Norc shoots high?

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Martin248

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So there are now 60 rounds down my new m305 and it's lots of fun. Although not perfect conditions to measure (i.e. outdoors without a bench) it seems to be shooting high even though I have adjusted the rear sight as low as it will go. Guessing maybe zeroed at 200 yards or further where I'd prefer 100.

Hopefully I will get to a range with a bench and verify that properly but assuming it's true what can i do? The rear is as low as i can make it, how to raise the front or what may be the problem?
 
Take the rear sight apart and file the bottom of it a little bit .
Pics and info can be found at
2. FITTING THE NM REAR SIGHT APERTURE
http://www.fulton-armory.com/\faqs\M14-FAQs\NMRearSight.htm

Copied this from Hungry

How to install your rear sights (after you took them off)

Some of you might have upgraded your rear iron sights with some USGI M1 Garand or USGI M14 replacements. Here's how to do it, just OFF the top of my head. I do this so frequently, it's like shaving my face!

GREASE the threads of the elevation pinion screw RFN (right now) and then grease the threads of the windage knob as well. This helps prevent cross threading especially if you are using NM threaded/pitch knobs/rear sight base.

Just for your reference, you experienced Garand sight users: The USGI M1 Garand thread pitch is 16 tpi (threads per inch). The NM spec to obtain 1/2 MOA per klik is 32 tpi and hence is easier/prone to cross threading. Been there, done that! Had to help another CGNutter recover from this error. years ago!

I start with the elevation knob pushed in (left or portside) as far as it can go.
Then I center the elevation pinion screw in the center of the windage knob 'window' and attempt to 'screw' windage knob into place.
Keep up the pressure (windage knob from the right or starboard side) and screw the windage knob in place until it's flush. This requires a 'feel' that cannot be described on the internet.

Sometimes I will wiggle the rear sight base left and right until the windage knobs settles as tight as it can go into the rear sight base.

Once you are flush and even and all the knobs have no further to screw in, you will know that the knobs are 'home' position because the windage knob now 'clicks' and the rear base moves left and/or right per click.

I now take a flat blade screwdriver and tighten the windage knob pinion screw 1 or TWO half clicks to obtain the tension needed to move the rear base left and / or right without having to push on the elevation pinion screw head from the left to the right with my left thumb. Go and do that right now with your M14 or M1 Garand sights. As you move the windage left or right, now PUSH on the slotted pinion screw(elevation knob) towards the windage knob. Notice the windage knob is EASIER to klik (left or right) ?

I'm hoping this will work for you. Works for me all the time!

mates!

Barney
 
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Martin248 said:
So there are now 60 rounds down my new m305 and it's lots of fun. Although not perfect conditions to measure (i.e. outdoors without a bench) it seems to be shooting high even though I have adjusted the rear sight as low as it will go. Guessing maybe zeroed at 200 yards or further where I'd prefer 100.

Hopefully I will get to a range with a bench and verify that properly but assuming it's true what can i do? The rear is as low as i can make it, how to raise the front or what may be the problem?
Click to expand...

Is your M305 the short version? I could not zero my shorty at 100yards - tried the previously mentioned rear sight mod to allow it to sink lower but it still was shooting too high.
I had to solder a .090" extension on the front sight blade to finally zero it.

I was attending a recent M14 Doctor clinic where it was found that there was no clearance between the front barrel band and the stock ferrule and it was actually binding - a common issue with the plastic stocked rifles. There should be at least a .015" - .020" gap. I carefully removed the ferrule and filed the nose of the stock back along with the shoulder that the ferrule butts against.
Once I determined the clearance was correct, I glued the now loosely fitting ferrule in place with JB weld. I temporarily inserted a couple of feeler gauges between the ferrule and the barrel band to insure the ferrule was correctly positioned while the glue set.
This removed the vertical preload on the barrel and dropped the grouping at 100 yards by about 6". Had I done this in the beginning, there may have been no need to modify both front and rear sights.
There is no longer any vertical stringing of shots as the barrel heats up either, so it was worth tweaking the ferrule/barrel band clearance for this reason alone.
 
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