Norc butt plate / Boyd's stock fit Q

The Baron

The Baron

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So, I walked into SFRC yesterday and sitting on the counter was a beautiful Boyd's M14 stock - apparently, just in minutes earlier on a trade. So of course I left with it and a smile!:D

It's on my Norc now. The Boyd's stock came with no rear butt plate or stock liner so I transferred those over from my Norc synthetic stock. But, the profile of the Boyd's stock is about 1/16" larger than the Norinco butt plate so the fit is not quite right. Does anyone know if a USGI butt plate assembly is larger than the Norc? There's no way in heck I'm sanding down the entire profile of the Boyd's butt stock because the fit is "OK" as is, but I'd be happy to buy a new butt assembly if that made the fit perfect. Y'all got any experience with these things?
 
The Baron said:
So, I walked into SFRC yesterday and sitting on the counter was a beautiful Boyd's M14 stock - apparently, just in minutes earlier on a trade. So of course I left with it and a smile!:D

It's on my Norc now. The Boyd's stock came with no rear butt plate or stock liner so I transferred those over from my Norc synthetic stock. But, the profile of the Boyd's stock is about 1/16" larger than the Norinco butt plate so the fit is not quite right. Does anyone know if a USGI butt plate assembly is larger than the Norc? There's no way in heck I'm sanding down the entire profile of the Boyd's butt stock because the fit is "OK" as is, but I'd be happy to buy a new butt assembly if that made the fit perfect. Y'all got any experience with these things?
Click to expand...

I put a Boyd's stock on my M1A and SA butt plate fit the same as you described on yours. Must be the stock. Still looks great though.
 
My Boyd's was unfinished when I bought it. During sanding I put a small radius in the edge you speak of and the difference looks intentional now. Great looking stock after 4 coats of tung oil.
 
I had to shave the portion of the stock for the butt plate to fit just a bit -- not even the whole perimeter, but just a portion of it. It was also a bit thick, so the butt plate did not nest against the stock when in place, so I sanded that down a bit. I also found that I had to remove just a bit of material from where the "wings" of the trigger group fit, as well as a bit of material from the part of the stock where the very back of the trigger group fits in. Once I did that it all fit together nicely.

Ditto on shooterman's comments re: tung oil. I applied a liberal amount with a lint-free rag, let it sit for about 20 mins., then wiped it off and let it dry for 24 hours. I did this 4 times and really liked the result. My understanding is that as you apply more coats you will get a more and more glossy result, so how many coats just depends on the finish you are looking for.

Also, makd sure to do the hammer follow test when you change stocks. When I first installed my action into the Boyd's stock, the fit was too snug, and it failed this test, which can result in a slam fire condition.

Good luck!

Cheers,

Grey
 
grey said:
.. I also found that I had to remove just a bit of material from where the "wings" of the trigger group fit, as well as a bit of material from the part of the stock where the very back of the trigger group fits in. Once I did that it all fit together nicely.

... Also, makd sure to do the hammer follow test when you change stocks. When I first installed my action into the Boyd's stock, the fit was too snug, and it failed this test, which can result in a slam fire condition.

Good luck!

Cheers,

Grey
Click to expand...

Yes, I had to remove a bit of wood along the top side of the stock/rails where the action sits in order to get a proper fit. BUT, I had not removed any wood from where the trigger group sits, and getting my trigger group seated/closed was a very snug fit. I had also not thought to do the hammer test - thanks to your tip I just did it and my rifle in the Boyd's stock FAILED. I went to the sticky about the hammer test and followed the simple instructions to correct it. I removed a tiny bit of wood from the rear of where the trigger group sits - only took a few minutes and even I could do it. I've now repeated the hammer test about 20 times and the rifle now passes.

Grey - thank you, thank you, thank you! Your tips may have saved me one terrible trip to the range!
 
grey said:
I had to shave the portion of the stock for the butt plate to fit just a bit -- not even the whole perimeter, but just a portion of it. It was also a bit thick, so the butt plate did not nest against the stock when in place, so I sanded that down a bit. I also found that I had to remove just a bit of material from where the "wings" of the trigger group fit, as well as a bit of material from the part of the stock where the very back of the trigger group fits in. Once I did that it all fit together nicely.

Ditto on shooterman's comments re: tung oil. I applied a liberal amount with a lint-free rag, let it sit for about 20 mins., then wiped it off and let it dry for 24 hours. I did this 4 times and really liked the result. My understanding is that as you apply more coats you will get a more and more glossy result, so how many coats just depends on the finish you are looking for.

Also, makd sure to do the hammer follow test when you change stocks. When I first installed my action into the Boyd's stock, the fit was too snug, and it failed this test, which can result in a slam fire condition.

Good luck!

Cheers,

Grey
Click to expand...

Pure tung oil can be a little thick so I warmed up the stock near fireplace and heated up tung oil a bit and applied. I wiped down and repeated after a week. Well worth it.
 
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