Norinco CQA gasblock question.

shawnboy

shawnboy

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nooB question, I am sure.

I am looking to replace the A-2 sight with a low profile gasblock to accommodate a 12" handguard and was wondering the diameter to order. .750 seems to be the answer or should I just get off my lazy ass and mic it?

Any suggestions to a suitable replacement? I don't want to do a butcher job and just cut it down.
 
.750 is the right size for the cqa, but getting the old one off is the problem. I have herd of better results just grinding off the front sight to turn it into a low profile gas block. Lots of helpful youtube videos.
 
Thanks for the suggestions and conformation of gasblock size. I was contemplating the grind. My concern was that I wanted to put it back to stock for resale I would be euchred.
 
Will the delta ring and barrel nut clear the cut down a2?

Or would I cut off the delta ring as well and reuse the barrel nut?

Edit: That was a stupid question about the barrel nut, eh?
 
shawnboy said:
Will the delta ring and barrel nut clear the cut down a2?

Or would I cut off the delta ring as well and reuse the barrel nut?

Edit: That was a stupid question about the barrel nut, eh?
Click to expand...

not a dumb question. i saw a vid install where it reuses the existing barrel nut so he cut off the delta ring and weld springs. leave barrel nut as is.
 
Does the rail you are putting on require a proprietary barrel nut or can the old one be used? This will likely determine what you do as the barrel nut will not clear the gas block.
 
*MALICE* said:
Those nork gas block are easy to get off, you just gotta use the correct tools/setup.

I can be PM'ed for details
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Thanks, I really appreciate that.

Being a Jack Of All Trades and a Master of one, I have all the tools to get the job done with the exception of the proper bench block.

No doubt I will be taking you up on your offer.



ryukin81 said:
not a dumb question. i saw a vid install where it reuses the existing barrel nut so he cut off the delta ring and weld springs. leave barrel nut as is.
Click to expand...

So it would be safe for me to assume that the barrel nut is mil spec and should be compatible with a mil spec free floating forend?

Edit: FoxAlpha, didn't see your reply. This is my question as well.


In the end, I think I will just attempt to do it right and replace everything as required. Doesn't have to be top of the line price crazy. I just picked up an ATI forend for a good price so I just need a gas block and I will give it a go.
 
.750 and mine came off, just dont be light on the hammer and make sure your using a hardened punch. The pins only go one way ( which I dont recall, but google will ). Dont cut it
 
Good luck getting it off!!!! I've seen more than a few that need to be cut off!!!! if this is the case, just be very gentle while doing so and you'll get it off without damage.
 
For a fair price, I managed to source a VLTOR low profile gas block from another CGNer. Grabbed a reasonably priced 12", free floating forend as well. If the parts get here this week, I will try and grab a bench block and give this a go on the weekend and report back.

Anybody have an AR15 reaction rod kicking around I could borrow? lol
 
shawnboy said:
For a fair price, I managed to source a VLTOR low profile gas block from another CGNer. Grabbed a reasonably priced 12", free floating forend as well. If the parts get here this week, I will try and grab a bench block and give this a go on the weekend and report back.

Anybody have an AR15 reaction rod kicking around I could borrow? lol
Click to expand...

Where are you located? I've got one I loan out from time to time to local guys.
 
shawnboy said:
For a fair price, I managed to source a VLTOR low profile gas block from another CGNer. Grabbed a reasonably priced 12", free floating forend as well. If the parts get here this week, I will try and grab a bench block and give this a go on the weekend and report back.

Anybody have an AR15 reaction rod kicking around I could borrow? lol
Click to expand...

You don't need a bench block for the gasblock. I just use the top of a vise to support the block on either side of the pins.

Dont use brass or ejector-pin punches. Solid taper punches only. 3/8" to break the pins free and a 1/8" punch to knock them through.
It helps if you have a second set of hands to support the upper while you operate the hammer and punch
 
*MALICE* said:
You don't need a bench block for the gasblock. I just use the top of a vise to support the block on either side of the pins.

Dont use brass or ejector-pin punches. Solid taper punches only. 3/8" to break the pins free and a 1/8" punch to knock them through.
It helps if you have a second set of hands to support the upper while you operate the hammer and punch
Click to expand...

You're right, but he's talking about installing a free float rail, and if it requires replacing a barrel nut then he will need a vice block.
 
FoxAlpha said:
You're right, but he's talking about installing a free float rail, and if it requires replacing a barrel nut then he will need a vice block.
Click to expand...

He said 'bench block'. I assumed (possibly incorrectly) that he was referring to the orange hockey-puck sized deals that people rest gas block on. :)

In so far as replacing the barrel nut, I, too, prefer to use vice blocks/jaws to clamp the barrel. I'm not 100% in love with using a reaction rod or BEV block for risk of loosening the barrel extension. While, hypothetically, the barrel extension should be torqued to 150 ft/lbs and removing the barrel nut should not cause the barrel extension to loosen, I have come across several manufacturers who seem not to install their extension properly :(
 
FoxAlpha said:
Where are you located? I've got one I loan out from time to time to local guys.
Click to expand...


Thanks for the generous offer but I am a few thousand k east of you. lol


FoxAlpha said:
You're right, but he's talking about installing a free float rail, and if it requires replacing a barrel nut then he will need a vice block.
Click to expand...

This potential transplant is inspired by The University of YouTube. From what I deduced , the reaction rod is the way to go. I will watch a few more installs to further educate myself.

*MALICE* said:
He said 'bench block'. I assumed (possibly incorrectly) that he was referring to the orange hockey-puck sized deals that people rest gas block on. :)

In so far as replacing the barrel nut, I, too, prefer to use vice blocks/jaws to clamp the barrel. I'm not 100% in love with using a reaction rod or BEV block for risk of loosening the barrel extension. While, hypothetically, the barrel extension should be torqued to 150 ft/lbs and removing the barrel nut should not cause the barrel extension to loosen, I have come across several manufacturers who seem not to install their extension properly :(
Click to expand...

Yep, hockey puck, great Canadian analogical description there MALICE.

The barrel nut for the ATI forend is proprietary.

The nice part of all this is that I am in no hurry to get it done. If I get into it and find I need to go a different route, so be it.
 
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