Norinco M14 M305 gas cylinder removal issue

DoubleU

DoubleU

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I decided to buy one of these M14 rifles from Norinco as my first battle rifle. Wanted to try it out see how I feel before investing in an M1A or Garand.

Anyways, I picked it up yesterday and its covered in oil from packaging and I know the gas cylinder must be clean. When I took the cap off the damn thing wont slide out because it hits the bottom of the front ironsight (correct me if im wrong im not the most up to date with firearm part language).

Anyways the gas cylinder wont slide out because it hits it. Im wondering if everyone else with an M305 has had the same problem and if you have how the hell do I remove the thing without causing damage to the gun.

If someone could step by step me or link me to a video or pics it would be extremely helpful. Im getting used to the rifle and its parts but I dont want to start twisting things and breaking something before firing a single round down range.

Any help is appreciated.

Norinco-M14S-flash-hider.jpg


It is that bottom thing thats stopping it from sliding out. What can I do?
 
The bottom thing is a bayonet lug and the part that is hitting it is the piston. If you do not want to break the spot welds on flash hider just clean what you can. If memory servers me right there shouldn't be much cosmoline on it. If you want to remove flash hider look on YouTube for how to. Sounds like you bought the shorty, you can change flash hider out for one that has no lug so this is not an issue in the future.
 
On the shortys you have to unscrew the gas plug and then move the gas locking ring to the side a bit.
The gas piston will then be able to be removed.
 
Looks like you've got a shorty (18.5") barrel Norc. The "bottom thing" you're talking about is the bayonet lug.

You may have to cut off the bayonet lug to get the gas cylinder out - I'm not 100% sure about that, but I'm sure that one of the M14/305 gurus will soon chime in with some good advice.

Edit: OD gout and chalkriver beat me to it
 
I dont want to cut anything, I just want to get the piston out so I can clean in there. It seems silly to be there in the first place, there has to be an easy way of getting that piston out without cutting anything. Im guessing that im going to have to use a vice or something and try removing the flash hider, something I really dont want to do.

Correct me if im wrong but the entire cylinder piston seems to be around 4 inches then extends another 4 or so inches. its just too long and it wont fit out the front as it bumps into the lug.

Someone must have done this before or am I just that lucky lol
 
DoubleU said:
I dont want to cut anything, I just want to get the piston out so I can clean in there. It seems silly to be there in the first place, there has to be an easy way of getting that piston out without cutting anything. Im guessing that im going to have to use a vice or something and try removing the flash hider, something I really dont want to do.

Correct me if im wrong but the entire cylinder piston seems to be around 4 inches then extends another 4 or so inches. its just too long and it wont fit out the front as it bumps into the lug.

Someone must have done this before or am I just that lucky lol
Click to expand...

You must remove the castle nut to remove the flash arrester. If it has a spot weld check you tube for removal instructions. Do not cut off the bayonet lug.
 
To get the flash supressor off, since it's welded on - you will destroy it.
You need to grind through the spot weld and then hit with a hammer to remove.
Dont do it unless you already have a new one.

I'd just leave it as is and just clean what you can.
 
No grinding necessary...a good blow or two and then debur. Its only a tack weld.


BadAsMo said:
To get the flash supressor off, since it's welded on - you will destroy it.
You need to grind through the spot weld and then hit with a hammer to remove.
Dont do it unless you already have a new one.

I'd just leave it as is and just clean what you can.
Click to expand...
 
-Take out gas plug
-Unscrew gas lock
-Pull gas cylinder forward and off splines
-Rotate cylinder to the side away from bayo lug
-remove piston
 
Forget about the flash suppressor (flash hider). It does not need to be removed to clean the rifle just unscrew the gas cylinder plug and the rotate it and the gas cylinder lock counter clockwise (I think) you should be able to get to the piston after that.
 
Here is a better way to do it.

This is the gas assembly; Your barrel may be shorter but no matter.

SAM_5090.JPG


Unscrew the Gas cylinder plug lift it as far up as you can and rotate the gas lock counter clockwise;

SAM_5092.JPG


You should be able to get everything out now here is the piston and gas plug with a measuring tape so you can see their length;

SAM_5095.JPG


Good luck and I hope this helps.

Psyex
 
I am curious,
I just bought one of these too (22"), I looked for spot welds on the flash hider and didn't see any leading me to think that there aren't any; my questions would be:
A) where would they weld them?
B) are the welds usually pretty obvious or small and hard to spot?
C) why would they weld them?
D) (I'm sure this is covered in dozens of posts but please indulge my laziness) what is shimming of the gas return system and why would you do this? (mine seems fine and shoots great)

Thanks
 
lupothebutcher said:
I am curious,
I just bought one of these too (22"), I looked for spot welds on the flash hider and didn't see any leading me to think that there aren't any; my questions would be:
A) where would they weld them?
B) are the welds usually pretty obvious or small and hard to spot?
C) why would they weld them?
D) (I'm sure this is covered in dozens of posts but please indulge my laziness) what is shimming of the gas return system and why would you do this? (mine seems fine and shoots great)

Thanks
Click to expand...
A&B) Some of the new shortys are not welded at all. Look for two faint circles on the bottom of the flashider . Sometimes you cant see them .Removing the flashider is pretty easy but you will need castle nut pliers and an allen key that fits the screw on the front sight base. After removing allen screw back off the castle nut towards the muzzle as far as it will go.
Support the barrel Place a brass punch on the bayo lug and hit it hard with a hammer to move the flashider towards the muzzle.
Once the flashider starts moving keep backing out the castle nut to allow the flashider to move forward It may take a few good hits to break the spot welds.
I have removed about 10 like this with no damage to flashider or rifle.

C) I believe I read it was done to allow them to get into the USA bet that all fell through . Not 100% sure .


D) Does the gas locking ring get nice and tight before the 6:00 position when screwing it on ? If it rotates past the 6:00 position a shim can be used to tighten it up. sometimes just removing the gas locking ring , turning it over and putting it back on can fix this as well. You want the gas locking ring nice and tight at the 6:00 position.
The shim goes where the arrow is pointing and you have to remove the flashider to add a shim .Another method is to cut the shim on a 45 degree angle and slip it over the barrel and into position .
M14ShimLocation.jpg
 
PsyEx said:
Here is a better way to do it.

This is the gas assembly; Your barrel may be shorter but no matter.

SAM_5090.JPG


Unscrew the Gas cylinder plug lift it as far up as you can and rotate the gas lock counter clockwise;

SAM_5092.JPG


You should be able to get everything out now here is the piston and gas plug with a measuring tape so you can see their length;

SAM_5095.JPG


Good luck and I hope this helps.

Psyex
Click to expand...

Great pics...this explains it very well and should help OP and me! Should give me the extra quarter inch I need to remove piston.
Thank you.
 
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