Norinco JW 25

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novajager

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Finally found and bought a Norinco JW25. Love it. Areally fun gun to shoot, and cheap. So now I want to spend money on it beause that's what we do, right? The iron sights on it really suck. Anyone know what, if anything I can get to replace them? The front sight is particularly bad. A great big triangle of a thing that completely blocks out the entire target even at 50 yards. But still fun to shoot.
Any ideas appreciated.
 
I have one of these rifles, and the sights are better than any other Norinco rimfire that I've ever used. (I know...not saying much :) ) The rifles are are pop-can accurate @ 50 yards, and too cool looking as is to put a scope on. Come to think of it, it's the only rimfire I own WITHOUT a scope. Maybe I SHOULD scope it...?

Anyhow, they hold a little more value than they probably should because they're not very common...so making permanent alterations to the gun won't probably help it's long-term value. Assuming that matters.
 
I used a Lyman Gold Bead front sight to replace the original front sight on mine because it was loose and sat crooked in the dovetail. The Lyman sights come in different heights and the .445 was a better match for the rear tangent's indexing than the original front sight. The dovetail on the Lyman is way too wide so it had to be filed back.

The rear sight slot was almost non-existent so it got widened out with a precision flat file enough to give the gold bead a little room on either side. I didn't file it out until I got the gun to the range because I wanted to see what the windage was like first. It shot quite a bit to the right, so instead of knocking the front sight to the right, I filed the rear sight slot to the left until the gun was hitting right down the middle - which was just wide enough to accomodate the entire bead. The slot got tweaked open a little more on either side while shooting at 100yds.

The sight picture is real clear now making for a more consistant aim.

This is the second JW-25A I've owned and I've had to do refinishing and make similar replacements on both of them. The original handguard on this latest one was cracked right out of the box so I made a much beefier one from clear birch. Birch is a good match for the stock's natural wood and the oil finish looks much better than the original finish.


The crack actually spreads right up to the transition:
of1w8z.jpg



Refinished in its natural color:
723asy.jpg





Comparison:
wrkieb.jpg





A triangle/60 degree file with one side dulled with sandpaper. The dulled side doesn't cut anymore so can't alter the depth/height of the dovetail:
30uxqwm.jpg






Shows how much of the dovetail was filed off:
4q63pd.jpg
 
I had sight issues too.

The front one was too thick, and too tall. both taken care of by dremel and file.

the rear sight ramps were VERY off. one of them was not a consistant angle, and the other actually came back UP....

care and a grinder took care of that.

Its not ready for public viewing yet so no pics, but its WAY WAY better. I can consistently take 12g shells at 25m and pop cans are easier at 50 than the shells are at 25.

Rifle likes Winchester 333/555 bulk, and CCI mini mags. It also likes Velocitors. Mini mags are the most accurate, Velocitors are a very close second, just ahead of the 333/555. Its not as accurate with Federal 525 bulk, Wichester X SS. Stingers are crap for accuracy. Either way tho, it always goes bang.

I did scope it, 3x9x32AO, nice scope for a cheap one. You have to take the rear sight ladder out (mine had a chunk of weld stuck in there, it was SUPER hard to get out and I could not get it back in until I removed it). I used a dovetail to weaver adapter and the rings that came with it. I took it off again once I had my fill of that, as it looks funny with it, and great without.

I want to refinish the stock too, like the awesome one above, well done sir!

I do have one problem with the rifle tho, sometimes the bolt will pull right out when you work the bolt backwards to eject the spent case. any ideas?
 
Hi, JR

Thanks for the kind word.

The sear on your gun must be getting stuck the odd time and not coming back up after you release the trigger - for a number of reasons.

Might be the spring is jammed up or the ball is missing from the sear assembly. Could just be a tight/sticky pin that holds the sear on its pivot. At any rate, you'll have to take the stock down and check the action. Hope you get it sorted out.
 
can I get at the sear with it still in the gun? with like a can of brake cleaner with the straw on it? or with compressed air?

the trigger itself feels quite nice actually.
 
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