Norinco M14 Rebuild & Face Lift From The Ground Up... [Project Complete - 01/23/2012]

Winz said:
Don't take my comment as a slight.

I'm just curious if you've done a baseline with the key remaining parts of the rifle. Namely, you have the receiver, bolt and barrel. You haven't shot it to determine the inherant accuracy potential of the rifle. You probably haven't checked headspace either. Is your barrel indexed correctly?

However, you've started to invest in part A, B, C, etc etc, which may or may not have a huge overall impact to further accurise the rifle.
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To be honest, I'm not building this to be a tack driver, 2-3 MOA is fine with me. If I get better then great. It's going to be my truck/deer gun, as long as it's reliable and durable, I'm content.

That being said, if at the end of my build it needs to be tweaked by a smith, then thats fine too. The point is, with the foundation and with all the new quality parts the potential will be there...

BTW the barrel was indexed properly my line of sight/gas cylinder is true, if it hadn't of been I wouldn't have re-finished it. I'm also assuming the head-spacing is fine due to the fact that no other CanAm shortys had any issues.

Again, this build wasn't about precision, it was about seeing if I could up the overall quality of the rifle and stay well under the price of an M1A. I'm also havin' a blast learning about the rifle and the build in general, it's quite fun...

I guess we'll see at the end what kind of results i get... ;)
 
So am I right that its going to be a park finish? I agree the park finish will look best in a black stock. If you finished it in a deep lustrous blue, it would be killer in a high gloss walnut. Either way the prep work you did put it i:cheers:n a whole other class.
 
Chumlee Bumsnag said:
So am I right that its going to be a park finish? I agree the park finish will look best in a black stock. If you finished it in a deep lustrous blue, it would be killer in a high gloss walnut. Either way the prep work you did put it i:cheers:n a whole other class.
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I have never seen an M14 blued with the exception of some of the really early Norincos. Being a military rifle of origin these came parkerized. Really the only finish that looks best....in my humble opinion :D
 
Updated OP

Finally got that rail modified and it fits, thanks to one of these...

DSC_2990.jpg
 
50calshooter said:
To be honest, I'm not building this to be a tack driver, 2-3 MOA is fine with me. If I get better then great. It's going to be my truck/deer gun, as long as it's reliable and durable, I'm content.

That being said, if at the end of my build it needs to be tweaked by a smith, then thats fine too. The point is, with the foundation and with all the new quality parts the potential will be there...

BTW the barrel was indexed properly my line of sight/gas cylinder is true, if it hadn't of been I wouldn't have re-finished it. I'm also assuming the head-spacing is fine due to the fact that no other CanAm shortys had any issues.

Again, this build wasn't about precision, it was about seeing if I could up the overall quality of the rifle and stay well under the price of an M1A. I'm also havin' a blast learning about the rifle and the build in general, it's quite fun...

I guess we'll see at the end what kind of results i get... ;)
Click to expand...

And that's the fun of this platform... learning and having fun! It's all a work in progress!

Cheers,
Barney
 
Extended Bolt Release

I got this piece today too, It's built by Smith Enterprises and appears to be of high quality. There is one minor problem though, the supplied roll pin is too tight inside the release. Now the spring doesn't have enough strength to fully manipulate the release. It will still work, it just works like a light switch now (on/off) thinking about it now it may be a little easier to operate this way, but we'll see. Worse case I take the pin out and squish the center of it down a bit or it may loosen up over time, for now I'll run with it. Overall I'm happy, it's alot easier to use then the factory piece and it does what it's supposed to do.
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I am surprised no one commented on this yet. The reason why the pin is so tight is that M1A are manufactured with imperial pins and holes. The norincos are manufactured with metric pins and holes.

The oversized mag release you got, made by NEA was designed for metric norincos m14 so that is why you did not have any problems with it. But had you tried to install the sadlak equivalent, you would've had the same problem than with the bolt stop
 
chemo said:
I am surprised no one commented on this yet. The reason why the pin is so tight is that M1A are manufactured with imperial pins and holes. The norincos are manufactured with metric pins and holes.

The oversized mag release you got, made by NEA was designed for metric norincos m14 so that is why you did not have any problems with it. But had you tried to install the sadlak equivalent, you would've had the same problem than with the bolt stop
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With regards to the bolt release, the supplied pin actually went into the receiver nice and snug, it was the release button itself that was too tight and is creating too much friction.

The mag release I got from Pro Mag which I thought was actually SEI, is where you are correct. The supplied roll pin was too small for the trigger group holes. I still made it work though and it seems fine.
 
Sadlak makes a mag release with the chinese sized hole/roll pin. You must specify when ordering.
Promag's version is to usgi spec and using one in a chinese trigger group can lead to function problems.

As for bolt stops, when installing SEI bolt stops, some fine valve lapping compound is generally required to mate pin with bolt stop. The bolt stop should rotate freely on the pin.
 
I'm enjoying the updates. Keep'em coming. Anyone know how hot the Ultimak rail gets when blasting away. Will you cook your hand by accident? I'm trying to decide if I should drop the cash for one.
 
Hope you took some pics of modification on the ultimak , and I assume the gap is now the same along the length of the rail
I take it by your pic the emery cloth idea was too slow ??

Thanks
 
I've been away hunting and have had a chance to review this entire thread and I think it's pretty cool that you are taking the time to walk us all thru your adventure... Fun stuff ain't it :D
 
chalkriver said:
Hope you took some pics of modification on the ultimak , and I assume the gap is now the same along the length of the rail
I take it by your pic the emery cloth idea was too slow ??

Thanks
Click to expand...

I did just for you, ;) I'm updating the OP, go to page 1.

The emery cloth was painfully slow I was surprised at how much metal had to be removed. The gap is now fairly consistent and looks proper.
 
Thanks for the pics and tips on adjusting the fit of my ultimak on my shorty .
I bought a drill attachment similar to yours and it worked great .The rail fits much better now thanks :)
 
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