Norc Stock Refinishing- Question

C

canadiangunuser

Regular
Rating - 100%
15   0   0
So I have stripped, sanded and begun to finish my Norc m14 stock. I will post on the entire process later (mostly as a "what not to do" as I made mistakes). I have just stained/finished with ONE coat of 3parts dark walnut stain to 1part boiled linseed oil. It came out a little darker than I expected but it looks decent. But the finish is basically flat. Here's the question- I wanted a little bit of gloss but NOT shellac- so should I-

1. Put on a coat of straight linseed oil to bring it up?
2. Use the "Varathane brand diamond coat semi-gloss" sealant that I already have?
3. Use 2 or 3 more coats of what I started and it will build up on it's own?
4. It won't have any gloss without shellac?

Thanks for your help.
 
I was going to go down this road but when I talked to the representative for Varathane at General Paint he stated that Varathane is not intended for extreme variations in temperature. So I went for the traditional meathead that will actually work alot better and also prevent swelling or shrinking due to temperature variations and also humidity level's.
  1. Used Mohawk Wax Wash to remove old wax vanish from the wood. This process took a couple of day's with 3 soakings a day and a sand with 400 & 600 grit sand paper.
  2. After allowing a day to dry I purchased Tung Oil. I applied 3 coats a day for 3 days. I also gave a light sand with 0000 steel wool in between coats.
  3. Again allowed a day to dry. I applied a multiple coats of Waxalyne to achieve the gloss I wanted.
Doing this meathead will not only enable your stock maximum resilient to the elements but also allow you to bush blast with out worrying about chipping flaking or cracking that happens to Varathane in extreme temperature variations. I hope this help's you out. Plus as a side note I am a painter by trade and do work in my family business for many years.
 
Exactly what Satain said. Here's a couple of pics of an 8 coat Minwax Tung Oil finish looks like on a 'Norc stock.

M305After1.jpg


M305After.jpg


One of the reasons I prefer tung oil or even True Oil (Birchwood Casey), is that you can bring out the sheen or dull it. It all depends on how much rubbing you do with 00000 steel wool or extremely fine grit abrasive.

In the above pics I used tung oil and after drying rubbed it down with ceramic dust from rocket nose cones. (used a moistened Dr. Scholl's felt boot insert). It took 8 coats and many hours to bring the sheen out.

The main thing to keep in mind with the chu wood is that it is extremely opened grained. It has to be sealed before the oiling process begins.

What I normally do on any wood stock if I am staining is to make a mixture of diluted stain and walnut dust. This fills the grain and stains at the same time. You can get some amazing results. Let your first app dry for at least 2 days then re-apply if needed.

Have fun and let us see how it turned out.

PS. Sorry for the oversize pic. I'm on dial up too so don't castrate me.
 
Looks good. So taking your advice as well as others I have just applied a second coat of stain with sawdust in a kind of slurry. I left it to dry for 20 minutes and then wiped the excess off. Now I am going to wait 48 hours and begin with tung oil. The grain does not seem completely filled but I think it should look good with some decent tung oil conditioning. I will add more as it goes, and a complete post when it's finished. Thanks- oh and if anyone else wants to throw in suggestions, please go ahead.
 
Okay, so I ran into another problem. I put my second coat of stain on, mixed with sawdust to fill in the wood grain and left it to dry for about an hour. When I picked it up to ensure there was no bleeding from over saturation-THERE WERE SCRATCHES ACROSS THE GRAIN. I had applied across the grain and then wiped off with the grain, and the scratches were across. So I removed them through 600grit, then 400grit, and finally a light touch with 220grit paper (the only thing that worked). Then I reapplied the stain and now it's drying. So my guess is that something in my slurry was sharp- although I don't think it was the rag or paper as I used several pieces. More to come.
 
Use Birchwood Walnut stain (water based) or Old Master American Walnut stain (water based) as for a staining solution. Don't mix with any particles in the staining process. Once stained to the level of color that you like then apply the tung oil. Once you have done that then the waxalyne will fill in the cracks for a complete smooth finish. The way you are doing the staining can cause imperfections to show once tung oil is applied. Once the tung oil is cured, you will notice the imperfections and then it will be to late to fix with out extensive sanding which will cause blotchy patches in your finish. If there is big cracks or any other imperfections. Please post pics and I will try to describe the best method in resolving your problems.
 
Thanks for the info. I can't post pictures until tomorrow, although I think I have all the scratches out now and it's just stain on a fairly smooth surface. My question- I'm not sure what waxalyne is- I googled it and didn't get anything, is this some type of beeswax or other wax finish?
 
Call Reliable Gun and talk to Shane for it. It is a wax substance that you wip on and seals pours. There is also a great german product that also does the same thing but is toxic so make sure that you were gloves and are in a well vented room. Ask Garry from Lock, Stock & Barrel (604-517-4570)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom