Norinco m14 removing op rod

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Brentn

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This is pissing me off, I cannot for the life of me remove the op rod from the reciever! I have the rifle stripped, the recoil spring/rod removed with only the bolt and op rod left in the reciever.

It says in the manual that you need to move the rod to the rear to the disassembly notch and pull it up and away from the reviever. They show no picture of this in the manual (the manual is actually pretty decent except for the details on stripping) so I looked at it carefully and near the rear there is a recess in the reviever for the guide lug on the rod to be removed. But trying to align it there seems useless because when I pull up or away it just WON'T COME OUT!!!!!!
lmao, ####.. If someone has a trick for this, let me know, I mean I'm not an idiot I have stripped many firearms I just don't understand what I'm missing here.

thank you!
 
with the receiver upside down, try to move op rod guide about 1/2" forward
towards the muzzle while pressing it slightly down. There is a spot
about 1/4-1/2" from the back where the op guide will drop down slightly,
this is where it will come off...
 
Okay here goes:

Lay the barreled receiver down on it's left side - op rod handle pointing skyward. I like to use my right hand to 'cup' over the rear sight ass'y.

Locate along the op rod track , just below the rear sight ass'y, a small recess along the op rod track where the op rod 'tab' will interface and allow itself to jockey out of the track.

Didja locate this little cutout recess YET ?

When I owned at least 3 Sproingfield M1A's... sometimes the op rod tab was a little too large for the cast receiver's cutout and I would employ a flat bladed screwdriver (I taped it with masking tape, protect the nice M1A finish) and gently pried the op rod out of the track while locating the op rod tab over that op rod track recess. :evil:

Get back to us and ensure that yer #### did not fall off ! :p
 
Well after fiddling with it for about an hour, finally it just magically popped out. I instantly popped it back in to try it again and it took another 10 minutes of fiddling before I got it out again. PITA
I appreciate the links.

I did however dismantle the entire rifle, including the trigger assembly, washed all parts, and re-assembled using grease and lube. I have read that the flash suppressor is supposed to be welded on with this sporter model as it is a new import (2007). However, I see no welds, only a small pin in the front sight that looks like its lodged into the grooves of one of the grooves on the castle nut... Interesting..
 
look at the rear of the flash hider assembly, underneath just behind the flat that would be the bayonet lug. Use lotsa bright light and look very closely.... you will see the welds, just barely in the finish.... the chinese manufacturer has done a very good, quality job of hiding these welds ;) but they are generally there.
At the dec 2nd clinic i hosted, TooTall's rifle had the holes in the rear of the flashider but the welds had not been applied.
Lot's of info in the stickies on flashider removal.... should you feel the need to remove it. If your gas lock tightens up as described in the stickies and FAQ's there is no reason to remove the flashider.
 
To tell you the truth I don't really care to remove it, however I still cannot see the welds.
Right behind the bayonet lug the flash hider assembly extends another cm and then you can see the lip of it in which it is overtop the barrel. There are three rectangular cut outs on the barrel the run underneath the flash hider, two on the underside parallel with the edges of the lug, and one directly on the top of the barrel. This area in which the flash hider assembly connects with the barrel there are no markings or welds of any kind... If only I could remove the castle nut I could check to see if I'm out for lunch here.
The rifle is marked 2007 on one side of the reciever, and the following is marked on the other side in this order from top to bottom.

M14s .308
CJA SFLD MICH
Norinco Made in china 00645x
 
You can't see the welds because they are inside between the suppressor
end facing the receiver and the barrel. Two welds, spaced about 30 deg.

To get the suppressor, I used a masonary hammer (8" oval shape) and
hit it with 5 lb regular hammer. Make sure you release the nut,
hit it, release some more, repeat until it comes off.
Then you can clean the welds before putting it back on.

You have to get the suppressor off if you want to unitize your
gas assembly.
 
Actually, you don't have to get the flashider off to shim or peen your gas assembly into proper alignment. You can cut the shims into a "C" ... just ask 45 & Griz about that one [;{)

IMHO, unitising the gas assembly is a complicated solution to a non-existant problem. Many of these rifles will shoot consistently under 2" without unitising, so why bother??

If you want a CONSISTENT Sub-moa TARGET ONLY M-14 , instead of unitising your gas assembly, buy a Remington 700 or Savage 110 instead, and take a few weeks vacation in Mexico with the money you saved.

Of course, as with any opinion expressed on the internet,
YPMMV
LAZ 1
 
Unitizing cost me a six-pack of heineken. I had two, my buddy the tig welder had the rest. I don't think that would pay for a trip to mexico.

My point: Why not? Of course it won't be as accurate as a bolt gun, but it's a fun project. I barely shoot mine because it's always in pieces with something being done to it, and I'm having a wonderful time. It's a great way to learn the tricks of the trade before jumping into a precision rifle build, as I plan to do in the future.

p.s. my flash suppressor has no welding at all.
 
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