Norinco NP-34 re-cocking issues

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Xippper

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I am need of advice / guidance regarding an issue I am experiencing...

I have a brand new Norinco NP-34 9 mm which I have taken to the range 3 times so far. The first time, everything worked great using 115 grain Remington UMC ammo.

The second time at the range, using Winchester White Box ammo 115grain, the results were different . With each shot, the slide would cycle back, re-#### the hammer briefly, and then cycle forward... But the hammer doesn't stay cocked. It follows the slide forward. The end result being that I have to shoot the next round in DA mode as opposed to SA mode.

The third time at the range was the same as the second time except back with 115 grain Remington UMC ammo - I suspected that the Winchester White Box ammo 115grain might be the culprit, but the problem persisted with the 115 grain Remington UMC ammo.

I have since thoroughly cleaned and lubed the pistol.

The thing is... If I pull the slide back all the way and then somewhat gently let it cycle back forward it stays cocked. However, if I pull the slide back all the way and then let go so it cycles forward hard under the full power of the recoil spring, the hammer does not stay cocked.

I tried researching the issue but have come back empty. Any help or guidance would be appreciated.

Dave
 
I had mine apart today, no issues like yours.

Are you able to strip it beyond a field strip and see if any part is damaged?
 
Sounds like the disconnect or sear is either damaged/broken or out of spec.
The gun is not safe to fire until you get it fixed.
 
The most likely thing is that the disconnector isn't functioning. Try a field strip and flush and work the action including the disconnector with a strong solvent like brake cleaner. Wear nitrile gloves for this because it'll be dripping and messy and the stuff isn't good for your skin or internal organs.

While it's soaked down work the action and work the disconnector as if it the slide were in place and firing the gun. It may just be still gummed up and sticky from the shipping grease. The brake cleaner is a great solvent but it leaves the metal with no protection. So follow up with a fairly generous lubrication and blow the excess out of the parts you can't blot off with a paper towel.

If that doesn't do the trick then it's gunsmith time for you. Or warranty if the store will take that on. There's no official warranty for Norinco guns as far as I know.

There's likely lots of videos covering detail stripping for Sigs that you can use to learn how to get in deeply enough to work on the stuff you need to reach.
 
BCRider said:
The most likely thing is that the disconnector isn't functioning. Try a field strip and flush and work the action including the disconnector with a strong solvent like brake cleaner. Wear nitrile gloves for this because it'll be dripping and messy and the stuff isn't good for your skin or internal organs.

While it's soaked down work the action and work the disconnector as if it the slide were in place and firing the gun. It may just be still gummed up and sticky from the shipping grease. The brake cleaner is a great solvent but it leaves the metal with no protection. So follow up with a fairly generous lubrication and blow the excess out of the parts you can't blot off with a paper towel.

If that doesn't do the trick then it's gunsmith time for you. Or warranty if the store will take that on. There's no official warranty for Norinco guns as far as I know.

There's likely lots of videos covering detail stripping for Sigs that you can use to learn how to get in deeply enough to work on the stuff you need to reach.
Click to expand...


I've seen references to the 'disconnector' in various forums... but I haven't seen a parts diagram for the NP34 which specifically identifies any part called a 'disconnector'.

So... which part is it?
 
I've seen references to the 'disconnector' in various forums... but I haven't seen a parts diagram for the NP34 which specifically identifies any part called a 'disconnector'.

So... which part is it?
Click to expand...

You are correct, there is no disconnector similar to other pistols. The trigger bar would be the equivalent for this pistol. This is more of a clock-work style of mechanism with sequential cams and levers. The manual explains it reasonably well.
 
twoicebergs said:
You are correct, there is no disconnector similar to other pistols. The trigger bar would be the equivalent for this pistol. This is more of a clock-work style of mechanism with sequential cams and levers. The manual explains it reasonably well.
Click to expand...

I've never owned or worked on a Sig so I went off and looked at a video of someone changing out a sig trigger. 'Bergs is right and the trigger bar and trigger bar spring found under the right hand side of the grips is what performs the disconnector function based on how it interfaces with the sear and the slide. If you remove the grips and work the gun you should be able to see this all clearly. To see the operation you'll want to #### the hammer then dry fire it and while holding the trigger back rack the slide slowly back and forth. As you do this you'll see the trigger bar fingers at the rear of the bar and the top of the bar work this way and that. After racking the slide slowly release the trigger until you see and feel a little "click". That's the point where the trigger bar will snap up into place to finish the disconnect and reconnect action that occurs with each cycle.

Removing the grips and inspecting the action through this window in the frame is also a great spot to check for anything that is restricting the movement and not letting the bar move correctly. And to ensure that the hair spring under that side of the grips is operating correctly.
 
I've followed the advise in this thread and removed the grips to see the action... I don't think it's the trigger bar / disconnector function. It appears to be insufficient contact between the sear and the hammer when the hammer is cocked. It holds but just barely. If I apply a little force to the hammer, it drops. Likewise, when the pistol is cycling, the force of the recoil spring cycling the slide forward is sufficient to break the hold and de-#### the hammer.

I suspect either the hammer or sear are slightly out of spec. Either way, I think a little stoning in one specific area should solve the problem... I hope. I am probably going to get a gunsmith to do this as I am not comfortable disassembling beyond the field strip level.
 
Last edited:
insufficient contact between the sear and the hammer when the hammer is cocked
Click to expand...

That would do it. Usually the spring would move and hold the sear on the hammer notch. Typical trigger jobs would remove some of the positive or overlock at this location. If the initial grind was flat, uneven or slightly negative, it could easily slip off the engagement point when racking the slide as in recoil. But in this case it should be protected from firing due to the firing pin block, otherwise your pistol might have fired like it was full-auto.
 
Update...

I took the NP-34 to my local gunsmith and it turns out I was correct with my assessment that there was insufficient contact between the hammer and sear when cocked. Quickly fixed by my gunsmith and all is good now!

Dave
 
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