me cringe at the sound and feel of metal-on-metal parts slamming together that just don't do that when there's a cartridge being fed into the chamber. I like the comparison of slamming your car door hard every time you get out. Why would I do that to my car? Why would I treat my guns (for which I have equal feelings of affection) that way?
 
I'll probably regret doing this but here we go....
When you fire the gun the slide catches the round in the mag which slows down the slide and the round acts a little like a shock absorber. With out the round being stripped the slide moves faster and the impact at lock up is higher then when firing the gun. Metal slaming into metal on any type of machine is not good. Yes the guns can handle it, but it does put a higher load on all the stress points. The more often you put a high load on a stress point the sooner the stress point will wear or break. Same goes for your head, you get hit real hard without dying but if you keep taking jolts over and over again you'll end up with brain damage.
So,
Do what ever you want to your own guns, but please have the courtesy to not do it to other peoples guns with out their consent.
Dry firing,
As long as the firing pin does not contact metal you are OK, if you want to use snap caps go right a head. FYI,snapcaps don't save the firingpin stop on a 1911, round or no round the hammer still hits it with the same force. If the only thing stoping the firing pin from hitting steel is the case(rimfire guns), then you will need to use a snapcap.
 
EdGCNM said:
With a snap cap in the magazine (or a live cartridge if at the range and pointing in a safe direction) release the slide and listen to the result and feel what it does. Then do the same with nothing in the magazine or with the magazine removed. Listen to the result and feel what that does. For me, the second instance makes me cringe at the sound and feel of metal-on-metal parts slamming together that just don't do that when there's a cartridge being fed into the chamber. I like the comparison of slamming your car door hard every time you get out. Why would I do that to my car? Why would I treat my guns (for which I have equal feelings of affection) that way?
Click to expand...


Clearly you have never owned a british car, where a firm positive swing is required. :D
 
My first car love and my first car was a 1960 MGA, 15 years old when I got it. It never needed more than a push to close the door, although I admit I did have to do some fixing to the door latch to get the driver's side to stay closed at all -- no matter how hard or soft you closed it. It was somewhat embarrassing to turn a corner and have the door fly open on its own!
 
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