Norinco M305 wood stocks

Turf

Turf

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I know it is kind of pointless to glass bed a "chu wood" stock but just out of curiosity has anyone tried to fiberglass the whole stock then refinish it with a camo job? The only reason I ask is because I have several lying around gathering dust and it seems it might be a good winter project if it is feaseable.

Any thoughts, aside from using them for firewood?
 
sounds like alot of work just to paint....the only experiment i wouldnt mind trying on one is making a folding stock (and then if i got it to work buy a better stock and put the skills to work)
 
platnumbob said:
sounds like alot of work just to paint....the only experiment i wouldnt mind trying on one is making a folding stock (and then if i got it to work buy a better stock and put the skills to work)
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Yeah you're probably right but no sense in letting a stock go to waste if you can strengthen it and give it better durability at a reaonable cost. I'm already working on a retractable M14 wood stock and a folding M4 type on a USGI fibreglass. Just need something else to help keep me busy.:)
 
Turf said:
I know, but I wouldn't really burn them anyway. Too much value for experimentation purposes:)
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Exactly. I stripped, sanded, sealed and painted mine for the experience. I didn't want to make a mistake with a "real" stock.
 
ya, its definitly a good tool to practice on i bet, i may try camo patterns on mine for fun, but im not actually going to use it so i wont bother reinforcing it. to each his own tho, good luck turf, tells us how it turns out. tells us about your retractible stock your working on :)
 
I used mine to practise painting as well, it turned out not too bad, for my first go. You could always paint each of the stocks up differently so you have one for every environment.
m14stock.jpg
 
Great job Boris, that is 110% better than my first paint job:( What paint did you use on the op-rod? Same as the stock?

Platnumbob. I chopped a Norinco M305 stock to accept a Sage retractable butt stock for the Remi 870. There is another member here from Manitoba I believe, that just did the same thing. He also put a King Arms RAS on it. Looks real nice. I was going to do the mod on a USGI fibreglass but since I only had one of them left, I decided to make another folder with it.

For the retractable Norinco stock I had to carve out a channel on either side of the stock so the butt stock could slide forward on its rails. Not too hard of a job as the wood is so soft. Tomorrow I'll finish sanding and smoothing out the channels before staining and sealing it. Then it'll be sand, oil, sand, oil etc........etc until I get the desired lustre. I also have a bottom rail and foregrip that has to be fitted and I'll top it off with a walnut handguard. Before I start work on it in the morning I'll take some pics of what I have done so far and post them on this thread.
 
Speaking of experimenting, I bucked my GI glass stock in half last weekend and rebated it for the TSA adaptor. Now to epoxy it up and mount the adaptor permanently.
 
Chu wood isn't _that_ bad. With my DIY folder and a quick epoxy bedding job I can consistanly shoot 1.5"-100m groups using the Hirtenberger surplus.
 
Turf said:
Great job Boris, that is 110% better than my first paint job:( What paint did you use on the op-rod? Same as the stock?
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Thanks,
Yes I used the same paint on the op rod as the stock. Before painting any of the parts (stock or rod) I cleaned them with rubbing alcohol, the paint used is Krylon spray paint.
 
OK, here are a couple of pics of what I have done so far. Won't get any sanding done for a couple of days as I sliced open my left index finger with a channel gouge:eek:

M14870sageLargeWebview.jpg


m14870sage2LargeWebview.jpg
 
Turf said:
I sliced open my left index finger with a channel gouge:eek:


Nice job Turf.
If you whant to keep it safe and make a nice on the channel, try using a router. If set up properly, the grooves will be exactly the same on each side. Plus it will take you less time to do.
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Sure I could use a router, but then I wouldn't be leaving my mark in the wood, just a machine's. When I see the imperfections that I make myself with hand tools, I can work with the wood to correct it. You make a mistake with a router and its off to a new stock.:mad:

Don't get me wrong. A variable speed dremel with a flex shaft is one of my best friends. But when working with wood I prefer chisels for the initial work unless I am doing inletting. Working with fibreglass or plastics stocks is a different story.
 
if i do end up getting a M305 i was wondering how hard it is to seperate the reciever/barrel components from the wood stock inoder for me to re-stain the stock? how difficult is it to dissassemble and put back together without ruining the gun or making it less accurate?
 
If you get an M305 all you do is remove the trigger assembly and the rifle breaks down into its 3 main groups. The stock group, the reciever/barrel group and the trigger group. You can then refinish the stock without harm to the other 2 groups.

You might want to check some of the stickies for info on this or go to springfieldarmory.com and download the manual for the M1A.
 
Like Turf I used the dremel with the drum sander to finish the grooves after initially putting them in place with a gouge. The wood is very soft, I would like to find a large block to carve. Found my Sage at a gunshow and paid $140.00 for it. But I cut the angled face plate off with the dremel and inset it back about an inch so I would have more wood to connect to and weld the plate 90 degrees to the groove lines. I also thinned out the forearms and lined it with fiberglass and an aluminum bar on the bottom so if I mount a lower picatinney rail there will be something to attach it to. This past weekend I bedded the receiver and hopefully will shoot it this weekend. Pictures will follow once I get my digital back from my son...Bob
 
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