Norinco M305 safety issue

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The safetry on my new M14 from Norinco is so hard to engage that I have to use a nail to pull it back to safe mode. Pushing it out to fire is not an issue, just slight finger pressure required. I lubed the whole trigger assembly hoping this would help but just a bit better. I think there is an issue with the spring or parts that need to be filed down. Anyone else had this issue, and what is the best fix?:mad:
 
the BEST fix is to WORK IT back and forth - maybe out of the stock- for GOD'S SAKE , LEAVE THAT FILE ALONE- far too many newbies figure they can do "better" than the factory, and take a file to the safety, hammer hooks or trigger-all these have sensitive surfaces and can only be worked by an armorer- when you apply the file , you change the angle of the surface, which can result in a unsafe situation even with the SAFETY ON-granted, the norinco is crude, and could use some finishing, but once it wears in, you should be fine- if you try to tackle this one yourself, you'll probably end up with a broken or non-functioning safety at least, and maybe have to replace the trigger assembly at worst- not even most smiths will touch it- you have to have GARAND or m14 experience to fool around in there
 
trigger group + couch + beer + hockey game = smooth trigger and/or smooth safety :D

In order to avoid being flamed, I will not suggest which hockey game to watch...but I know Hungry is partial to the TML. There is always the All-star game coming up.
 
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This is what I did.... Take the trigger group out an put it in a vice with the trigger guard facing upwards , leave the trigger guard unlatched and tape it out of the way..Take a screwdriver and put it through the hole in the safety lever and then grab the screwdriver with one hand on either side of the safety lever and work it back and forth a couple gazillion times.
This method is alot easier on your fingers ....
Mine loosened up quite abit by doing this.
 
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but THAT would involve KEEPING your finger OUT the TRIGGER GUARD-that's blasphemous-
 
Turf said:
A lot of new M14 owners don't know that the hammer must be cocked to engage the safety. It's really really f**kin' hard otherwise:p
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that might be fine for a NORINCO but i've seen gomers BREAK the safety on the real thing by NOT COCKING IT FIRST- there's even a LEAFLET with that blonde on it that tells you to #### IT FIRST- some of them ARE that strong-it's here somewhere on the net- same deal goes for the garand
 
t-star said:
that might be fine for a NORINCO but i've seen gomers BREAK the safety on the real thing by NOT COCKING IT FIRST- there's even a LEAFLET with that blonde on it that tells you to #### IT FIRST- some of them ARE that strong-it's here somewhere on the net- same deal goes for the garand
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I remember a thread here or on m14forum.com several (6-7) years ago where one guy actually took a hammer to the safety on an M1A. Destroyed the trigger mech in the process and then #####ed because his replacement seem to have the same problem as the original:D

He finally clued in after getting dumped on for not cocking the hammer first. Turns out he hadn't bothered reading his manual.:eek:
 
TX guys, looks like this is quite normal for an M14. Kind of a pain though. Will work on it as suggested. BTY, I do #### the hammer before but dont feel warm and fuzzy playing around with allot of pressure near the trigger with a cocked gun, especialy when hunting with a full clip, and after the first shot. At the range I make double sure the clip is out and the gun is emty. Sounds basic, but I also check that the guy next to me with a new M14 does the same thing. In the woods, who knows?
 
Get familiar with it NOW,not when your in the field or at the range.
If your that skitish about it remove it from the stock and play with it right in your hand while watching TV.
Close the trigger guard,#### it,the put the safety on,snap it off.
Repeat till you tired of it then do it again tomorrow.
Don't forget to oil it while your doing so.
It's an improved design from 70 year's ago,it ain't rocket science.
 
"turns out he hadn't bothered to read the manual first"- that looks like about 85% of the treads posted here since can-am started shipping the shorties- i'm just waiting for SOMEBODY to do a complete bolt strip and can't get it back together- and that's in the manual too
 
I thought I would bring this thread back to life for some more serious comments.
It's like this, been stroking the thing for many months as suggested in the previous responses. Fingers are worn out and, both left and right hands, are mighty strong right now.
Should I be using Pumace powder to grind it down? I give up!
Just dont work for me. Too much restriction. Then again, some folks like it that way I guess?:dancingbanana:

Just looking for a click forwards and a click backwards without pinching the scabs off of my fingers :)
 
zuke said:
Get familiar with it NOW,not when your in the field or at the range.
If your that skitish about it remove it from the stock and play with it right in your hand while watching TV.
Close the trigger guard,#### it,the put the safety on,snap it off.
Repeat till you tired of it then do it again tomorrow.
Don't forget to oil it while your doing so.
It's an improved design from 70 year's ago,it ain't rocket science.
Click to expand...

Like Sgmacken said, I'm partial to the TML or Leafs only because I'm not paying attention until I hear, "He shoots, he scores!" Then I look up to see that the Leafs got scored on WITH the man -advantage during the power play (or something like that).

I get all of my marking (I'm a high school teacher :D ) done during the Leafs games! ;)

:cheers:

Barney
 
There are 2 points in the trigger group to look at when it comes to a very stiff safety when the "watch a hockey game or the movie Full Metal Jacket", fails to give results.
Both involve complete trigger group break down.
A VERY light polish to the contact points on the safety can be done but I don't recommend this as a do it yourself procedure without lots of experience and understanding of the platform.

2nd is a bit easier and involves measuring the hammer spring and correcting for optimal length with 90 degree faced ends

I have seen longish hammer springs cause excessive effort to actuate the safety.

Bottom line, don't guess and try to solve the problem. If you MUST work on your own trigger group, do not do so without your own copy of the 30 cal service rifle shop manual by J. Kuhnhaussen.

I do have a gas assembly unitizing and match trigger job package on right now for 155.00 return shipped. Safety adjustment, if needed , is included ;)
 
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