Norc 1911 .45ACP reloads won't fire

Max Relax

Max Relax

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I took the new norc 1911 to the range and it is tons of fun. It gave me groups that were only limited by my skill and it shot every round of factory ammo without a problem.

However... it would not let me pull the trigger on the rounds I had reloaded. They seemed to chamber fine from the magazine. I have tried searching for answers, but this is my first 1911 and I'm not sure what is going on.

Any ideas?
 
It sounds like the slide is not going all the wat forward & the disconnecter is doing it's job & preventing the gun from firing " out of battery "
If this is the case, you have to find out why the rounds are not going all the way into the chamber. Bad crimp or the head is not seated properly.
 
So the rounds fed, but didn't fire when the hammer dropped? - In other words, you wanted Bang, but got Click instead? - Is there a firing pin indent on the primers, and is that indent similar in depth to the factory empties? Or would the trigger just not pull with the slide in battery?, or is the slide out of battery and won't close on the round??
 
Max Relax said:
I took the new norc 1911 to the range and it is tons of fun. It gave me groups that were only limited by my skill and it shot every round of factory ammo without a problem.

However... it would not let me pull the trigger on the rounds I had reloaded. They seemed to chamber fine from the magazine. I have tried searching for answers, but this is my first 1911 and I'm not sure what is going on.

Any ideas?
Click to expand...

Did you grip the gun any differently? Was the grip safety depressed fully? Was the slide fully forward when the round was chambered? Did you try and go back to factory rounds again after trying your reloads...did the gun fire?
 
enefgee said:
So the rounds fed, but didn't fire when the hammer dropped? - In other words, you wanted Bang, but got Click instead? - Is there a firing pin indent on the primers, and is that indent similar in depth to the factory empties? Or would the trigger just not pull with the slide in battery?, or is the slide out of battery and won't close on the round??
Click to expand...

No click, the trigger would not pull.
The case width at the neck is .466"
 
Squibloads said:
Did you grip the gun any differently? Was the grip safety depressed fully? Was the slide fully forward when the round was chambered? Did you try and go back to factory rounds again after trying your reloads...did the gun fire?
Click to expand...

I went back to factory loads and no problems
 
Take the barrel out of your gun and try fitting a factory round in the chamber,then try to fit one of your re-loads... if it doesn't go all the way in you will need to seat the bullets deeper until they fit. What bullets are you loading, I cast my own hard lead 230 grn. round nose and use 4.7 grains of Unique this isn't as strong as factory loads but they are working pretty good.
 
Skinny 1950 said:
Take the barrel out of your gun and try fitting a factory round in the chamber,then try to fit one of your re-loads... if it doesn't go all the way in you will need to seat the bullets deeper until they fit. What bullets are you loading, I cast my own hard lead 230 grn. round nose and use 4.7 grains of Unique this isn't as strong as factory loads but they are working pretty good.
Click to expand...

I am using cam-pro 230 gr truncated cone, plated.
I will take out the barrel and check the fit. I'm fresh out of factory round to compare because I just shot them all :)
 
Skinny 1950 said:
Take the barrel out of your gun and try fitting a factory round in the chamber,then try to fit one of your re-loads... if it doesn't go all the way in you will need to seat the bullets deeper until they fit. What bullets are you loading, I cast my own hard lead 230 grn. round nose and use 4.7 grains of Unique this isn't as strong as factory loads but they are working pretty good.
Click to expand...

You are correct! I have them seated at 1.245" but they don't go all the way in. I think the truncated cone is the issue.

Thanks very much!
 
one of the things lee recommends right off is to set your seater with a factory round or a dummy round set the same way- that has yet to let me down- i usually don't put a whole lot of stock in richard lee, but on this one he's right
 
t-star said:
one of the things lee recommends right off is to set your seater with a factory round or a dummy round set the same way- that has yet to let me down- i usually don't put a whole lot of stock in richard lee, but on this one he's right
Click to expand...

I am going to do that from now on!
I was picturing myself pulling 50 rounds with an impact puller just because I was too eager to get to the range.
It might have taught me some patience :)
 
instead of doing that, why don't you set your seating die just a little deeper and see if that allows the slide to close properly- i mean why work when you don't have to?
you're not going to set anything off UNLESS YOU IMPACT THE PRIMER
 
t-star said:
instead of doing that, why don't you set your seating die just a little deeper and see if that allows the slide to close properly- i mean why work when you don't have to?
you're not going to set anything off UNLESS YOU IMPACT THE PRIMER
Click to expand...

I will seat them a little deeper and crimp them again.
Thanks again for the help
 
colinjw said:
It sounds like the slide is not going all the wat forward & the disconnecter is doing it's job & preventing the gun from firing " out of battery "
If this is the case, you have to find out why the rounds are not going all the way into the chamber. Bad crimp or the head is not seated properly.
Click to expand...

:agree:

Sounds like the slide is just out of battery and not locking up correctly.


Max Relax said:
I am using cam-pro 230 gr truncated cone, plated.
I will take out the barrel and check the fit. I'm fresh out of factory round to compare because I just shot them all :)
Click to expand...

Max Relax said:
You are correct! I have them seated at 1.245" but they don't go all the way in. I think the truncated cone is the issue.

Thanks very much!
Click to expand...

If you remove the barrel and insert a round in the chamber, it should drop in freely and be flush with the end of the tab on the barrel or slightly deeper.


Max Relax said:
I will seat them a little deeper and crimp them again.
Thanks again for the help
Click to expand...

You shouldn't be crimping .45 Auto, it headspaces on the case mouth. If you are flaring the cases, all you need to do is flatten the flare back out and leave the case sides flat and square. If you are not flaring, then nothing more is required.

There is nothing wrong with simply seating the bullets a bit deeper to get to your desired shorter OAL, with nothing else required.


Mark
 
Cool; thanks for all of the info -- it is amazing to have all of this expertise available for consult. CGNers rule!
 
Um.... I'd question that idea of not crimping the bullet. Bad things can happen if the bullet isn't being properly held in the case. By the time you get to the end of the mag the last few rounds have been slamming back and forth in the mag quite a bit. If they end up pushing the bullet deeper then there won't be the proper case volume.

If you feel like the last few rounds are somewhat stronger for recoil then this is very likely happening. You should not be able to push the bullet in deeper than the die seats it with fairly serious finger pressure. If you can then you need to crimp it a little tighter. The amount needed to hold the bullet that firmly may not be a lot of crimp but you want some.
 
well, i've been not crimping for years and never had a problem- most of my slugs( including the jacketed stuff) don't have a cannelure to crimp into anyway- and i've never had a problem with the round "contracting" - the ONLY round i ever had contract on me was a 338 win mag with a 250 grain round nose- those NEEDED a crimp
 
Chamber check all the way. I used to think it was too much of a pain in the ass, but now I do every round. Also, whenever I work up a load where I change cartrige dimensions I will load u a few without powder or primer and cycle through the firearm i wish to shoot it out of to see how things go before I load a bunch.

45ACP headspaces on the casemouth. you need a taper crimp. I think all t-star was saying was not to roll crimp ammunition that headspaces on the case mouth.
 
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