Norinco 1911, refinished and reworked.

Kevin M.

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A few weeks ago, while I was taking my black badge course, my cheapo Norinco 1911 that I was using began malfunctioning. When the grip safety was applied, the safety would flip on. Thre trigger pull was also so heavy (12 lbs), and with so much creep and overtravel, that I was having problems with accuracy.

Here is a good example of what the finish looked like. (Not my gun) You can see that the finish is wearing in places and looks kind of crappy to begin with.

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This was pretty unnerving for me, as a first time IPSC guy, so I decided to shelf the gun for the day and borrow sombodys spare 1911. I finished the course with no problem, but when I went home, I decided to do a complete refinishing of the gun and the internals. I figure there is no better way to learn how to learn about your gun then to jump into it and learn about how all the components work and fit together.

Let me state that before I did this, I was by no means a professional gunsmith, but I sure did learn alot through this whole process.

I detail stipped the gun, and save the springs, placed all the components in a bath of white vinegar to strip the finish off. Within 5 minutes, the finish turned a bright orange, and I was able to wipe the finish off with paper towel. Next I put the parts in a water bath to wash off the excess vinegar, and was left with a rough steel finish.

I spent a few hours wet-sanding the parts down with 400 grit sandpaper, and I was left with a nice, clean looking 1911.

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After finishing this, I set about polishing all the moving components of the gun in the same manner to get everything as smooth as possible. I snipped two coils off the hammer spring to allow for a slightly lighter cocking effort while not needing to worry about light primer stikes.

Finally, I set about doing a trigger job. I roughened the rear of the trigger arm with 100 grit sandpaper, and put on a spot of industrial strength metal epoxy about an Eighth of an inch thick. I allowed it to dry for two days, and using 600 grit sandpaper, I slowly shaped it to take just about all of the creep and overtravel out of the trigger pull, while still allowing the sear to catch after every cycle of the slide.

Once this was done, I played around with the leaf springs to attain a 3.5 lb trigger pull, using a trigger pull scale to measure it. (Previous pull was 12 lb)


Finally, I decided to paint the gun. I applied a grey primer on all of the visible surfaces (including what shows when the slide is back). I left the barrel, rear sight, and trigger stainless in the hopes of providing an interesting set of colours.

I got an OD green spraypaint for the frame, grip safety, trigger housing, safety, hammer, mag release, and slide release. I used a matte black for the slide, extractor, firing pin cover, bushing, and the button cover for the slide spring. I know that with it being spraypaint, it will probably wear off pretty fast, but as it was my first time, I wanted to learn the basics of what to do and what not to do before using somthing like guncoat or duracoat.

I took it to the range last weekend, and started with mags loaded with two rounds. (In case I did a bad trigger job) Everything went perfectly, and there were no problems. Once I gained confidence in the trigger job, I began using to full mags, and still no problems. The trigger was holding up perfectly, and I noticed a big increase in my accuracy, holding a 4-6 inch group at 15 meters.

Needless to say I was and am still very pleased that this was a successful project.

Here is the finished product of all my hard work.


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Let me know what you think I can do to improve it or my methods.
 
Nice, are you going to etch in the 1911 on the slide.

Maybe the picture quality, but where is the serial number? Or did you black it out for the Pictures?

Yes, I am planning on doing that via an electrochemichal etching kit that I just happen to own, providing I find the time.

As for the serial number, it was actually filled in by the painting process at the time these pictures were taken(Before it left the house to go to the range). They were still visible, just barely, although you can not see it in these pictures. I have since etched them carefully back out with a small knife, in order to leave the paint intact but have the original serial number etching visible. I did not know of a way to not have them fill in as I was painting, so I continued on and fixed it after it dried sufficiently.

I still hope to find a better process for the next time I do this though.
 
I couldn't help noticing the title of the newspaper you used for your project: "Thornhill Liberal"....now the truth about you has been revealed.:D

Either way, great job man, you Thornhill liberal!:kickInTheNuts:
 
I couldn't help noticing the title of the newspaper you used for your project: "Thornhill Liberal"....now the truth about you has been revealed.:D

Either way, great job man, you Thornhill liberal!:kickInTheNuts:

No he ain't no liberal, everyone in the area gets it for free, we mostly use it for fire starter and other such projects where we can drop gunk on it.

Nice gun Kevin. Ill have to take a closer look later.
 
The paint doesn't look too good but you said yourself you used a spray instead of a proper gun finish so Im sure you weren't expecting much anyway.

Good job though, I wanted to get a Norinco myself to do this very same thing with.
 
I did not know of a way to not have them fill in as I was painting, so I continued on and fixed it after it dried sufficiently.

I still hope to find a better process for the next time I do this though.

While painting engine blocks I usually coat any gasket surface with white grease, paint, allow to dry, and wipe the paint/grease away to an untouched finish. You could try that if you ever do round two.
 
I couldn't help noticing the title of the newspaper you used for your project: "Thornhill Liberal"....now the truth about you has been revealed.:D

Either way, great job man, you Thornhill liberal!:kickInTheNuts:

Hey, there is a reason that that paper is used for spraypainting on and not reading. Besides, as Gunslingr said, it is free around my area, so why not use it for somthing useful for a change?

While painting engine blocks I usually coat any gasket surface with white grease, paint, allow to dry, and wipe the paint/grease away to an untouched finish. You could try that if you ever do round two.

I will keep that in mind, thanks.




I do not have terribly high hopes for the durability of this finish, but I do not have a problem with that. It was a good learning project, and now I know what to do when I try it with a proper firearms paint.
 
Hey, there is a reason that that paper is used for spraypainting on and not reading. Besides, as Gunslingr said, it is free around my area, so why not use it for somthing useful for a change?

Hey, I was just kidding. I would do the same thing, use it for some dirty job and then crumple it and chug it in garbage. A liberal would certainly fold it nicely and tack it away in a recycle box. Well....I would also recycle it but not fold it that nicely....
 
Not bad for a rattlecan job. Your gun doesn't have the idiot scratch, like the one in the first picture, either!

I actually did my Norinco 1911 in Dupli-Color high heat black and cured it in the oven. I like to think of it as the black primer hot rod of my gun collection.
 
A lot nicer rig than stock for sure. Nice job Mcguiver. That paint may hold up better than you think...If not, no money lost & easy to strip clean.
 
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