Norc AR - What to start with?

Not going to tell you to build up or not.

But I've built up my 10.5 Norc to what I would expect from an American made AR. Went with MAGPUL Furniture (MOE Pistol Grip, ACS-L Stock [commercial], Agled Forward Grip Gen 1 and, BUS Gen 2), Daniel Defence Omega Rail 7.0 Carbine Rail, and an EOTECH 552. I run PMAG's and have had no issues with the performance or response of the rifle. Last week I replaced the milspec flash suppressor for an ALLEN GUN WORKS Linear Muzzle Brake. I've fead over 300 rounds through it since I picked it up (two weeks ago) and haven't cleaned it yet, and it hasn't jammed or had a double feed from carbon build up. It took 10 rounds to sight it in then I just co-witnessed my EOTECH to the iron sights, again no issues. It's accurate and I'm getting better groupings out to 50 meters then the guys running expensive Daniel Defence, Knights Arms or even Colt's on the same range.

All the tacticool I've placed on my Norc will fit on any other AR Varient or Clone out there including the original AR's and Colt M4. So if I ever decide to spend large amounts of money on an American made clone I can change the parts over. Or I can polish the trigger (which is really good as is) and switch out the gas tube and bolt carrier group (over sized gas tube and gas key on the carrier) and be able to shoot as I build up the system.

Cause lets be honest an AR is an AR until you start playing with the trigger parts and bolt carrier and barrel types and there is only so much you can do before you reach the limits of the design. So if you're not sure if you want to use an AR platform play with it some and then decide.

If you want to see what it could look like check out Black Iron Tactical he's has a breakdown of all the things we've put on or done with our Norcs.
 
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Thanks for your very detailed post, CARNAGE1. Got some great ideas and I figured I could either keep the accessories if I decided to stick with the AR platform or just sell'em separately after bringing the Norc back to stock.
 
The carry handle on these seems to be detachable.. Is there a mount that will replace it if I take it off? I have some sights I'd like to try out on this platform :) Googling didn't help.
 
Most sights will have the required mounting hardware. From the pics below, you can see the Magpul MBUS, the regular carry handle irons, and EoTech and an ACOG.
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Thanks.. What it looks like to me, there already is a rail present, so I can mount any standard sights or rings without investing in additional hardware. By the way, when those MBU's flip up, they comfortably go over the red dot or do you need to remove the red dot in order to use them?
 
depends which one, and what height the red dot is mounted. I am not currently using a red dot. I have the ACOG on one upper and a Vortex PST 1-4 in an ADM mount on another. There are other dudes that caught "Costa fever" and run nothing but aimpoint micro's and $hit like that. But who can blame anybody after seeing the Daniel Defence and Larry Vickers torture test video.

- Most BUIS (back up iron sights) won't clear your red dot/holo sight. The common thing to do is "Co-witness" them. Here is a quick run down found on the youtube:
 
Ok, so I'll mount them up and see what I got. The scope sits pretty low so I might be able to just clear it.. Will test the setup on my test rail and work from there. Thanks for all the useful tips. By the way, I've used a variation on my cowitnessing just to get my red dot on paper on the SKS.. Put the rifle on a cleaning stand, took off the cheek piece, and just brought the red dot to the point that I was aiming at with the irons (already zeroed). Fine-tuning at the range was stupid easy after that. On the SKS, with most scope mounts you can use both sights at the same time because the mounts go about 3/8-1/2" above the dust cover. Thanks for the detailed explanations :)
 
xenasdad said:
Buy some chamber brushes, bore brushes and maybe a carrier scraper. Then buy as much ammo as you can and then shoot it as much as you can afford to.
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I agree with all of that except buying a carbon scraping tool. Waste of money. Just get an empty brass casing and crimp the neck closed with a pair of pliers. Voila! Instant carbon scraping tool. If you lose it or it breaks there are a lot more to be found. Definately use brass since it softer than the bolt and carrier and won't mark them up.
 
In terms of making the rifle perform noticeably better, i suggest a float tube, so the barrel is not touching the forend. And a better trigger.

My Norc has a $39 tube I bought at Brownells and a Rock River trigger that cost about $110 in the USA.

The trigger makes it so much easy to shoot well. I don't have a 'before" and "after" with the same ammo, but the Norc shot this group last week, with a 4X scope. This is the first time I have had a real good group out of it. I guess the rifle is good enough to to tell the difference between mediocre ammo and match grade ammo.

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Thanks for posting, gents. Homer: I should be able to get some throwaway brass at the range this week, so I don't have to use up any of the stuff that Henry's sending me ;) Ganderite: TIGHT group! The days of reasonably priced tubes and triggers are temporarily suspended until the feeding frenzy dies down, but I'll keep an eye out and I'll do some gentle trigger work myself to start with.
 
Don't use good brass to make a carbon scraping tool. :)

I almost forgot. I saved a post by Longshot on his 25 cent trigger job which I used on my Armalite with great success. Here it is

Don't waste your time and money on a new one. Give yourself a .25 cent trigger job!

How do you do it you say?

Stage #1
Take off your upper. Find a piece of para cord or other similar rope/twine. Put said para cord under the hammer. #### the hammer. Pull straight up on para cord as hard as you can while squeezing the trigger slowly. Trigger will be extremely hard to pull. If it is you know you're doing it right. Eventually trigger will break and the hammer will go forward. DON’T let the hammer slam into the frame. Enough of this will dent the aluminum and make it so your bolt catch does not function. Repeat as much as necessary. Put back on the upper and try it holding the rifle as per normal.

Stage #2
Enjoy your new smooth trigger.

Note:
This method does NOT change the trigger weight. What it does do is smooths out the pull so you don't notice the weight.
There are other options including honing the sear, but I have never really had to after using this method.
Doing this has smoothed out the triggers on all the rifles I have shot in competition including 2 second place CFSAC finishes, a third place at NSCC and a good showing at Bisley. You DON'T need a fancy light trigger on these guns to make them shoot. Save your money for practice ammo!
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homer76 said:
Don't use good brass to make a carbon scraping tool. :)
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If I don't reload the caliber, it ain't "good brass" in my books ;) Thanks for reposting the trigger job instructions. I'll probably still just go with springs, very lite polish and a set screw to take up the creep. No sear modifications on this gun lol
 
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